Bill's Blog

Election monitors from the OSCE – ODIHR (Organization for Security and Cooperation in Europe – Office for Democratic Institutions and Human Rights) are staying at our hotel. On Wednesday, the country held parliamentary elections and the ceremonial Presidential elections as well. The Right-wing opposition party won big in both elections. The VMRO-DPMNE (Internal Macedonian Revolutionary Organization – Democratic Party for Macedonian National Unity) is a political party in North Macedonia. Founded in 1990, it is a center-right party with nationalistic and conservative positions. The party emphasizes Macedonian identity and heritage and has been a significant force in North Macedonian politics, often advocating for pro-European and NATO integration while maintaining a cautious approach to certain international and ethnic issues. That is a diplomatic way of saying the party advocates for the ethnic Macedonians over the minority Albanians and Turks in the country. For example, the new president, Gordana Siljanovska-Davkova, is against the Albanian language extension law and wants to revert back to the old name of the country. The outgoing president, Stevo Pendarovski, seemed like a nice guy, being the son of teachers and with a more moderate and progressive outlook. Citizens are frustrated however by how slow negotiations are going with the EU and the levels of corruption in the country.

Skopje is distinctive for its 284 statues which was part of the Skopje 2014 Project. VMRO-DPMNE officials ordered the construction of monuments and buildings to highlight classic Greek architecture and Macedonian heroes. The idea was to bring in tourists. There were allegations of corruption, nepotism, and complaints that the money could be used more wisely. The project did succeed in making the city distinctive and I’ve seen a lot of tourist groups around the city. The city was destroyed by an earthquake in 1963, so I wonder what it looked like before the project? I notice some Socialist/Tito influenced aging architecture around the city in between and behind the monuments. Skopje feels like Sarajevo to me with the Ottoman-style turrets of mosques and the surrounding mountains.

I had a nice afternoon yesterday. I went for a five kilometer run along the Vardar River path and did a loop through City Park. I loved the humid air after the thunderstorm and the green trees. Much different from the desert climate of Tashkent. I did a yoga session and then Nadia and I went out to “Stara Kukja” (Old House) restaurant with the other directors and their partners. I had a Šljivovica (plum brandy) appertif and a hearty, Macedonia meal of lamb, beef, pork and accompaniments. We walked back through the lighted city and the Stone Bridge was beautiful and reminded me of Ivo Andrić’s book, Bridge over the River Drina. The famous historical fiction work set in Ottoman-era Bosnia.

This is my third visit to the capital city of Skopje. The last time I was here was about 10 years ago, however, it was then capital of The Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia. Today it is the Republic of North Macedonia due to a compromise made by Greece and North Macedonia. Greece has a problem with the country using “Macedonia” because it is a region in Greece and historically associated with Greek culture. Greece was blocking Macedonia’s application to the European Union and NATO. The two countries signed an agreement on the shores of Lake Prespa in 2018 for Macedonia to change the name of the country in exchange for Greece allowing Macedonia to join NATO and the EU. North Macedonia has been a member of NATO since 2020 and has been in negotiations with the EU since July 2022. In my research, I learned the origin of the word Μακεδόνες may come from the Greek adjective “tall” which is appropriate for the Balkans. The South Slavs are a tall people!

North Macedonia is a tiny country of 1.8 million people. The Macedonians are a Slavic people. Their language uses a Cyrillic script and is mutually intelligible with Bulgarian. In reading a bit about the history of the Macedonians, they were usually under the control of a larger, outside empire, most recently the Bulgarians, Serbs, and Ottomans. All of the people of the Balkans are related linguistically and genetically to varying degrees. The Macedonians are probably closest to the Bulgarians and are sometimes called “Western Bulgarians”. The country first became independent in 1991, escaping peacefully from the breakup of Yugoslavia. I worry about the 25% Albanian minority population of the country. The relationship was destabilized with Kosovo’s breakaway from Serbia. The Slavic Macedonian group composes about 2/3 of North Macedonia. The two groups signed an agreement in 2001 preserving the minority Albanian rights and giving them some autonomy within the country. One of the big challenges is the economic disparity and the cultural differences between ethnic Albanians and ethnic Macedonians. I can see the lighted Christian cross shining over the city from the nearby mountains, similar to the cross in Bethlehem, Pennsylvania. I sense it is there to remind everyone that is a Christian nation.

Nadia and I flew to Skopje overnight through Istanbul. We had a quiet day exploring the city in the morning and sleeping in the afternoon. I am here for school leadership meetings of our regional association of international schools. The spring meetings coincided with our Victory and Remembrance Day holidays that are taking place today throughout the former Soviet Union Republics. The Russians mark May 9 as the anniversary of the World War II victory over Nazi Germany. We took advantage of the school holidays for Nadia to come with me. Often, school directors are accompanied by their partners, but Nadia is usually teaching and not able to attend. I hope to blog more about our experiences in North Macedonia this weekend.

* Part of the Prespa agreement was to not to proclaim Alexander the Great as Macedonian so the name of the statue was changed from “Alexander” to “Man or Soldier”.

I am not often shocked, but on the way home from Abu Dhabi I was magically bumped up to Business Class on my Emirates flight to Delhi. Approaching the attendant at the gate ready to board, I was preparing myself for a 3-hour journey in economy seat 61D. When the airline employee scanned my ticket, a “conflict error” message flashed on the screen. He immediately issued a new business class ticket, moving me to seat 9A. I was stunned. I had a private compartment and a full bed! What a nice gift from either the Emirate desk agent or the flight gods. 

I want to travel to India and my connection went through Delhi so it doesn’t count on my life list, but I got to experience it a bit in my 3+ hours in the airport. It is the world’s most populous nation and many commentators and academics think it will play a leading role this century. I need to convince my wife to go during one of our breaks as it is close to Tashkent and a cheaper holiday. My brother lived in Bangalore for two years and I regret not visiting him during one of our spring breaks while we were in Japan. One of the major challenges for the country is air pollution. I could see the brown haze on our morning flight. 

Our family had a nice weekend together as I recovered from an overnight flight. I came to school on the Friday in the afternoon. We celebrated my son Oliver’s 19th birthday by going out to dinner at the Cheese Factory (Сированя in Russian). It is part of the Novikov restaurants, owned by Russian restauranteur, Arkady Novikov who has ties to the Kremlin. They make fresh cheese right on the site and the food and drinks are delicious. Oliver is in the midst of IB final exams, so we had a relaxed night out. 

Saturday night Oliver and I went to pick up Nadia who was with her girlfriends at the karaoke bar, Baritone. We ended up singing a lot of Bon Jovi! He has several classic sing-along arena rock anthems (Living on a Prayer, You Give Love a Bad Name) that are perfect for karaoke. We had a great time! Sunday night I took Obi for a walk downtown and I am surprised at how drastically the cityscape is changing with the Tashkent City Development. 

The United Arab Emirates (UAE) is similar in population to my home state of Michigan, the UAE hosts approximately 10 million residents, yet only 1 million are Emirati citizens. The vast majority are expatriates drawn by lucrative job opportunities in a region fueled by its significant oil production—around 3 million barrels per day. UAE is richer than Michigan, with a GDP per capita reaching $70,000 and Michigan at $50,000.

Leaders in the UAE government however, recognize the finite nature of oil resources and the UAE is strategically diversifying. Utilizing its $1.5 trillion sovereign wealth fund, it is transformng into a trading entrepôt, financial center, and transport hub. This is evident in the user-friendly and aesthetically pleasing airports in Dubai and Abu Dhabi, which enhance the experience of international travel. I was so impressed with my travel experience. There are no hassles going through immigration or customs. Many countries, you feel like a war crimes suspect when they check your bags, leaf through your passport, look at you menacingly. Why? UAE does it right. They have the attitude of please come and spend your money, enjoy our country and then go home.

During my third visit to the UAE, I spent a week in the suburbs of Abu Dhabi, the wealthiest and most influential emirate. My last day was marked by an unusual event: rain. It was a light, steady rainfall that amusingly led to school closures—a rarity in the region. Last night’s high winds were a dramatic prelude, shaking my hotel windows around 1:30 AM. By 2:00 PM, after our final accreditation meeting at a local school, the rain ceased.

With some time to spare before our evening flights, a group of us visited the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Constructed under the guidance of the late President from 1994 to 2007, who was buried in the courtyard in 2004, the mosque is a monumental tribute to Islamic diversity, incorporating architectural elements from across the Muslim world. It can accommodate over 40,000 worshippers and was built at a cost of $545 million, now serving as a major tourist destination similar to the Taj Mahal.

Entry to the mosque is free, although access requires navigating through a bustling shopping mall. The scene at the mall was lively, with a diverse crowd of international tourists. The contrast was striking as some female visitors, initially clad in revealing Western attire, had to adapt to local norms by donning headscarves and robes before entering the sacred space. After the visit, I went back to the hotel, took a nap, did a bit of yoga and headed out to the airport.

The one big difference between this visit and my previous visits to UAE was a might a lot of locals. The school we were accrediting had an Emirati population of over 60% and I talked with many students and parents over the five days at the school. I found them to be kind, open and not much different from other cultures. Very few of the girls wore headscarves and they acted like typical teenagers. A group of second graders helped me spell my name in Arabic. The government is pushing its citizens to complete education and training programs so they can be productive contributors to the economy. In the past, many received cushy government appointments that didn’t really ask much of them. This is definitely changing. It was fascinating to hear their perspective on the differences between their state school experience and the international school. These students were not the ultra-wealthy, spoiled Arab students I had heard about from some international educators.

I liked Abu Dhabi more than Dubai as it was not a congested, in-your-face, over-the-top vibe. I could live in the Gulf Region, although I wonder if I would miss green landscapes. There are definitely pleasures to be had in Abu Dhabi.

It is always hard to leave my family when I go away on business trips. I made Oliver and Ocean take a picture while I was getting into my Yandex. I spent Saturday morning with Nadia, taking her to her swimming club and then Ollie and I went grocery shopping. I also checked in at school to make sure everything was going smoothly with the PTO Garage Sale. Expats who are leaving Uzbekistan in June always appreciate the opportunity to sell some of their stuff they are not shipping on to their next post.

I am on an accreditation visit of a school in Abu Dhabi. This is my first time in the capital of the United Arab Emirates. My previous two visits have been to Dubai and Hatta. My first impression of the richer and more traditional emirate of Abu Dhabi is that it is much quieter than Dubai. I am staying out in the suburbs (Khalifa City) but it is much easier to get around with less traffic and tourists. It is less densely populated and makes it a much more pleasant ambiance. The prices are much more reasonable here than in Dubai. In speaking with the taxi driver, he moved from Dubai to Abu Dhabi because the cost-of-living was less and it was less hectic. You can really feel the difference.

The only time I saw Emiratis was in the Yas Mall. So far most of the hotel workers, taxi drivers, retail sales people are all foreigners. I am doing a little survey to see where they are from. So far it is India number one, Pakistan number two, and Phillipines number three. I also talked to an Ethiopian and Frenchman (Apple Store). The Yas Mall was a much more peaceful experience than the Dubai Mall. They love their shopping malls in the Gulf Region and Abu Dhabi is no exception. I completed my shopping list from my family in less than 20 minutes, so a good night.

On my first night I ran around the Marriot Al Forsan where I am staying. Crazy to see the artificial water skiing lakes. The hotel is next to the Al Forsan Sports Center that also has go-carts, shooting range, paddle ball courts, horse riding, etc. There is also Al Forsan gated community right next door. There are hundreds of gated communities with pretty big townhouses or detached homes with small gardens.

Last Sunday, April 22, my friend Brian and I rode from the village of Tavaksay up to the waterfalls and back down the other side of the canyon. The ride was 18 kilometers and it took us about 3 hours. The left side of the canyon heading up to the falls was brilliant for cycling, but the right side was mostly spent carrying the bikes on rocky precipices. The weather was beautiful and Brian and savored meeting the physical challenges at our advanced ages. 🙂

There were many hikers making their way up to the falls. The Uzbeks are so kind! Several younger accountants helped carry our bikes up the mountain to make it to the falls. We also met a lot of people that wanted to practice their English and who admire Americans. We had some laughs with them and my limited Russian helped us communicate.

As we are nearing the end of the academic year, our family is gearing up our middle son’s graduation that will take place May 24. Oliver is in the Class of 2024 and the seniors had their last regular day of school this past Tuesday. They are now on Study Leave as they prepare for the International Baccalaureate exams starting April 24. This is our second child that will be graduating high school. I made a video of my day with Oliver. As an international educator, I’ve had the gift of having my children with me everyday at work. It is so special to catch glimpses of Oliver throughout the day or week and just knowing that he is near was comforting to both me and my wife Nadia. The school did a wonderful job of giving Oliver a special day. I would like to thank my colleagues Karl and Derek especially for organizing a meaningful ceremony and parade.

Oliver and I played soccer against each other last night. Faculty from the Cambridge International School challenged our faculty to a game. Boys Varsity Soccer Coach Rob Battye, invited me and Oliver to join along. A few of Oliver’s teammates also played. Oliver’s playing style and looks are like Erling Haaland, the Norwegian striker who plays for Manchester City. He scored several goals by having a strong leg and ice cold accuracy on quick strikes. I scored a goal on a penalty kick, my first ever in a “real” game. I have not played soccer in a long time, and it felt good to get back out on the field. I am out of my element in soccer, but felt more comfortable as the game went on. For me it was mostly a chance to bond with Oliver. I wore the Romanian national uniform that my friend Claudiu bought for Oliver. Oliver went with the AC Roma. He loves soccer jerseys!

Below is the official video of the Seniors’ Last Day.

We had a really nice Saturday here in Tashkent during the Eid al Fitr break. After doing my morning yoga, Nadia and I exercised at school. We did 4 kilometers of walking/jogging around the campus and then hit the fitness room for a weight workout. We then took Ocean to her dentist. She is deciding if it is necessary to get braces for her bottom row of teeth. They are not majorly out of line, so it would be a 12-18 month treatment with invisiline.

In the evening we dined at the Capri Restaurant with Oliver and Ocean. They have an Italian chef and the food was quite good. Ocean loves seafood pasta, which can be expensive in the double-landlocked country, but to see the happiness on her face made it worth it for all of us. Nadia and Ocean looked absolutely gorgeous and we had a great evening of family bonding.

Today I took Nadia to the Yangiobad Fleamarket to buy some vintage Soviet metal enamel cookware. She found plenty and it is her latest hobby. I bought a cool metal Russian Orthodox cross. The guy said it was from the 19th century. I am not sure, but will see if I can find someone who can tell me a bit more about it. I thought it would look good in my office. I was unsuccessful in finding a bust of Lenin.

The end of Ramadan is marked by three days of celebrations. Eid begins at sunset on the last day of Ramadan. We noticed all of the mosques holding services at sunrise the next day as you can see in the photo above. Police were controlling traffic and protecting pedestrians. Every mosque had long lines of cars parked on the highway. We also noticed on Wednesday and Thursday many people headed out for picnics in the countryside. Uzbeks really enjoy setting up a day camp alongside a river, up in the mountains at a site with a nice view, or just on the side of the road. They get a makeshift grill going to roast shashlik, and the kids are running around and flying kites and extended families are generally enjoying the fresh air and relationships with family and friends. It felt a bit like our 4th of July weekend.

We had a nice Friday at home. I played paddleball for the first time with friends. It is between pickle ball and tennis and I enjoyed it. I felt it was an easier form of tennis. We hosted friends over on Friday night for dinner. The weather is finally nice so we cooked quesadillas in our outdoor kitchen and it was a night full of laughter and good conversation.

Ocean and I completed the Tashkent International School Mountains Level 1 hike on Wednesday. We have three days off of school this week due to the Eid al Fitr holiday. My friend Robin Marsh and I started the Adventure Program at our school and the idea is to get students off their devices and challenging themselves in the great outdoors of Uzbekistan. Ocean is a strong athlete and hiker and likes to get outdoors. Not as much as I do, but she is a good daughter and sees how much I enjoy spending time with her.

We left early on Wednesday morning after setting up camp outside the village of Nevich in the foothills of the Chimgan National Park. We made a long, slow ascent along the river and along the top of ridges, looping around to the other side of the canyon. The views were spectacular on the top with wildflowers coloring the green hillsides and with blue skies and white mountain peaks, it was a majestic day. Uzbekistan in the spring rivals the Alps until the hot suns turn it brown and dusty. Most of the 15-kilometer hike was refreshing and easy.

The last portion of the hike felt more than a “level 1” hike. We walked a big loop in the mountains and were about 1-2 kilometers from our campsite. We could see our tents as we made our way along the ridge. The final portion of the hike was to cross the Nevich River and finish where we set up our tents that morning. We dropped down a pretty steep hillside (photo above right) down to the banks of the river (photo above left). We chose a crossing where there were no rapids but due to the rains on the previous day, the water was a little too deep to cross safely. That meant climbing back out of the canyon to the ridge and finding an alternative path back to our campsite. The sun was setting and so we had to hustle to make it back up to the ridge. The mountains of Uzbekistan do not have marked trails so you need to find shepherds and livestock trails to follow. We did find a well-traveled path over the next ridge and down to our campsite. We arrived back in the dark with headlamps on, but by the time that happened, we were on a flat path near the tents.

We were all quite tired at the end of the day and the campfire and dinner were just what we needed. We all slept well and packed up and returned back to Tashkent safely the next day. The drive from Tashkent to Nevich is only about 90 minutes on a bus.

Another interesting aspect of the hike was this abandoned Soviet space program research station located just outside of Nevich. The TashKBM (Tashkent Machine Building Design Bureau) was built in 1969. Scientists developed drilling equipment and soil intake devices to use in their space program. I hope the government or private entity can restore it as it would be an interesting museum and be a good pairing with the nearby Solar Furnace complex, closer to Parkent. I would love to explore inside!