Bill's Blog

Nadia wanted to do a classic Americana summer road trip. The USA is a huge country, tied with China for the third largest in the world by area. My current resident country is Uzbekistan ranked #56 in the world. 21 Uzbekistans could fit into the USA. Mylifelsewhere.com has a nice feature to compare the sizes of places. Below is a map of Uzbekistan superimposed on Michigan, my home state. We drove from my hometown in the western part of the Upper Peninsula of Michigan (the “rabbit” shape above Wisconsin) to Washington DC and back. The light blue line was our route from Caspian, Michigan to Washington DC and the orange route was our way back. As I write this blog post, I sit in the Wyndham Hotel in Ellicottville, New York, 45 miles south of Buffalo, New York.

We first stopped in Green Bay, Wisconsin for two nights to see Saint Norbert College in DePere, Wisconsin. Oliver will be attending SNC next month and we wanted to visit the campus. I’ll blog more about that later. We then drove to Huron, Ohio to rest before completing the drive to DC. We ran into a lot of traffic going around Chicago and tropical depression Beryl caused a steady rain most of the day. We planned on taking a break at the Indiana Dunes National Park. The 15 miles of “protected” Lake Michigan coastline was pleasant, but not as spectacular as the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore or Sleeping Bear Sand Dunes, two other protected areas on the Great Lakes. The city of Gary and the rest of northern Indiana is industrial and poor so I guess having a national park there gives locals a cheap summer holiday. I wouldn’t recommend going, however. It looked like the beaches of Singapore, with refineries, ports, and steel mills seen prominently in the distance on both sides of the park.

I had a delightful evening walk and morning swim in the small town of Huron, Ohio. I love the Great Lakes and I don’t think I ever swam in Lake Erie. Huron gets its name from the 15-mile river that empties into Lake Erie. Like many small towns in America, it has seen better days economically. The interstate system eliminated tourists driving through the town. City officials developed a marina and have plans to do more with the waterfront. The city has lost 14% of its population since the turn of the century. It is a pleasant place to hang out for the day, however, and much quieter than nearby Sandusky, Ohio, home to a Jersey Shore-style amusement park. The rest of the drive was uneventful, with the one observation that Pennsylvania is much more beautiful than neighboring Ohio and Indiana. The Appalachian Mountains create pretty views of the valleys and forested hills which are lacking in Ohio.

On the way back we stopped in Ellicottville, New York for the night. This is my first time in upstate New York and I wanted to compare it to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. It looks similar although it is much more busy than the more remote UP. Elliotcotville has a nice ski resort right outside the quaint downtown and I read where property values have risen due to Canadians from Toronto buying vacation homes. It is only 45 minutes south of Buffalo, New York, home of the NFL’s Buffalo Bills. I’ll report more on the trip when we return to Marquette.

Washington DC is an amazing city and one of the major seats of power in the USA. I got to see a bit of the movers and shakers in the city when we visited the McChrystal Group during our the Leadership Possibilities and Paradoxes Project sponsored by the US State Department. We read former General Stanley McChrystal’s book, Team of Teams, and got the opportunity to discuss the book at their headquarters in their headquarters in Alexandria, Virginia and receive a presentation by one of their consultants.

After retiring from military service, McChrystal started a business management consulting firm that helps companies collaborate better. They work mostly with larger companies like petroleum companies and large pharmaceutical companies. It was nice to get to experience this as a leader of a non-profit. They were great hosts and it was a fascinating glimpse into the world of the military and of high-powered, executive consulting services.

The experiences of leading the Joint Special Operations Task Force in Iraq and Afghanistan are much different than leading a K-12 international school learning community. However, working with people and solving complex problems in ever-changing environments is the same. The idea of a leader as gardener resonated with us and it is funny that a leader whose main goal is to kill enemy combatants, takes a nurturing approach to managing people, the same as a school. We had a long conversation about the Team of Teams (I blogged about it on my professional blog “Global School Leadership”. Looking back at my life, I would have liked to have had a military experience after college as I was immature and I think it would have helped me develop faster.

My major takeaway from the experience besides all of good ideas for leadership was to focus on my physical fitness and body. I strongly believe that a healthy body improves my thinking and empathy. Professor John reminded me of Thomas Jefferson’s take on this. Jefferson is right that ball games at my age are risky, but the idea of moving daily for 2 hours is good advice. For me its 1 hour of yoga and 1 hour of walking my dog, jogging, or lifting weights. I am setting a goal for next year to be more active.

1785 August 19. (Jefferson to Peter Carr). “Encourage all your virtuous dispositions, and exercise them whenever an opportunity arises, being assured that they will gain strength by exercise as a limb of the body does, and that exercise will make them habitual. … Give about two of them [hours] every day to exercise; for health must not be sacrificed to learning. A strong body makes the mind strong. As to the species of exercise, I advise the gun. While this gives a moderate exercise to the body, it gives boldness, enterprize, and independance to the mind. Games played with the ball and others of that nature, are too violent for the body and stamp no character on the mind. Let your gun therefore be the constant companion of your walks. Never think of taking a book with you. The object of walking is to relax the mind. You should therefore not permit yourself even to think while you walk. But divert your attention by the objects surrounding you. Walking is the best possible exercise. Habituate yourself to walk very far. The Europeans value themselves on having subdued the horse to the uses of man. But I doubt whether we have not lost more than we have gained by the use of this animal. No one has occasioned so much the degeneracy of the human body. An Indian goes on foot nearly as far in a day, for a long journey, as an enfeebled white does on his horse, and he will tire the best horses. There is no habit you will value so much as that of walking far without fatigue. I would advise you to take your exercise in the afternoon. Not because it is the best time for exercise for certainly it is not: but because it is the best time to spare from your studies; and habit will soon reconcile it to health, and render it nearly as useful as if you gave to that the more precious hours of the day. A little walk of half an hour in the morning when you first rise is adviseable also. It shakes off sleep, and produces other good effects in the animal œconomy.”
https://www.monticello.org/research-education/thomas-jefferson-encyclopedia/exercise/#fn

McChrystal is devoted to fitness and he looked great for age 69. He surprised us by coming into the office at the end of our time in their headquarters.

We had our first visit to St. Norbert College in DePere, Wisconsin. My son Oliver will be starting there next month and we were excited to see the school. The staff at SNC gave us first-class treatment and we felt welcome. Oliver made the right choice of school! SNC is a private, Catholic, liberal arts college of approximately 1,800 students located on a beautiful campus on the banks of the Fox River.

The big trees, the flowing river, and the brick buildings of the campus create a feeling of serenity. The city of DePere is cute and has beautiful neighborhoods across the river and near the school. DePere is a suburb of Green Bay, home of the NFL’s Green Bay Packers. The metro area has a population of over 300,000 people, so it is not too big and offers many of the amenities of a city. We have many friends and families in Green Bay and close by, so Oliver will have support if needed.

The school is also special because my father graduated from SNC in 1954. He fondly recalled his time there and would be delighted for his grandson to attend his alma mater. The school and DePere have changed in the 70 years since he graduated. The staff gave us a great day and we met with the volleyball coach, ROTC officials, and the admissions team. Both Nadia and I feel Oliver will be taken care of with a personal touch and am glad he is attending a smaller university. We would like to thank Eric Wagner, from admissions for his care and attention in the application process.

Visiting the beautiful St. Joseph Church in the center of campus sparked my curiosity about the Norbertine Order of the Catholic Church. Nadia and I were raised in strongly Catholic families and felt at home in the church. I was inspired by my father’s commitment to the service of others, which was probably partly instilled in him during his time at St. Norbert. The world needs people thinking of others and I hope Oliver will be inspired by the spirit of Saint Norbert College to serve humanity.

We are planning to go back to set up Oliver’s dorm room before we leave. It is heartbreaking to see another one of our children leave the family home. He is ready to forge his own path to adulthood and experience the ups and downs of adult life. We love you, Oliver!

The colon is a 1.5-meter tube that makes up most of the large intestine. Its purpose is to absorb salt and water from the remaining food as it leaves the small intestine. The waster matter that is left after traveling the long distance through the colon moves into the rectum, the final 15 centimeters of the digestive system, and is stored as stool until it passes through the anus during a bowel movement. The colon takes about 36 hours to fully process food. The average human has a bowel movement 3 times per week. The more fiber a person eats and if they drink enough water, it speeds up the process. Digesting food, absorbing nutrients, and getting rid of waste after these processes are what humans do.

I thought a lot about this process the past couple of days because I went in for a colonoscopy yesterday. This topic is not one that people usually talk about but I see this blog post as a kind of public service announcement, especially for men who tend to resist taking care of their health. Thanks to the loving persistence of my wife Nadia, I finally took the plunge and got it done.

What are the risks of colon and rectal cancer? The American Cancer Society (ACS) puts males at 1 in 23 (~4%) of contracting colorectal cancer in their lifetimes. There are over 150,000 cases of this type of cancer diagnosed annually in the USA. The number of deaths is decreasing because people are more aware of screening. ACS recommends regular colorectal cancer screening from age 45 to 75 for people of average risk. There are different screening tests. Three only involve sending in a stool sample. The other three are visual examinations. The most thorough screening is a colonoscopy where a doctor inserts a tube the width of a finger into the anus, through the rectum, and all the way to the end of the colon. Thankfully this is done under sedation and is painless. (see diagram below)

It is a hassle to get a colonoscopy! The worst part for me was the cleansing of the large intestine so the doctor could get a clear look at the inside surface. Five days before the exam, I needed to stop eating food with fiber. I discovered much of my diet is fiber, which is good for a healthy colon! No fiber means no fruit, vegetables, and nuts which I estimate make up 3/4 of my diet. I was limited to foods like tofu, eggs, milk/cheese, white rice, white bread, and cooked meats. The day before the exam, I could not eat solid foods, so it was a day of chicken broth soup and jello. I also needed to drink an entire bottle of Miralax powder, a laxative. The recommendation provided by the hospital stated to start at 5:00 PM. I would have started much earlier because, throughout the night, I was going to the toilet. I fully understand the amount of waste that can fit into a 1.5-meter tube! Towards the end of the process, I was releasing an almost clear liquid with a unique odor. I didn’t feel lighter or better, just annoyed at the hassle of every few minutes having to go to the toilet.

On the day of the procedure, I was asked not to eat or drink anything. I was the last patient scheduled at the Bell Memorial Hospital in Ishpeming on that day. I was asked to come in at 12:45 PM, but due to delays in the morning, I didn’t get into the operating room until 5:00 PM. So that meant two days of fasting. I had a slight headache, probably due to a lack of coffee.

The best part of the colonoscopy was getting knocked out by anesthesia. This was my first time and I feel fortunate that the only time I’ve been in an operating room was to film the birth of my children. The doctor assistant asked me to roll on my side and the anesthesiologist put a drug in my IV and said I would be out in about 30 seconds. I remember looking at the tiles on the wall and suddenly, they started to gently sway back and forth and I was out. I woke up back in the prep room with my son Oliver and brother Jimmer next to my bed. It felt like no time passed at all which is strange. One moment I am drifting off to sleep, the next I am awake in the prep room. I think an hour or so passed, but it felt instantaneous. I am fascinated by the whole science or art of anesthesia. Why do we lose consciousness? How did medical science figure all this out? Why don’t we feel pain or discomfort? What input is the brain receiving while someone is under? I need to read a book about the history of it and the future of the science. I know anesthesiologists make a lot of money and I can see why. Putting someone under is dangerous, even though it is a common practice.

The doctor said I had an average colon and rectum and he removed one polyp. Polyps are growths that occur in the large intestines that can become cancerous. The polyp tissue will now be checked in the lab to see if it is cancerous or benign. The doctor predicted that most likely it is OK and recommended my next screening in 10 years. I am now 57 years old, so mental note, at age 67 to get it checked again. I am fortunate to have good health insurance and the luxury of a thorough colorectal screening. I am at low risk because of my healthy diet, lots of exercise, maintaining my weight, being a non-smoker, drinking little alcohol, and rarely eating little red or processed meats.

I would like to thank the medical staff at the Bell Memorial Hospital in Ishpeming for taking good care of me! I also thank my health insurance company for covering the cost of the procedure. I am also grateful for my son Oliver and brother Jimmer, who spent the day with me, supporting me emotionally and psychologically. It is good to be loved!

One of my favorite of the 314 lakes in Iron County, Michigan is Timber Lake. I love it because it is undeveloped with no lake homes or cottages, no motorized boats allowed on the lake and the only access is a 1/2 mile hike. A narrow walking trail circles the lake and leads to three rough camping areas. My brother Jimmer and I had the lake to ourselves on a cool, overcast afternoon on the last day of June. The water was warmer than the air and we enjoyed a nice swim. The highlight was being approached by a common loon.

I wish more lakes in Iron County were undeveloped like this. I know people enjoy having lake homes, but I would prefer everyone to live in town and leave the lakes and rivers wild. Jim and I love freshwater, inland lakes in the Upper Peninsula. I am not a fisherman, I just love silent sports (cycling, hiking, swimming, cross-country skiing, kayaking) and moving through the wilderness.

I bought a road bike for 100 dollars on Facebook Marketplace. I tested it on the Chicagoan Lake Trail riding 25 kilometers in just over one hour. I hope to go out some more while I am in the UP.

Ocean and I ran the 3.22-kilometer Bessemer, Michigan, Hometown Road Race. She doesn’t like distance running and getting up early in the morning, but Ocean came along because she loves me. I loved running with her and we finished the race in under 18 minutes. Bessemer is a little town (1,805 people) located northwest of Caspian, in neighboring Gogebic Country. The race started at the new town hall downtown and finished on the main street. I wanted to run the 10-kilometer, but I could only get her to do the 2-mile run. We went for coffee and chai lattes at Contrast Coffee in Ironwood and explored downtown. Ironwood officials have done a good job in preserving their downtown buildings amid population decline. They also market the outdoors of the area well. I think having Gogebic Community College in the town helps. They are closer to Lake Superior and get a lot of snow so year-round, it is a very cool place to live. It is a 1 hour and 17 minute drive from my driveway to the race start. I played baseball against Bessemer High School in the early 1980s. Visiting their beautiful Massie Baseball Field brought back a lot of memories.

My priority this week is supporting my son in getting his driver’s license. We completed the paperwork on Friday and the Secretary of State (Michigan’s version of the Department of Motor Vehicles) issued him a driver’s permit. After July 28, he can take the driving test to get his license. He wants to be a Michigan resident and is using our home in Caspian as his official address. He is shown below getting his photo for the license. He is becoming an adult! A special thanks to my friend from high school Amy, who is in charge of the office in Iron River for helping us. It is always a bit tricky for us as global nomads.

One of the nice things about a UP summer is the availability of tennis courts. I played three times last week at Nelson Field. The courts are open to the public, free-of-charge, and without many people playing, there are always courts available without a reservation. I am getting excited about Wimbledon starting this week. Oliver and I played two sets (6-2, 6-3) and we had a great time. Tennis is one of my loves and am happy that Oliver is still around to the play with me. Nadia and I played a couple of times as well.

The Upper Peninsula of Michigan (UP) is in the center of “The North Woods” of Michigan, Wisconsin, Minnesota, and southern Ontario (see map below). The World Wildlife Fund classifies it as the terrestrial ecoregion known as “Western Great Lakes Forest”. The region has a Humid Continental Climate that is marked by cold winters, cool summers, and precipitation throughout the year. The weather is the toughest part of living here with long, bitterly cold winters, mid-summer frosts, and cold rains at any time. One of the nice aspects of the climate is the characteristic summer thunderstorms that come through the region, especially in the evenings. As I get older I appreciate the smaller things and life and the sound of thunder and rain brings back memories of my childhood. We stay in my childhood home when we are here and watching the sky light up and hearing the thunder last night was so pleasant. I went outside and filmed a bit of the night sky in my neighborhood. (above)

We spent most of the past two days taking care of our car. Riverside Auto in Marquette replaced the brake rotors and pads. The rear brakes were not working and the front brakes were very worn. It was easy to diagnose because of the scraping sounds the car was making. They gave us a loaner car (Nissan Sentra) to assist in our 90-minute drive between Caspian and Marquette. The Riverside service team also inspected the entire vehicle and it is ready to go for our big family road trip we are taking in July. The service manager was quite nice and explained to us they were short of certified mechanics and other service people. They just can’t find people to work.

After getting our car back and have an OK meal at Texas Roadhouse restaurant, we went for a walk on the beach at Shiras Park. It was an unusually warm evening in Marquette with a warm breeze, not the usual cold winds. There were a lot of people on the beach, not many in the water, though and it made for a delightful post-dinner walk.

Before leaving for Marquette, Oliver and I visited the Secretary of State and started the process of getting a driver’s license and for him to be a registered voter in Michigan. Always much to do when we are in the USA for such a short time.

As I get further into my 50s I am taking better care of my health. I am trying to stretch my productive and active years as far as they can go. I am watching my diet, which is the hardest thing to do, doing more exercise, and monitoring my health with medical professionals as much as I can. When I go back to the USA, I seek a lot of medical care to get second opinions. I am experiencing pain in my shoulder joints especially my left one for about a month and a half now. It is not debilitating but it does hurt once in a while, especially when I sleep on it or do some movements, pushups, running, cycling, etc. Thankfully my right shoulder is fine and I can play tennis. I am blogging my health to help me and future doctors provide care to me.

Above is the MRI I got in Uzbekistan. My doctor here in Michigan was impressed with the quality and said it was the same quality as Michigan hospitals. He was shocked that it cost me around $50. He diagnosed no major red flags requiring surgery. He pointed out inflammation in the tendon above the joint socket. On the MRI it was lighter in color on the left side. It is an impingement problem when the tissue is inflamed, it is trapped between two hard surfaces. He said I could get surgery and he would shave the bone spur and try to clean the socket and strengthen the tendons. However, he did not recommend this and gave me a cortisone shot and told me that I should be able to continue doing pushups, etc. I have a full range of motion, strength in the joint, and mild pain symptoms. He also indicated that research didn’t show much with sleep position and suggested perhaps it was a psycho-somatic mind trick. When I sleep on my side, I feel that some positions pinch my shoulder so I don’t think it is my mind, but we’ll see. I slept like a baby and my shoulder feels brand new today!

The second MRI image shows the ball of cysts on the bone. He said they are not causing me pain and they do not need to be removed. I appreciated his opinion and care. I felt he had my best interests in his mind and that I was in good hands. Thanks Dr. JD! I’ll monitor my shoulder this summer and see how it goes.