My Impressions of Busan, Korea

High Rise Apartments on Haeundae Beach

This is my third trip to Korea (outside of airports) and first time to Korea’s second city, Busan. It is famous for its port, the largest in Korea and fifth busiest in the world. The 3.6 million inhabitants are squeezed in many huge apartment blocks between the steep green hills and the twisting bays of the Sea of Japan. It is only 120 miles from Honshu, the main island of Japan.

I was here for a meeting of the Association of International Schools in Asia athletic conference. We meet annually to review the year and decide on changes for the following year (s). Our hotel was near the largest beach in Busan, Haeundae Beach, the trendy tourist beach and regarded as the “best” in Korea. There were a lot of tourists, mostly Chinese and Korean, but I heard a lot of Russian too. There were three cruise ships in the port and it is a regular stop for cruises in this part of Asia.

The old and new of Busan

I always compare Korea to my current residence of Japan. In talking with a long-time foreign resident of Korea and Japan, he described Korea as a culture between China and Japan, but closer to China. I 100% agree with him. It is much louder and “grittier” than the quiet and refined Japan. I appreciate Korea’s connectivity – it may have the largest and fastest, free public wireless network in the world! Fantastic!

I only stayed for two nights but did get the opportunity to walk around the beach front and explore the Haeundae part of the city. The many stalls displaying aquariums live hagfish, a “slime-producing, eel-shaped marine fish” did not look appetizing, but were fascinating to watch. The old women in the morning selling the fishermen’s catch was the highlight of my run along the seas side. It felt a bit like Florida mixed with the Mediterranean, with many bars, restaurants and high rise apartments near the beach.

Haeundae Beach

Busan is a pleasant city, but with all of East Asia, the population density is too much for my taste. We had a good night out at a Korean BBQ restaurant and walking around soaking in the hustle and bustle of Haeundae Beach. I have enjoyed my visits to South Korea and I respect what the infrastructure and standard of living the Koreans have built. They had a rough time with not only the occupation of Japan and World War II, but also immediately followed by the Korean War which has not technically ended. It is interesting to consider the future of North Korea, China, Japan and South Korea. I wish them peace and prosperity.

Seafood Market
Haeundae Beach, Busan Korea
Women selling their catch in the morning

Spring Has Arrived!

Ocean and Oliver

Warm temperatures, flowers galore and sunny blue skies mark the arrival of spring after a long and cold winter. I spent as much time as I could outside the past two days. It is hard to be in a bad mood with such perfect days as this weekend.

I took Ocean and Oliver to get some photos done for our Uzbek visas. Our neighborhood of Onohara Nishi is so pleasant. With the sun setting and us laughing and talking, I just didn’t want the moment to end. It is such a privilege to be a father and I love my children so much. They are so funny and entertaining for me.

The path to school

Japan has thousands of narrow walking paths between houses. The path above leads from our house to Onohara Park #4 and our school. The neighbors maintain the path, picking up leaves, planting flowers, etc. It makes for a delightful commute to and from school. I am trying to savor the best of Japan as we only have 2 and 1/2 months left here before we leave forever.

Bike Ride in the Minoh Hills

My current obsession is cycling. I can’t get enough of it! I would bike for hours every day if I could. I went for a 25 kilometer ride on Saturday morning. The fresh air, blue skies and fresh, new green leaves made for an exhilarating ride through the Minoh Quasi National Park. My distances are getting longer and my times are getting shorter. Love, love, love biking and Japan is a perfect country for it. There is always a risk when cycling, but the drivers here are courteous and cautious, the roads are in mint condition and there are many bike lanes. I don’t think I will find better cycling conditions anywhere.

Ocean in front of the Onohara Family Mart

Of course, we had to make a stop at a conbini a staple of Japan. It seems like 1 of every 5 times I leave the house, I end up at some time in a convenience store. Today we needed passport photos and cold drinks.

Other activities this weekend were a 5 kilometer run with Nadia, the grade 4-5 dance and a passover celebration with friends. I will be blogging more about them soon.

Peak Cherry Blossom Season

It is peak cherry blossom (sakura) season in Osaka this week. I followed the Senri River yesterday on my bike ride to enjoy the blossoms and see the many picnics and parties taking place around cherry trees.

Kita Senri Park Sunday afternoon

Hanami, or “flower-viewing” is a long tradition in Japan. The change of seasons and the ephemeral nature of these changes plays a prominent role in Japanese culture. I saw hundreds of people holding picnics and playing in parks under the cherry trees.

There are thousands of cherry trees in Osaka. Most line rivers and canals, but they are also found alongside many streets and parks. We are finally having some nice weather after a cold March and so it was so pleasurable to ride a bike yesterday.

Cherry trees alongside the Senri River in Minoh

The Pleasure of Cycling!

Lots of open road in Minoh

I appreciate the ease of cycling in Japan and our location so close to the Minoh Quasi National Park. With safe drivers and well-built roads, cycling is so easy here! I don’t think I will live in a place again where I can ride daily just about anywhere. There are many dedicated bike and pedestrian paths. The infrastructure is better than in the USA with no broken glass, pot holes, garbage and other barriers to a smooth ride. I greatly appreciate being able to ride daily.

The view from the bridge over the Ai River

Cycling is good exercise and stress-relieving for me. It is also a time to spend with my children when I can convince one of them to go with me. Oliver and I did a ride at sunset on Friday to enjoy the sakura blossoms that are all over the city this week.

“Old man look” when taking a selfie

Oliver Begins Volleyball Season

The Senri & Osaka International Schools Sabers began their middle school volleyball season with a victory over Canadian Academy from Kobe yesterday. Nadia and I were impressed with his serving and twice he served the maximum five times for five points in the matches. They played six games and Oliver played in 3 of the 6.

Oliver is going through puberty right now and his body is developing rapidly. He is much stronger and athletic this year than in previous years. He enjoys the camaraderie of playing with his friends. The games are played on Saturday mornings in Japan because schools do not want to miss classes for traveling to games. It is a shame more parents and students do not attend the games, but most people do not like to come out on a Saturday morning.

It is such a pleasure to watch my children play team sports. Just having them in an activity and learning to be a good teammate is valuable.

Book Review: The Wall

Climate change has been on my mind since the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report was published last October. It predicted a likely 1.5 C rise in temperature between 2030 – 2052. That will hopefully be sometime in my lifetime. A change of +4 Celsius is predicted by the end of this century. I will be long gone, but I feel for my children and grand children. They will feel the brunt of it. All that I have experienced in my 50 years on planet earth is less snow in my birthplace of northern Michigan. However, I think more is coming. Reading the predicted effects of this rise in the report are concerning and I do not want to pass my later years and more importantly, the lives of my descendants in a greatly diminished natural world.

John Lanchester’s The Wall is set in the UK in a post-climate change future. It is sort of a science fiction book, but it is also an exciting thriller, with action scenes, a love story and a good plot. My only complaint about the book is I wish he would have written more! I will not spoil the ending, but I wanted to know more about what happens to the protagonists.

“The Wall” around Great Britain is to keep out “The Others” and all young people have a mandatory two-year service they need to guard the wall. If their section of the wall allows people over, they are set to sea. The story centers around a young man named Cavanaugh and his girlfriend Hifa.

Climate change has lessened the quality of life of all with rising seas taking away beaches and a lack of variety of agricultural crops. The younger generation has a real hate and disdain for the older generation that caused climate change. I think that was a bit unrealistic because climate change has been taking place for several generations and I don’t think they would be blamed. I read the book in less than a week during my bouts of insomnia an d highly recommend it!

Lanchester mentions the Elite, the ruling class of the future. They are the only people allowed to fly on planes and live separate lives from the majority of people. With income inequality as it is today, we are heading towards that future. I wish Lanchester would have written more about this class in the book.

But the thing I learned that week was how much nicer life could be if you had somebody else to do all the boring and difficult bits for you. Having Help was like having a life upgrade.

Lanchester, John, The Wall (2019)

If the Others survive getting over the wall, they are almost always caught and have the choice of being killed or becoming a slave (Help). Living these past five years in Japan with limited domestic help has made me understand this quote. I spend 2+ hours per day on chores around the house.

Age is a terrible thing, a terrible opponent. People of your time in life don’t understand this but you come to find it to be true, perhaps the only thing which is true for all humans everywhere, the terribleness of age. Our deepest piece of common humanity.

Visiting Hong Kong

Morning View of HK from the Avenue of the Stars

Hong Kong is one of the iconic exotic expatriate locales. The place has a vibrancy and bustle that one can feel. Because of the high population density, I wouldn’t want to live there, but for it is perfect for a week-long visit. 

It is over 20 years in Chinese control since the British handed it over in 1997. Hong Kong is considered a special administrative zone by the Chinese and it has its own visa regulations, currency, flag, etc. However, it is definitely under control from Beijing. As they are doing all over the world, Beijing has put in much infrastructure, including the world’s longest bridge to the other former foreign colony, Macau, which I visited in 2015. 

Star Ferry Crossing
Star Ferry Crossing

My friends, Malcolm and Ingela, former Hong Kong residents, showed us around so we got a good taste of the place. Crossing Victoria Harbor on the Star Ferry is according to my British friends, one of the things you have to do in life. After quick authentic fish n’ chips at the pier, we hopped on the 2.20 HK dollar old boat. We enjoyed the light show from the Kowloon side. 

I wish I had come here 30 years ago, instead of at age 51. The night life in the hills of Hong Kong island was extremely buzzing with young expatriates partying, Maseratis parked outside of Hard Rock and young people looking for a good time. It would have been fun if I was a young, single man. We met a couple of young female Hong Kongers taking donations from UNICEF. One of them is attending the University of Toronto. Being teachers, we had to ask about her schooling. In her engineering program, she enjoys the relaxed nature of the mathematics compared to her high school in Hong Kong. She said they get 3 minutes in Toronto to work through a problem, but in HK, one gets 30 seconds! 

Bamboo Scaffolding – Hong Kong Island

The islands of Hong Kong are quite mountainous and that limits the amount of land that people can live. It makes the population density even greater. There are escalators to assist getting people from the harbor up the mountain through the restaurant and bar districts. We didn’t get to the most expensive real estate in the world, the luxury apartments in the “peak” on top of the mountains of Hong Kong Island. The scale of the office buildings and apartments on Hong Kong rivals Manhattan, but even closer together. 

It was fun to pretend we were financial traders and bankers after work, sitting on the steps of the pier having a beer while looking at the Kowloon skyline. I think of the many Brits who did this through the years. 

Bar & Restaurant District

We only really saw the flashy, tourists parts of the city and I am sure there are poor and crowded apartment blocks. Nine million people squeezed into a small area is crazy and in the taxi ride to Lantau Island to Kowloon on my first night, the sheer massive walls of cubicle apartments is remarkable. So many people squeezed in such a small area. It must impact you view of the world. F

I was impressed with the internet connection in the hotels, convention centers, airport, etc. So much better than mainland China. It was cool to feel the power and rise of China, in the city and at the conference. Country number 66 in my life was fun to visit and I will fondly remember my brief time in Hong Kong.