My Little Pioneer

My Little Pioneer, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Yesterday, May 25th, was a special day for me as it is my birthday and my adopted Slava. In Serbia, this date is the famous birthday of the ex Yugoslavian leader, Josip Broz, “Tito.” I’ve adopted him as my Slava patron. He was an athiest, as I am, so I guess it is appropriate to have him. I don’t agree with much of what Tito did and I don’t respect him as a hero, but it is a funny way to connect to Serbia and I love the idea of “the slava.” It is also funny that I have the same birthday as Sveti Tito.

For my birthday, I had Ocean wear the Pioneers of Yugoslavia uniform. This was a Communist propaganda movement that all children 7 and over participated. Ocean is wearing a “titovka” hat with the Yugoslav Communist Red Star and matching scarf.

My friend mentioned the pledge the kids took and it is underneath in English.

Today, as I become a Pioneer, I give my Pioneer’s word of honour -That I shall study and work diligently,respect parents and my seniors, and be a loyal and honest comrade and friend. That I shall love our homeland, self-managed socialist federal republic of Yugoslavia. That I shall spread brotherhood and unity and the principles for which comrade Tito fought.And that I shall value all peoples of the world who respect freedom and peace!

I had a great day with my family. We had a “brownie” birthday cake. Later on I attended our school’s prom, which was an elegant dinner at the Madera Restaurant downtown. It was a special day.

Srećan Rođendan and Happy Slava!

Book Review: “Constantine’s Crossing” by Dejan Stojiljković

The Serbian publishing company Geo Poetika with help from the Serbian government, has translated a series of novels of Serbia authors to English. This is the second one I have read, the first being Lake Como.

This book has a lot going for it, as it is right up my alley. It is a historical fiction novel, set in World War II, in the southern Serbian city of Niš. It has evil Nazis, Chetniks, Partizans, mixed in with a search for the Emperor Constantine-s weapon collection in the tunnels underneath the city. It also has vampires. With all of these elements that I love, I really enjoyed the book. It was a fast read and I could’t put it down.

I wish Stojiljković would have taken the story deeper, however. It is a great concept, but at 265 pages, it is hard to develop the characters fully and get into all of the cool history surrounding the early Christians, Germanic Tribes, and the life of Constantine. I don’t think the author is a scholar and perhaps this book would have been more to my liking if it was written by Umberto Eco or even Dan Brown. I could have used some more background on things like the runic alphabets, the Nazi’s work in the occult, and the life of Constantine. I could have used another 300-400 pages!

It was a great concept however and a perfect book for the airplane. Thanks again to Geo poetika for featuring these Serbian writers for the outside world to read. I highly recommend this book and it makes me want to explore some of the ruins around Niš. Also, the myth of the vampire started in Serbia and I just read of the course at the University of Wisconsin, by a Serbian professor, that explores this connection.

 

Elections Today

Update: From the B92 web site, the live results page from 1:00 AM. There will be another election between Tadic and Nikolic, both who got around 25% of the vote. I’ll be curious to see what percentage of eligible citizens voted. There were no surprises. In the parliament elections, Nikolic’s party has a slight advantage with 73 seats to Tadic’s 68. There will be a long negotiation to form coalitions to get a majority. I can’t remember what the “magic number” of seats is to form a government.

Predsednički izbori – Tadić i Nikolić u drugom krugu (82,9% pregledanih, 61,14% izlaznost): Stanković: 6.6%, Glišić: 2.7%, Tadić: 25.4%, Koštunica: 7.2%, Dragišić: 1.7%, J. Šešelj: 3.9%, Zukorlić: 1.3%, Grujičić: 0.7%, Dačić: 14.2%, Jovanović: 5.2%, Pastor: 1.7%, Nikolić: 25.2%,

Parlamentarni izbori – SNS ispred DS (78,8% obrađenih, 61,08% izlaznost): SNS: 73 (24.1%), DS: 68 (22.4%), SPS: 44 (14.4%), DSS: 21 (6.9%), LDP: 20 (6.6%), URS: 16 (5.3%), SVM: 5 (1.9%), SDA: 1 (0.6%), Sve zajedno: 1 (0.5%), NOPO: 1 (0.6%)

by B92 12:43 AM

Below is a nice article from The Economist about today’s elections. I am predicting that there will be no clear winner and the top two, Tadic and Nikolic will be running against each other. With my Serbian friends, as the article says, they are not happy with how things are going here, but they don’t think Nikolic is the answer. It should be interesting, especially if there is heavy voter turnout.

Serbia’s elections Cliffhangers The outcomes of Serbia’s many elections on May 6th are unpredictable

ON MAY 6th the French vote for a president and the Greeks and Armenians for parliaments. For Serbs it is the big bang: they will vote for a president, a parliament, in local elections and, in the province of Vojvodina, for a regional assembly. In Kosovo too, many Serbs may vote, but this is contentious and could lead to violence.

Kosovo aside, the Serbian elections are a cliffhanger. Polls give President Boris Tadic of the Democratic Party (DS) just under 36% and Tomislav Nikolic, leader of the Serbian Progressive Party (SNS), just over 36%. A run-off between the two a fortnight later is likely, and the result will be influenced by the parliamentary election. Mr Tadic sells himself as pro-European and pro-reform. But he looks tired and the economy is in dire straits. One poll finds 80% of Serbs are dissatisfied and angry, 77% feel helpless and hopeless and 60% are just depressed. The latest score for the SNS and its allies is 33.5%, with the DS and its allies trailing on 28.3%. Yet it may be easier for the DS than for the SNS to find other coalition partners.

The kingmaker is likely to be Ivica Dacic, leader of the Socialist Party, which with its allies is polling at 11.8%. Mr Dacic is the artful dodger of Serbian politics. In the war years he was a spokesman for Slobodan Milosevic. When Mr Milosevic fell in 2000 and was put on trial for war crimes, Mr Dacic stepped in to save the party. Now he is interior minister and a master of populist bluster. When Serbs were arrested in Kosovo, some with election materials, he arrested some Kosovo Albanians, boasting that this was a reciprocal measure. Mr Dacic is likely to stick with the DS, but he could choose to switch horses to the SNS if they make him a better offer (such as the premiership). The SNS was started in 2008 when Mr Nikolic and Aleksandar Vucic led their followers out of the extreme nationalist Radical Party, whose leader is also on trial for war crimes.

Any new government will have a hard time.Unemployment is 24% and as much as 40% of output is in the black economy. In February, because many workers went unpaid, more Serbs got pensions than salaries. Yet foreign companies are still investing in Serbia, not least Fiat, an Italian car maker that just opened a €1 billion ($1.3 billion) factory. With little time left, it is still uncertain what will happen in Kosovo. The Serbian authorities have stepped back from trying to organise local elections for Serbs there, though two municipalities in the Serb-controlled north may still hold them. If Serbia chooses to hold presidential and parliamentary elections in the north there is little the Kosovo government can do. But if it tries to hold them in the south, where most of Kosovo’s Serbs live, there could be bloodshed. One solution may be for both sides to accept a figleaf of cover for elections from the Organisation for Security and Co-operation in Europe. But NATO is taking no chances, deploying 700 more peacekeepers to deter violence. Until Serbia has a new government the European Union-sponsored dialogue between Kosovo and Serbia will remain in abeyance. Edita Tahiri, Kosovo’s chief negotiator, says she is not worried if there is a change in government in Belgrade. The talks will resume and Serbia will have to carry on making compromises, just as Kosovo does, because they have “no choice but to continue being pro-European.”

When There Were No Serbians in Serbia

 

Owen and Ollie at the Baths, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Earlier this month we visited the ancient ruins of the city of Viminacium. (Viminacijum in Serbian) The city was founded by the Romans around the birth of Jesus. Viminacium on the Danube River, close to the modern Serbian town of Kostolac, about an hour’s drive from Belgrade.

Viminacium in its peak had an estimated 40,000+ citizens. Many of the famous Roman Emperors visited or stayed in the city. Several battles in the many civil wars of the Roman Empire occurred there as well. The Romans established the city first as a military garrison while conquering the local Illyrians (Dacians) and later a market town grew up around the barracks.

We arrived late in the day and the site was closing. We still drove around to the excavated sites and got a sense of the place. Most of the city is not excavated, only 3 major sites, which are covered (see above). Researchers have found 35,000 graves, coins, vases, etc. The city was eventually overrun and destroyed by the man himself, Attila the Hun in 441 C.E. The Avars (ancient Turkish tribe) finished the job in 582, paving the way for the Slavs (Serbs) to come in an eventually settle the area.

It was amazing to think about all that went on there, such a long time ago! I hope they develop the project further, there is probably a lot that needs to be excavated and researched. The structures uncovered are not that impressive, no coliseums, statues of Caesar, etc, but I think they could make an excellent museum and educational center with the pieces they found. They had several books for sale in the visitor center with photos and information about the site, but no actual pieces displayed. We also so some chariots which would have been cool for the kids to ride in. I just don’t see the funds available to further carry on the work.

Perhaps the coal company operating next to the site can support excavation. There is a massive open pit coal mine there as well as a coal-burning electricity generation plant. It would be nice to tax those polluters and put the proceeds towards Viminacium. We will probably head back to the site and read some more about it.

Nadia in front of the Drmno Coal Mine

On a side note, the town of Stari Kostolac (Old Kostolac), close to the site, is a Roma or Gypsy village. We were driving back from the site through their and Nadia was freaking out when she saw the run-down settlement and only gypsies. I would also like to go back and explore the town a bit more. A friend told us the village used to be Serbian, but was abandoned and the Roma moved in.

It makes a good day trip from Belgrade.

Happy Easter – Srećan Uskrs

 

Egg Tapping, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

We enjoyed the traditional Serbian Easter traditions last week during the long weekend. The Orthodox Easter is celebrated a week after the Catholic Easter. Above, is a video of the “egg-tapping” competition. This tradition started in Eastern Europe in the 1300′s and has now spread across the world. The egg is the pagan symbol of the renewal of spring and life. I never saw egg-tapping in Michigan. The champion in the video for this year was Ocean! Her egg didn’t crack. Late in the competition, Aca’s mother Mira gave Ocean a wooden egg, which is against the rules.

We had a second round of egg-tapping with our Romanian friends later in the day. Claudiu was explaining that while breaking the egg, they have the tradition phrase, “Christ Has Risen” which is answered by “Indeed, He has.”

We also liked coloring the eggs in the traditional Serbian method. We dyed the eggs in onion skins and it give it a deep red color. We bought some eggs with writing and Easter designs on them from the market, and when dyed, as you can see, they markings appear lighter. I don’t know what the acronym, XBBB means? It is in the Cyrillic script, and in Latin it would be HVVV. I know the “H” means Hristos (christ), but I don’t know what the three Vs mean. Any help from my Serbian readers? I also used some Easter Egg decorations from the company, www.jaje.rs. They have some great designs from based on ornaments from Serbian Medieval churches and monasteries. Very cool!

Serbian Radical Party Campaigning in Senjak

 


Saturday morning we were at the Green Market in Senjak and we heard the patriotic music and saw the banners and tables of the Serbian Radical Party. The Serbian Radicals are led by the man pictured in the banner, Vojislav Šešelj. Šešelj is currently at the Hague under trial for war crimes since 2003. He is one of the founders of the party, which started just before the break-up of Yugoslavia.

The Radicals are a very successful, far right party in Serbia. In the last elections in 2008, they won almost 30% of the seats in the National Assembly, and their candidate in 2008, Tomislav Nikolić, barely lost to Boris Tadić, winning 48% of the vote.

I think for this election, Šešelj’s wife is running in his stead, as Nikolić formed his own party. They also have a candidate in the mayor race, a young man named Nemenja Šarović. They were handing out literature and in the song I heard, was praising Šešelj for his patriotism.

The Radicals run on a platform of avoiding integration to the EU and instead, seeking closer ties with Russia. They are also against globalization and are looking for the Serbian populations in neighboring countries to join Serbia proper. In perusing the literature, they were selling professor Šešelj’s books (he is a former professor at the University of Michigan) and showing evidence of how EU membership has not been beneficial to the small, Eastern European countries who already joined.

I am not sure how they will do in the election next month. As a neutral observer, I am not sure the name “radical” is the best name to have for a political party. Sure they are radical, or revolutionary in not wanting to join the EU, but in English, the word also means “extreme” and I am not sure if that is the best way to get independent or “swing” voters. I also don’t know what effect having their leader at the International Criminal Tribunal for the Former Yugoslavia for the past 9 years has on the party. I don’t think there is an equivalent in US politics, as the Tea Party doesn’t have such different views from the mainstream Republican party. It will be interesting to see how the Radicals do in this election.

Although I cannot vote because I am not Serbian, I am curious to see how my views match up with various parties in the election. Maybe my Serbian readers can help me match which party most resonates with my opinions.

Bill’s Serbian Political Platform

1) Of course as an educator, I believe education of young people should be the number one priority of a nation. I would set the goal for the best-trained teachers and best facilities of any schools in the Balkans. This would go from nursery schools to universities.

2) Erase the labyrinth of laws that inhibit starting and ending businesses in Serbia.

3) Integration Question – This is a hot topic here. I propose re-forming Yugoslavia first, before trying to get into the EU. Seek first strong economic ties and then eventually a reforming of the country of Yugoslavia. The similarities between the countries is a natural fit and 22 million makes it a strong country in Europe that would have some clout on the world stage.

4) Kosovo – Cut Serbia’s losses and go for as much of the north as possible, even going as far as a population exchange. The southern half of Kosovo would go to Albania (which would join my re-created Yugoslavia eventually). Kosovo is too small and too disorganized to be an independent country. Of course this would be predicated on protection of Serbian monasteries and Field of the BlackBirds as heritage sites.

5) Other economic issues – The pensions are a big burden on the Serb government, but a committment that needs to be completed. Try to cut corruption and tax the super rich. Income disparities and too much power in the hands of a few are bad for the nation. This is also a problem in the US. I am not sure how to lower the unemployment rate and give hope for young people graduating universities. This is a tough problem. I would lower the sales tax (VAT) and raise income and property taxes.

That is about all I can think of for now. I don’t mean to offend anyone and am writing this post in the spirit of the exchange of ideas. I don’t have enough time to really feel strongly about politics, but I find it an interesting way to understand Serbia, my adopted home for now.

Spring in Dedinje

 

017, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

On my run yesterday afternoon, I stopped and took this photo. There are many of these huge, old “villas” The term villa originally meant Roman upper class country homes, but the term has evolved to mean a variety of styles, but usually large residences.

This particular villa is named “Milica” a common Serbian woman’s name. The setting sun, flowering apple trees, and the fresh green leaves, make this particular scene nice.

Below I snapped a photo of a couple of Roma guys driving through the neighborhood. They drive around the city in these makeshift vehicles collecting recyclable materials from the garbage bins.

April U Beogradu (Belgrade In April)

I just can’t help myself with this post. (I’ll work on the code to embed the video.)The song above is from the “John Travolta” of the Yugoslavian/Serbian world, Zdravko Čolić, and the song is about the beautiful weather in the month of April in Belgrade and renewal of one’s soul and a bit of lost love thrown in for good measure. I can see why he wrote this song – the spring month of April in Belgrade is absolutely the best weather in the world. It is not too hot, sunny skies, and blossoms everywhere. I felt guilty today telling students to go back to class near the end of the lunch recess. I just wanted to be outside all day today. I also love it because growing up in Michigan, April was always a killer month. We would have a week of sunny skies and warm temps, and then there would be some final few snow storms. Not like that in Belgrade, and after several months of relatively cold weather, it really is rejuvenating to have the warm (but not hot) temperatures come back. I am not lamenting old loves or rendezvous under the Sava Bridge like Zdravko, but I am humming the tune as a bike to work with the fragrant Apple blossoms waif through the air…

Blue Skies and Apple Blossoms in Dedinje

My daughter Ocean's favorite flower, the Magnolia. A common tree in Belgrade.

Family Picnic to Kosmaj

The monument to the Yugoslav Partizan Division in World War II.

Yesterday we had a family picnic to the “little sister” of Avala, Kosmaj. The mountain is located just a bit further south in Šumadija, and is also a designated park. There were a lot of people picnicing, a favorite Serbian activity, but it is such a big place, that we felt very relaxed. We walked up to the monument above, and then walked even further up to the military post. From there, we walked through the Beech forest, back to the picnic area, but no on trails. The kids absolutely loved climbing the hills and rocks, and playing with sticks. I loved the huge number of spring wildflowers.

The mountain may be named after the Slavic protector of woods and animals, Kozmaj. The kids felt her/his spirit and were in their element. The place is a nice day trip from Belgrade, with playgrounds, hiking trails, sporting fields, and a monastery (Tresinje) to visit as well.

Oliver climbs down the hill in the Beech Forests of Kosmaj.

Čedomir Jovanović – Political Campaign

 

Istina – Preokret, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Thanks to the political campaign billboard above, I learned the word, “istina” means truth in Serbian. The good-looking fellow in the photo is Čedomir Jovanović, the leader of the Liberal Democratic Party (LDP). They are running for parliament in this spring’s elections.

In reading a bit of background on Jovanović, the LDP is a minor party, and he finished in fifth place in the 2008 Serbian Presidential elections. Jovanović came to fame in the university student protests in the 1990′s, and served in the government of the late Prime Minister, Zoran Đinđić. He fell out of favor in the party, ultimately leaving current Serbian President, Boris Tadić’s party to form his own.

In the little reading I did on him, he seems to make provocative statements in the press to seek attention. He especially went after the Serbian tycoons and the organized crime surrounding the Milosević regime. He favors the independence of Kosovo, integration with Europe and severing ties with the Republika Srpska.

My advice for him would be to establish a career in a chosen field (university professor), and gain some experience outside politics before coming back and trying again. As with US politicians, his model-like looks help, but he is struggling to even get into parliament. .