The Sacred Deer of Nara Park

“I’ve had enough…”

As you can see by this bloated deer, the tourists are back! I was reading that during COVID, the deer were starving without the daily influx of tourists feeding the deer rice cookies. By the time we arrived in the afternoon, the deer looked like they were full and tired of having tourists stick cookies in their faces. We had to walk away from the central park area up to Wakakusayama Hill to find deer that were eager to crunch the cookies.

Hungry Deer

This is the fourth time that I’ve visited Nara Park and the famous Sika or Northern Spotted or Japanese Deer (Cervus nippon). My daughter Ocean wanted to post photographs of feeding the deer on her Instagram so we drove from Osaka to Nara (55 minutes). Besides the deer, there are some beautiful Buddhist Temples including one of the world’s largest wooden temples housing a huge statue of Buddha. The manicured grounds are full of trees, ponds, and open grass areas.

Oliver feeds the deer

The deer are considered to be sacred messengers of the gods and have been protected for over a thousand years. They have been isolated for so long from other deer herds in Japan that they are genetically different and they behave differently. The Nara Deer are famous for bowing while approaching tourists for rice. This is not a behavior Sika Deer exhibits in nature and they think it may have developed as a form of communication between the deer and the humans.

Red Bean Paste and Strawberry Mochi

In the evening, Nadia and I rode our bicycles to meet with my friend Kurt at the Minoh Brewery. They make in my opinion, the world’s finest craft beers. I tried the Yuzu White one of their winter beers. I love seasonal things and like all of their beers, absolutely delicious. I don’t drink a lot of beer or alcohol in general for health reasons especially now I am in my 50s, but I do love an occasional good craft beer. I also keep being impressed with Google Translate. It is so much faster and more accurate than 5 years ago and makes travel in Japan easier. I also sense the Japanese are opening to the English-speaking world. With such a weak yen, the island is receiving many more tourists who are coming specifically for shopping.

Family Journal: December 28, 2023

Japan is a country of jingles or tunes. One of my favorites is the Family Mart entry door chime. Every time the sliding doors of a Family Mart open, a Panasonic door chime plays the melody above. This blog post about Family Mart in China, explains the origin of this melody.  I wonder what the employees of Family Mart think when they have to listen to the song all day long? Do they get tired of the tune? It brings back memories of our time living in Japan. Our kids love Family Mart, over 7 11 and Lawson’s in the Japanese Convenience Store market. There are many 7-second jingles in the train stations, with departure and arrival tunes and stores also play their own theme songs.

I also made a short video above of Nadia and I cycling back from the grocery store. There are many narrow alleys and roads in Japan, often dating back centuries to the Edo Period. This particular road in our former neighborhood is called Kyusaigoku Kaido. Kaido is the name of any historical trail/path/road. This particular road meanders from northern Osaka to Kyoto. I’ve taken it all the way to the Suntory Whiskey Distillery in Kyoto. I love the old wooden homes, lanterns, and Japanese-style gardens along the route. We rode it often when we lived here because it has less car traffic than the busier roads.

Finally, we are catching up with old friends. It is so nice to see them again and Nadia and I have fond memories of our time working at the Senri and Osaka International Schools of Kwansei Gakuin and living in Minoh. Fumie, Ritsu, and Izumi (sick yesterday) took good care of our family, helping us navigate Japan and the school as we adjusted to the distinct culture of the school and country. Kurt and Cari were close family friends of ours and Kurt was a trusted colleague on the leadership team. He always gave good advice and cared about the students. My heart was filled with happiness that all of them are healthy and still enjoying life. Until we meet again!

Family Journal: December 27, 2023

Kenta and Oliver

I had a really nice relaxing day, enjoying both urban and suburban Japan. Oliver and I worked on his university applications with his friend Kenta. They are applying to US universities and I gave them advice on their essays and help in filling out the forms. Afterwards, we went to a restaurant serving tonkatsu (Japanese deep-fried pork cutlet). I of course ordered the winter menu set that came with deep fried Hiroshima oysters. The meal is accompanied with miso soup, cabbage, rice, and a special tonkatsu sauce. Absolutely delicious! Although it is deep fried, it is not oily but crispy and it just goes so well with cabbage and rice. The breading is “panko” a white-bread, non-crust bread crumb. The cabbage topped with sesame dressing gives the meal some more crunch.

Tonkatsu Meal

After a short nap, I went for a long walk in the hills of Saito, above our rental home. I love that we lived in a nice suburb close to nature. It was sunny and cool and perfect walking weather.

Oliver and I then went downtown Osaka to pick up Nadia and Ocean. We stopped at the Hankyu Department Store and watched people and drank a nice craft wheat beer. We then drove back home. Owen went skiing with friends to Hakuba and will be gone for a few days.

Oliver on a rooftop parking lot

Nadia and Ocean were tired so we drove back north to our rental house. I wanted to stay downtown a bit more, but we will go again. Below is a short video of us crossing the street in Umeda.

Family Journal: December 24, 2023 “Parks and Seasonal Eating”

Ocean, Nadia, Oliver and Owen in front of the slide in Senri Chuo Park

We continue with our nostalgia tour with a walk around Senri Chuo Park. Japan has some beautiful green parks, especially in the suburbs. We spent a lot of time in Senri Chuo Park when we lived here from 2014-2019. I loved watching birds in the pond and running/cycling the trails in and around the park. The kids loved the giant slide and playgrounds. We also used to take the students from OIS for an annual picnic in the last week of school here. Many good memories.

Senri Chuo Park

We forgot how beautiful the northern Osaka suburbs are. There are breathtaking views of the surrounding Minoh Hills and the manicured parks and cycling trails. We also visited one of the neighborhood parks, Matsuide. We remember our first day in our house in August of 2014 with all of us sweating and going over to the park. Lots of good times in the park after getting over the culture shock and jet lag…

Yesterday Nadia and I went for a 20-kilometer bike ride. I took her on some of my old cycle routes around Expo Park and back to Onohara-Nishi. The rental house comes with two electric bikes that are quite popular in Japan. Japan is ideal for cycling because of its courteous and safe drivers, excellent roads with many bike lanes, good weather for most of the year, and a lot of people do it so drivers and pedestrians are used to cyclists. I am against electric bikes because it is “cheating” but it is nice on the hills and when you are doing errands and are tired after a day’s work.

One of my favorite aspects of Japan is the food. Japanese eat seasonally and each season comes with a different set of seafood. I ordered the Winter 5 set at our neighborhood sushi restaurant, which featured the famous Tiger Blowfish and scallops. Eating sushi in Japan spoiled me and all other sushi I eat in other countries pales in comparison.

Family Journal: December 22, 2023 “Round One”

We had an awesome family night at Round One Entertainment Center. Round One is a chain of 108 amusement stores in Japan that was founded here in the Osaka prefecture. They have karaoke, billiards, darts, arcade games, bowling, batting cages, and table tennis. We bought the multi-pass and rolled two games of bowling, an epic table tennis match between Oliver and Owen, and finished off the night with a couple of hours of karaoke. Lots of shared fun with the family, something we haven’t done in a long time.

Table tennis really helped our family get through the COVID-19 lockdowns in the spring of 2020. We played everyday and we all became pretty good at it! We tried a couple of the arcade games, but lost right away. The bowling was fun, I especially liked the front and back cameras that show your form. If people were serious about improving their bowling, this would be a great way to analyze your form. This is a long way from when I started bowling at Pladium Lanes in Iron River, Michigan in the early 1970s. You needed to keep your own score on a bowling score sheet. They had a really beautiful bar and I remember my dad bringing home their greasy hamburgers with pickles from the Saturday Night Mixed Couples League my mom and dad were part of. We had a babysitter and always looked forward to eating them.

Oliver and Ocean Sing Karaoke

The karaoke was awesome. Nadia and Ocean have good voices and Owen, Oliver, and I have a lot of enthusiasm and stage presence. The kids chose a lot of Kanye West songs and Nadia and I chose 80s songs. With the jet lag, we didn’t stop singing until 2:00 AM. The Round One was in downtown Osaka in the East Yodo River section. I am seeking permission from the kids to post some of the karaoke videos.

Latest Reading – “Eager: The Surprising, Secret Life of Beavers and Why They Matter”

I have a special interest in the North American Beaver (Castor canadensis) because the Upper Peninsula of Michigan was first explored by French fur trappers in the 1600s. The fur trappers opened up the UP to European immigrant settlement. Early immigrants devastated North America’s natural ecosystems and the fur trappers greatly changed the wilderness by trapping and killing the estimated 150 million beavers present when the first Europeans arrived in North America in the 17th century. By the turn of the 20th century, around 100,000 beavers were left. Today there are an estimated 15 million beavers, still only 10% of the original population.

My main takeaway from the book is the profound positive impact the North American Beaver has on wilderness. By damming rivers, beavers create micro ecosystems by slowing down flowing rivers to form wetlands. Beaver-created wetlands greatly benefit plants, insects, fish, amphibians, bird life, mammals, especially predators, groundwater levels, etc. By wiping out the beaver, early fur traders turned life-enriching bogs into fast-flowing rivers (east) or dried river bottoms and deserts (west). I didn’t know that beavers were so widespread in the USA, from California to Georgia. The same thing happened to the closely related Eurasian Beaver (Castor fiber) which was down to 1,200 individuals at the start of the 20th century. I also didn’t know that beavers are in the rodent family and are the second largest rodent after our beloved Capybara (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris). I’ve spent a lot of time in Bolivia observing capybaras.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a beaver in the wild. I see plenty of muskrats and as a kid, used to go out with a neighborhood friend to help him check his trap lines. This summer if I am in the UP, I am definitely going to be searching for beaver dams, especially around Ishpeming, to see if I can find the oldest “infrastructure” in Michigan. Goldfarb mentions an 1868 beaver map by explorer Lewis Henry Morgan and the recent work of South Dakota State University researcher Carol Johnston who says you can still discern most of the dams today.

The author spent most of his time in the American West in the book, but he covers a lot of historical and contemporary beaver projects. Goldfarb describes reintroduction programs and techniques to allow humans to live next to beavers. Most people consider beavers to be pests because they eat lots of trees, cause flooding, and stop the flow of rivers. As a kayaker, carrying my kayak around beaver dams would be a hassle. Beavers are amazing workers and I see why we say, “busy as a beaver”.

Other takeaways from the book are as follows:

  • A big issue in the Western United States is livestock (mostly cattle) grazing in riparian areas. Beavers protect rivers, streams, and creeks by creating mini-dams that hold water in the dry season and create wetland areas in the arid West.
  • Goldfarb devotes a chapter to Elko County, Nevada, and the Uintas Mountains of Utah. I am very familiar with these areas.
  • Streams should not be “strings” or “ribbons” but “meal of spaghetti” instead. Taking out a keystone species like the beaver severely altered the landscape.
  • Researchers in 2005 estimated between 15 million and 250 million beaver ponds puddled in North America before European arrival. Beavers once submerged 234,000 square miles of North America, an area larger than Nevada and Arizona combined.
  • The term “mad as a hatter” came from manufacturers of beaver fur hats in Danbury, Connecticut. They used mercury nitrate that matted fur into malleable felt.
  • perspicacious – astute, intelligent
  • avuncular – like an uncle
  • joie de vivre – joy of living
  • The Great Basin is America’s coldest and most northernmost desert.
  • Society must align the benefits of beavers (fish and wildlife habitat, carbon storage, cleaner water) with private landowners who view them as eating Cottonwood trees, plugging irrigation ditches and flooding fields.
  • USA had over 90,000 dams, 15,000 of which are “high hazard”. By killing beavers, Americans depleted the Western landscape’s ability to store water, so instead we built thousands of concrete dams.
  • 16 million Greater Sage Grouse once lived in the high desert sage, today is it 400,000. Sage Grouse chicks need summer streams to live and this is a win-win for both species.
  • There is a chapter devoted to Yellowstone National Park. There is a popular theory that the wolves brought back Yellowstone because they prevented wild ruminants (elk, deer, bison) from riverside grazing. It is a bit more complicated than that with the beaver also playing a role.
  • The UK is properly described as a land barren of wilderness, with every tree and large animal wiped out centuries ago.

“The conservation of the common,” the author JB MacKinnon has written, “represents a deeper ambition than the 20th century’s lopsided division of the world into islands of wild… It calls on us to integrate conservation into every aspect of human life.” Beavers – catholic in their habitat requirements, ark-like in their ability to support other forms of life- represent a spectacular opportunity to practice MacKinnon’s ideal.

Eager: The Surprising Secret Life of Beavers and Why They Matter

I copied and pasted Michigan Department of Natural Resources website under nuisance animals. Beavers: Michigan’s largest rodent, the beaver, is known for great feats of engineering, building dams and lodges out of logs, sticks, and mud. However, beavers can cause problems for landowners when their gnawing habits ruin landscape trees and when their dams create flooding.

Damage prevention and control tips:

  • Eliminate food sources like desirable trees and woody vegetation where possible. Beavers especially enjoy cottonwood, willow, and aspen.For landscape trees, place metal flashing, hardware cloth or tree guards around the trees at least 3 feet high to prevent gnawing on trees.Fence around small critical areas like drains, culverts or other small areas to prevent dam building.With a permit from the local DNR wildlife biologist, continually destroy dams and materials used to build dams. If the dam has grown large enough to require the use of tools, contact the Department of Environment, Great Lakes, and Energy Environmental Assistance Center, 1-800-662-9278, or the EGLE district office for your area to obtain a dam removal permit.
Removing a beaver from private property
  • Install a Clemson beaver pond leveler or beaver baffler in or near coverts and dam openings. These devices allow water to move through them while preventing dam construction.If you live in an area where trapping is allowed, beavers may be trapped in season with a valid base and fur harvester license.Contact the Michigan Trappers and Predator Callers to see if they have anyone interested in trapping the beaverIf these methods do not alleviate the beaver issues you’re experiencing, the final step is to contact a nuisance animal control company or the local wildlife biologist, depending on where you’re located.
    • If you’re located on private land in Zone 3 (southern MI) and it is between April 1st – April 29, contact a nuisance control company for their assistance. See the Hunting Digest for the zoning map.
If you are located on private land in Zone 3 and it is outside of that timeframe, or if you’re located in any other counties, contact the local DNR Customer Service Center, year-round, to obtain a Damage and Nuisance Animal permit

Family Journal: December 21, 2023

The View from Our House

We are getting over jet lag (4-hour time difference) and travel fatigue and settling into our holiday in Japan. We are renting a home of a former colleague in the suburb of Ibabraki, the suburb next to our former home suburb of Minoh. We are on the outskirts of the Osaka metropolitan area and are surrounded by the hills and trees of the Minoh Hills National Park.

3-3-12

On our first full day in Japan, we visited our old house, which is now vacant and in dire need of TLC. We also visited former school, the Senri and Osaka International Schools of Kwansei Gakuin. I was impressed with the improvements to the campus that Kwansei Gakuin University has been doing, the place looks great. The kids are full of nostalgia and we did have a nice life in our beautiful neighborhood of Onohara Nishi. I loved going to our old Starbucks and Q’s Mall. Q’s Mall is an outdoor mall that is now at the end of the Senri Chuo Line. They are opening a subway station which started right before we left 4 and 1/2 years ago.

The Japanese language poster of Wonka

We watched Wonka, the musical by director Paul King. I loved it because the songs were great, it was old-fashioned in that it had the look and feel of the original 1971 movie that I loved as a kid and lots of great actors, costumes, and sets. I see the appeal of star Timothee Chalamet who starred in a young Willy Wonka. The story was a prequel to the 1971 original. I give it a “thumbs up”!

View from rooftop parking garage of Q’s Mall

Winter skies in Japan are so blue and clear! The summer is hot, humid and hazy but winter is dry and cold usually.

Family Journal: December 19-20, 2023 “Travel to Japan”

We had a nice final day in Tashkent before traveling to Japan in the evening. I did a lot of yoga in the morning, went to school to close a few pending issues, and packed for the trip. The kids and Nadia were so excited to return to Osaka where we lived from 2014 – 2019. We have never returned to a place where we lived and waves of nostalgia came over our kids as we drove around our neighborhood.

Incheon Airport with a dusting of snow this morning

The Tashkent airport was unusually calm with few people flying out. We flew Korean Air, the flag carrier of South Korea. They have 3 flights per week to Seoul and I highly recommend them. Koreans are much quieter and politer than Uzbeks when they are flying. It made for a pleasant night of travel. We made our 90-minute connection with no problems. Incheon Airport is one of my favorite airports, very comfortable with complimentary sleeping pods and plenty of male skin care products. 🙂 Korean is much more western and modern than Japan in my opinion.

Arriving at KIX (Kansai International Airport) brought back many memories. I used the toilets and forgot that the Japanese make the rest of the world look like barbarians when it comes to the bathroom experience. I need to install a Toto toilet seat in my house in the USA. Nothing better! We then took the “limousine bus” to the Hankyu Umeda Train Station in the center of Osaka. KIX is on an artficial island in southern Osaka Bay, a 70-minute bus ride from the center of Osaka. From their we took our old Kita Senri Hankyu train to the end of the line. From Kita Senri Station, we took a taxi to our friend’s home in Ibaraki, a far northern suburb of Osaka. It is adjacent to our former suburb of Minoh, so we are familar the area.

After getting settled in, we drove to our old house and school. We decided to eat at Nishiki Warai Restaurant that specializes in Kansai-style Okonomiyaki, a popular street food in Osaka. In English it is translated as “What you like” – “grilled”. It is basically a flour based dough mixed with yam and cabbage and then add pork, shrimp, octopus, squid, green onions, etc. It is known as “Osaka Soul Food” and the closest in our cuisine would be pizza. There is a hot griddle (teppan) in the middle of the table and the patrons finish cooking it. You can also put bonito flakes, Japanese mayonaise, a dark type of Worchester Sauce. Delicious!

Kansai Style Okonomiyaki

Family Journal: December 18, 2023 “Owen Returns”

Oliver (18), Owen (21), Ocean (16) – Syrovarnya Restaurant – Tashkent

It has been a relaxing few days since we ended school last Friday, December 13. I am on flexible working schedule this week and am spending more time with family. On the work side of my life, I am wrapping up personnel and facilities issues before the end of the calendar year. I also got a couple of basketball practices in with the girls varsity team. On the personal side, I am doing more fitness and exercise, blogging my trip to Tanzania, and preparing for our trip to Japan.

Winter Garden at the Kralovec Residence…

The snow has mostly melted in Tashkent as temperatures are now mostly above freezing. I need to wear my Japanese Heat Tech™ underwear to feel comfortable when temperatures are below zero Celsius. I heard that older people feel cold more because of decreased circulation. I don’t remember feeling this cold when I was younger. With the long underwear I am fine and I enjoy the cool weather of a Tashkent winter. I’ve been walking Obi more to get daily sunshine and went for a 5 kilometer run yesterday. I want to add cardio to my power yoga workouts over the 3-week Winter Break. When I return in January, I want to add weights as well. Listening to a Peter Attia interview, as one ages, especially after age 75, muscle mass decreases significantly. I want to have muscles to ensure an active lifestyle for next 20 years. After today, I will be 1/3 the way through my Power Yoga 108 which is truly life-changing experience for me as advertised.

Two Beautiful Women – Ocean and Nadia

The big news in our family is the return of our eldest son Owen. He is visiting us this month after completing the first semester of this third year in university. It is always nice to have our family whole again and I really miss having him around. We celebrated his 21st birthday last night by going out to Nadia’s favorite restaurant in Tashkent, “Cheese Factory” or Сыроварня. He is maturing into adult and we are all looking forward to reconnecting with him the month. He is suffering from jet lag but fought through dinner last night. Ocean and I are connecting over basketball. She is a really good athlete and I am slowly getting through to her regarding her use of fundamentals. I am quite positive over our team’s chances this year in the year-end tournaments. Oliver and I ran some errands the past couple of days for Nadia. She made a Venezuelan Christmas favorite, Pan de Jamón. It is baked bread with ham, cheese, olives, and raisins inside. I also take every opportunity to drive Oliver and Ocean to where they want to go.

My mouth is healing from a tooth extraction last Monday. The swelling is going down but I was not able to take out the stitches last night. I just need to not smile as I am missing two teeth on the left side of my mouth. I need to do some research about implants because I don’t think it should take this long. Sitting at dinner waiting for my family to arrive to the restaurant, I was so filled with joy when they walked in. I am so blessed to have such a beautiful and healthy family. I am trying to savor all of these special moments with my wife and children. Below are some scenes of Tashkent from my walks with Obi.

History of East African Slave Trade and Bill’s Thoughts on Tanzania

Holy Ghost Mission – Bagamoyo, Tanzania

On our way back to the capital Dar Es Salaam and our flight home, we stopped at the historic port city of Bagamoyo. I was fascinated to read about the East African Slave Trade. As an American, I read a lot about the slaves from West Africa being shipped across the Atlantic to the USA. I didn’t know that almost 1.5 million slaves were captured in the interior (mostly Congo) and put to work on coastal plantations or shipped to India, China, Persia, and Arabia. You don’t see a large population of Africans in those countries today. I wonder why? In America, just under 400,000 slaves were sent to the American South and today African Americans make up around 10% of the total US population. Were they killed after slavery was abolished? Sent back to Africa? Worked to death?

We stopped at a former Catholic mission, Holy Ghost Mission, in Bagamoyo which is now a school and a museum. In the photo above, you can see Livingston Tower on the church. It is named in honor of the famous African explorer. His body was interred in the mission while waiting to be transported back to England. The Catholic missionaries helped freed slaves and brought development to the area. It was nice to read that the Muslim leader Sultan Majid, gifted the land to the French Catholics to build the church and convent.

Interior of the Holy Ghost Mission

It was sad to read that only about 20% of the slaves captured in the interior, survived the journey to the coast. What a tragedy! I can’t imagine the conditions and I guess it is easy to look back over 200 years ago and judge the cruelty of the slave traders. The museum also gave the history of German colonization of East Africa. The British took over the settlement after World War I. In 1916 British troops invaded and took the city from the Germans.

Today Bagamoyo seemed to be a sleepy small town. We stopped for dinner on the way out Fish Eagle Point and and lunch on the way back at a hotel owned by a French woman. I was trying to buy some souvenirs, but really nothing to buy. I laughed at the advertisement below of the hairstyles. I asked Ocean to get the “Ariana”.

We drove through the traffic of Dar Es Salaam on the way the airport. We drove right by the US Embassy and other embassies and stopped at a shopping mall to buy some Pili-Pili Sauce. It is a hot pepper sauce that I really like and I bought the regular and mango. Delicious! We also like Aramat, an MSG/Corn/Salt seasoning that makes everything taste good. Dar Es Salaam didn’t look particularly appealing, hot, lots of traffic, a bit chaotic and crowded. I sure it has its charms but we were not in the city long enough to enjoy them.

Typical Traffic Scene from Dar Es Salaam

The Tanzanians I met were very friendly, loud and positive. Like many African nations, it is fast growing (4.39 children / female) with a demographics skewed towards young people. Tanzania was country #69 on my life list and my first visit to Africa. With a population of 62 million, it is the largest country entirely south of the equator. It is one of the most stable countries in Africa, with no major strife since its independence in 1964. The nature is amazing with the world’s deepest lake, mountains (Kilimanjaro), tropical coastline, forests and one of the biggest safari tourism industry (21 national parks) in Africa. They have presidential term limits of 2 x 5 years = 10 years. I was very interested in hearing people speak of their tribes. There are over 125 ethnic groups and over 100 languages Swahili is the national language . “My people are from the mountains.” one guy told me. I couldn’t tell the difference between the tribes, only the Maasai, who were much thinner, were distinctive. It is poor with 61% below the poverty line, but I see strong relationships, large familes and generally people have smiles on their faces. The country is 2/3 Christian and 1/3 Islam and I didn’t see or feel any strife between the two groups. I would definitely return to Tanzania and I would love to live there someday.