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Journalist Anna Fifield tried to interview everyone who had interactions with the current North Korean dictator Kim Jong Un. She traveled to many of the places of significance to Kim Jong Un. Examples include traveling to Japan to interview the former chef and playmate of Kim Jong Un, a Japanese man who worked for the family for years. Or visiting the International School of Berne, where he attended for two years while Kim Jong Un lived with his aunt and uncle. Fifield is currently the Washington Post bureau chief in Beijing and previously reported on North Korea for many years with the Financial Times and the Washington Post. 

North Korea has always interested me. I can’t believe a family can repress an entire nation (get the population). How does this happen? Aren’t there enough people there that know it is all a sham and just take him out? The book reminded me of the authoritarian playbook Kim Jong Un used to keep the dynasty going and consolidate his rule.

1. Enrich and surround yourself with a small portion of the population whose wealth and lifestyle rely on keeping you in power. This should include elites in the military, police, natural resources, media, and other important parts of any society.
2. Get rid of any potential rivals to power so they stay as an elite or are eliminated.
3. Order the military, police, and internal affairs (intelligence) to quash any dissent through violence, jail, firing, etc.
4. Develop a nuclear arms program so big nations will not mess with you.

World War II helped start the dynasty. 80 years later, we are still dealing with the aftermath of that tumultuous time. The Soviets and fellow socialists China, controlled Northern Korea after Japan was defeated. The Soviets installed Jong Un’s grandfather, Kim il Sung, as the leader because they thought he was easy to control. He surprised them by developing a cult of personality, making up myths about his legendary war heroics, and suppressing a traumatized nation. I was angered reading that Kim il Sung begged the Soviets and Chinese to allow him to invade South Korea in 1950. Tens of thousands of US soldiers died in the Korean War because of this initiative. 

I could see how he bamboozled the country back then about how great he was against Japan during the war. People can be like sheep, easily led by misinformation. This was also before the internet, video, etc. where it is easier to find out the truth about con men. He was even able to pass power on to his son in 1994 and his grandson took over in 2011 on the death of his son. I laugh at his leadership trait of being filmed “dispensing pearls of wisdom on everything from agricultural methods to military tactics during publicity tours around the country during the on-the-spot guidance sessions.”

Kim Jong Un’s childhood was amazing. He was treated like a little “comrade general” and lived a life of absolute luxury, seclusion, and doted on my sycophants. I can see how this would change a person’s outlook on life. Jong Un loves basketball and that is what he did all the time. I loved basketball in my youth too, so we do have something in common. The Dennis Rodman visit was interesting and ended how it was expected, with Kim Jong Un becoming disillusioned with him.

Fifield details what a horrible person he is. He ordered the murder of his uncle and half-brother (see #2 above). Through selfishness and ineptitude, he starves the majority of the population. Dooming them to a life of depravity and boredom. He also sends a lot of people to prison for any minor infraction or questioning his rule (see #3 above). I don’t see a change in leadership anytime soon in North Korea. I would like to see a reunification of the peninsula in my lifetime like East and West Germany.

Last Sunday I made it to the top of Big Chimgan (3,309 meters / 10,856 feet). It was a brutal ascent, 7 kilometers basically straight up, climbing from 1,600 meters from the road. My Strava app recorded 5 hours and 30 minutes of walking time, an elevation gain of 1,675 meters (5,495 feet), and a total round trip of 14.19 kilometers. I am pleased that my 56 year old body can still do physical feats like this. I was dead exhausted at the end and kind of melted into the seat of my car. For the next few days, I could feel the lactic acid buildup in my thighs as I walked down any sets of stairs. A week later, I am fully recovered and look forward to some more mountain adventures.

We left Tashkent at 5:00 AM and drove to the village of Chimgan, about a 90 minute-drive from the city. We started walking from an old ski resort, just outside of the village of Chimgan. The first 5 kilometers of the hike is steep but pretty straight forward. It was mostly a dirt path winding through over-grazed grasses, with the occasional bush or small tree. The views of the Charvak Reservoir and the village of Chimgan, nestled in the valley were spectacular. It was a hard slog, I would take 20 steps or so, and then stop to breathe and take in the scenery. Uzbeks don’t really have proper switchbacks and a formal trail system like in North America. It is mostly walking along paths used by shepherds. Livestock is moved around mountain valleys up and down depending on the season. There are many paths worn down by generations of livestock minders. We saw a couple heards of sheep and horses and lots of droppings.

The last two kilometers is where it got rocky and interesting. Looking up at the peak, I couldn’t an easy route to the top. The guides led us on a windy route around huge outcroppings. We didn’t have to use ropes or crampons, but there were some technical sections that required using hands and feet to scramble over boulders. One section had a thick wire to assist climbers over a particularly steep cliff. I made it through without using the wire. I thank my yoga practice for my improved balance and flexibility.

It felt so good to finally make it to the top and ring the bell! Yes, some masochist did carry up an iron kettle bell you can seein the photo above. It makes for a great photo opportunity, holding the weight, while at the peak. We had a second lunch at the top and admired the incredible views of the mountains. You could see the snow-capped peaks of Krygstan in the distance. It is a huge, undeveloped area of mountains stretching for miles and it would be fun to keep going and explore the canyons and peaks.

Going back down for me was the hardest part. Because of the steepness of the trail and loose rock and gravel, it was very easy to slip and fall. Several of our party hit the ground. It was slow going for me as I didn’t want to incur and injury and slowly, we made it out of the rocky area and back to the tree line.

I would like to thank Katie for organizing the trip and my companions in the group who encouraged me to finish. We had a lot of laughs during our suffering and it made it more enjoyable. Would I do it again? Not anytime soon, but it would be good to try it in the spring or summer when it is a bit greener. It was a once in a lifetime experience and it was one of my big goals while I am living in Uzbekistan. Another of my goals is to circumnavigate the Charvak Reservoir by bicycle.

I had a nice time this week taking out Oliver, Ocean, and Oliver’s girlfriend Nicole. Nadia joined us earlier this week as we went to the Loft Cafe for burgers and fries. It was funny that we tried twice to have Indian food at the Curry House, and both times they were closed. Last night I took them shopping at Korzinka Supermarket. I always made a rule when they were little, that they get one “treat” each when we go grocery shopping. Even though they are 18 and 16, they still ask for that one treat still! Oliver and Ocean are masters at fudging the 1 treat rule and they sneak in a bit more.

It was the first day of school in Uzbekistan on Monday this week. They still follow the Russian traditions of bringing flowers to the teacher starting on the first Monday in September. Above you can see a mom with her daughter on the way to one of the local public schools. We live between two schools, one at each end of our block. The first-day tradition is to have the oldest and youngest students of the school “ring the bell” to kick off the school year.

I also had a nice plov lunch on Monday. We went to the Dunyo Restaurant. The business office staff invited me and our consultant, Jon. I love the camaraderie and good food and it is a fantastic cultural experience for people new to Uzbekistan. We had the Kashkadarya plov, which has horse sausage on top and brown oil. Delicious!

On Sunday I participated in the Yangi Nafas (New Breath) 10-kilometer race here in Tashkent. Yangi Nafas races were held in 16 cities around Uzbekistan to celebrate Independence Day. It is an appropriate name as Uzbekistan is a young country (32 years) and 60% of the population is under 20 years old. The Uzbek Athletics Federation used the slogan, “One country, one start, one distance, one goal – we run together”. I think mass races are a custom left over from the Soviet Union to celebrate anniversaries or big sporting events.

The race was well organized! It started on time (6:30 AM) and the course was well-marked with water stops along the way. It was a confetti start with an impressive Start/Finish arch. There were even cheerleaders at the halfway point and at the finish to lift the spirits of the runners. The course was a big L-shaped up and back through two of the widest boulevards in the city so it wasn’t the most exciting course, but it was flat, smooth with plenty of room.

I redeemed myself from my horrible run this summer in the Bass Festival by running a 50:51, cutting 9 minutes from my time. I know I can go under 50 minutes and my goal is to get to 45 minutes in a 10-kilometer. The next big race is in Samarkand in November, but not sure if I will go due to Oliver’s soccer.

Uzbekistan has a nice series of long-distance races throughout the year. Anchored by big races such as the Bukhara night race in August, Samarkand in November, Tashkent in March, and Zaamin in June , a runner can always have something to train for. There are also smaller runs like the Yangi Nafas, and there are also big races in Astana, Almaty, Bishkek, and neighboring Central Asian countries.

Nadia, Obi, and I celebrated Uzbekistan Independence Day (September 1) by enjoying the best of Uzbekistan, the mountains! Led by our friend Aaron, we did a 5-mile hike in the foothills between Gazelkent and Chirchiq. It was a cool and sunny day and an absolutely perfect way to spend a free Friday.

We drove to the village of Chekhchim which is located about 60 kilometers from Tashkent. It is next to the Aksakatasay River. There is a trail that leads up the hills and we did a loop around a valley. It looked a bit like southern California because of the long, hot summer has dried out all vegetation. It was a bit of a dusty walk, but the cool breeze and blue skies kept our spirits up. Nadia is still recovering from a very bad virus and struggled a bit on the long, steep incline to the ridge. Once we were at the top, we stopped for lunch and watched the cowboys guide their herds of sheep to different pastures. There is always lots of livestock in Central Asia.

It is just so nice to get out of the city and between the distance and elevation, it was a good workout. It is a sign of our stage of life that we couldn’t get Oliver and Ocean to come with us. Both of them preferred either soccer with their friends or going out in the city. It was a preview of us as empty nesters. 😦 I want to thank Aaron for guiding us and finding this beautiful spot.

I noticed if you drive further up the valley, you can possibly reach the huge valley behind the Amirsoy Ski Resort. We could see the gondolas in the far distance on the hike. I’ve looked over that valley while on the top of Amirsoy, and it looks remote and beautiful. Perhaps next time I am in the mountains, I’ll make it to that valley.

We finished the day by going out to the Afsona restaurant. The salads and shashlik (grilled, skewered meats) were delicious and it was a perfect way to end the day.

There was unseasonably cool and overcast weather this week as August 2023 came to an end. Tashkent has a Mediterranean climate and August and September are usually dry, sunny, and hot. I was able to wear a tie at school and we enjoyed outdoor dinners at home the week. My wife Nadia had an atypia-classified mole removed from her neck. The Tashkent International Clinic right next door to the school is like our own personal medical clinic. Dr. Inom is our family doctor and he always calms Nadia. She is recovering and also feeling better after having a long, strong cold for the past couple of weeks.

Both Oliver and Ocean started their soccer seasons this week. I drove Oliver to school on Monday and watched a bit of his practice before classes started. Our school plays 7-man soccer due to the small sizes of the schools in Central Asia. Oliver looked good and is rapidly improving his game. They have a new coach this year but the team returns many of its key players from last year. They should have a successful season. I am soaking up any opportunity to spend time with him this year.

I love my dog Obi and he loved the cool weather this week. He does not do well in the heat. I like the narrow streets of the neighborhoods of Tashkent, a holdover from pre-Soviet times. The Russians preferred wide boulevards and they are common in our section of the city, Mirabad. Above are some photos of our walks this week.

We have a long weekend to celebrate Uzbekistan’s independence. I registered for a 10-kilometer run on Sunday. I hope my calf does not tighten. I went for a run a couple of nights ago and experienced tightness in my left calf at the 7-kilometer mark. I’ll see how it goes.

We just completed our second week of school, our first complete 5-day week. I feel better, finally getting over almost a 3-week cold. Both Nadia and I tested and it was not COVID or influenza, but a very strong cold virus. My mucous membranes produced an overabundance of phlegm for the entire 3 weeks. I unfortunately gave the cold to Nadia who is in week 2 of symptoms. She has been miserable and hopefully, she too, will be feeling more like herself sooner rather than later. She had a complete breakdown of her immune system with an ear infection and other issues. It is going around the city with many parents and employees reporting similar symptoms. As you can see in the photo below, Nadia was not feeling 100%

On a more positive note, I went shopping with Ocean, Oliver, and Nicole and we bought soccer shoes and equipment so they are ready for the season. It was fun taking them to DY Sports and helping them find the right gear. Oliver is entering his final season in grade 12 and has really developed an interest and ability in soccer. He plays a lot of FIFA Premier League Soccer e-sport and fantasy soccer. This has actually improved his physical soccer and I am really looking forward to his season. I am concerned about his feet however because he easily gets blisters. He has had this problem for several years and we’ve tried a variety of shoes. Nadia also bought some protective foot gear as well, and we’ll try that again. This will be Ocean’s first time out for the soccer team and I hope she has a good experience. I love watching my children compete in interscholastic sports. All young people should have the experience of participating in a team sport. Being a part of something bigger than yourself is good for you.

Michigan Senator Gary Peters was in Tashkent yesterday on a tour of Central Asia. He is the chair of the Homeland Security and Governmental Affairs Committee. The Senate committee has a broad range of responsibilities, both national and international, so I think his tour was part of his work as chair of the committee. I was invited to have lunch with him as the token Michigander! Senator Peters was down-to-earth and funny. He mentioned he had been through my hometown of Iron River on a motorcycle tour recently and we both agreed that it is a shame that so many young people leave the Upper Peninsula, like I did. Peters is a Democrat and won in 2020 by only 1.7%. Michigan is a “blue state” but only by a narrow margin. I am an independent voter and choose politicians by who they are as a person and look at their beliefs and voting record. I am pleased that Michigan recently has been more progressive than nearby states like Wisconsin and Ohio and hope that it continues in that direction. He was friendly and I was honored to meet him and get my photograph with him.

The summer weather is cooling a bit with temperatures in the morning in the high 60s and highs in the low 90s. Cool weather (high of 75) and rain are coming Sunday, so looking forward to the change.

The Tashkent International School starts earlier than most schools in the USA but is in line with many international schools. Our first day of classes was this past Tuesday, August 15. This is a special year for us as it is the last that we will have our middle son, Oliver with us. He is a senior and a member of the Class of 2024. We will be down to 1 child at home, with our oldest son Owen, leaving with the Class of 2021. We miss him dearly and will be falling apart all over again next June when Ollie graduates. I am making a point to spend as much time with him as possible.

As you can see in the photo above, I am the only morning person in the Kralovec household. Oliver is not too bad in the mornings like me, but Nadia, Ocean, and Owen don’t function too well early in the day. I had to be at school early on the first day, but on the second day, we took the traditional first day of school photo in our back garden. It is such a wonderful aspect of working in education that Nadia and I get to go to work with our children instead of seeing them go off to school and only meet them in the evenings. It is comforting and special to see them through the day. I did manage to video Oliver and Ocean coming to school on the first day. I had morning gate duty where I greet the students, employees and parents as they arrive. It is nice to see Oliver and Ocean every morning.

Rarely in life am I truly awestruck, but last Saturday night was one of those moments. Living in a city of 3 million people, light pollution blocks out most of the night sky. We see the major planets and some stars, but nothing compared to camping in the mountains outside of the city. We spent an evening stargazing while camping in the mountains overlooking the town of Tavaksay. We were looking for meteors from the Perseid meteor shower was in full view that evening. Our group did see around 14 meteors, but we also saw Elon Musk’s Starlink satellite train going through the sky.

I didn’t know what I was looking at! I thought it was an alien ship in the shape of a snake. I was amazed at this. I learned later that Space X, Musk’s space company, has over 4,500 satellites orbiting the earth right now, which is over 65% of the total number of satelites in orbit. I encourage you to listen the the New York Times The Daily podcast which I linked to above. The satellites are close together so internet signals can be beamed down to stations on earth continuously. The Ukrainians are using them the communicate in the war against Russia. What a sight and it will be a moment I will never forget. These trains have been going for a while and I am surprised I never heard of them before. My daughter Ocean caught them on films, as did the a camera in Hawaii that the BBC featured in a recent video. The ancients only had the stars to look at in the evenings. Today with electricity and digital entertainment, humans rarely look in the sky. Our camping trip reminded me of the beauty of the night sky and astronomy. I should take some more time looking at the night sky.

Sitting on a blanket with between Ocean, Oliver, and Nadia was pure heaven for me. I am savoring the precious moments we have with our children as they soon will be away to university, careers, spouses, and their own families. It was a special night and we will definitely do more camping this year. You can free-range camp almost anywhere in the mountains or deserts of Uzbekistan. Sunset is magic time here and there are few spots in the world more beautiful. I highly recommend getting out into the countryside of this beautiful country.

A final highlight of the trip was photographing this Corsac Fox on my Sunday morning walk to the waterfall.

Tavaksay is a canyon in the Ugam mountain range. The Ugams about an 1-hour to 1 and 1/2 hour drive north east of Tashkent. The Ugam range is the far western part of the Tian Shan (Mountains of Heaven) Range. As you can see in the map below, the Tien Shan range is connected to the Pamirs of Tajikistan which eventually leads to the Himalayas of India and Tibet.

The rapid growth and development of Tashkent is amazing to watch. In the four years I’ve lived in the city, the amount of new businesses and apartment blocks is astounding. It has caused strains on the infrastructure such as much more traffic, lack of electricity and heating fuel for all, etc. On the positive side, it has made life here much more pleasant with better restaurants and cafes and more things to do and see. It seems like every couple of weeks a new business is opening. When I went to pick up my bicycle from the mechanic earlier this week, Nadia and I noticed that the British Coffee chain, Costa Coffee opened a store in the mall near Eco Park. Costa Coffee was founded by an Italian guy (Mr. Costa) living in London back in the 1970s. They bought a Polish chain, CoffeeHeaven years ago and had a lot of shops in Eastern Europe. We used to go to Costa Coffee when we lived in Belgrade, Serbia. Today, it is the second-largest chain of coffee shops after Starbucks. I had an excellent nitro cold brew and Nadia enjoyed a piece of cheesecake.

On the flip side, in some ways, Tashkent has a long way to go to become a modern, capitalistic city. The former president, Islam Karimov kept the economy tightly under wraps in the post-USSR independence. I was walking Obi the other night when I came upon these two cows, tied up in front of a house located very close to the backside of our school. It reminded me of the stories my mother used to tell of her childhood when she had to go up to the cow pasture in my village of Caspian and collect the family cow to put in the yard overnight. That was probably in the 1940s. No one in my village today has a family cow and the young people growing up in Caspian probably do not refer to the hill as the “cow pasture” anymore. We called it the cow pasture thanks to our parents who remembered that time. I don’t think you would see cows in many European cities. This is one of the reasons I enjoy living here and having adventures overseas.

The start of the school year for an administrator is incredibly busy. This week we welcomed returning faculty and took the annual staff photograph. I am looking forward to school year and seeing the students!