My Thoughts on Japan

Japan will always have a special place in our hearts as we lived in Osaka from 2014 to 2019. I reflected on my time here shortly after departing in the summer of 2019. (Farewell Japan) We decided to come back for our Winter Break mostly for the kids so they could reflect on their time here. Nostalgia has a way of romanticizing a place and they were here during their formative years, so I think it was good to have all of us visit it again. We had a great holiday here, although, as I always say, as long as I am with family and friends, it does not matter where I am, I will enjoy vacation time! We stayed close to our former neighborhood and relived many of the streets, and trails and visited with old friends.

Last month, Ian Bremmer in his excellent PBS program G Zero World, interviewed the current US ambassador to Japan on his podcast “Unpacking the Complicated US-Japan Relationship“. My father regarded Japan as a mortal enemy after the bombing of Pearl Harbor in his childhood. Today Japan is one of our strongest allies, especially against China. In one generation there was a complete reversal of the relationship between the USA and Japan. Japan is a stable democracy that values human rights and is on the American side in the global division between the Americas/Europe vs. China/Russia/Iran. I think it is special that the two countries have turned from enemies to friends.

The visit reminded me of the distinctiveness of Japan. There is no other place like it and even its closest equivalent, South Korea, is much more like the rest of East Asia than Japan. I appreciate differences and it is good to have a place like Japan in the world. What other country designs sewer covers based on what suburb they are located in or if the firefighters use them? The attention to detail and focus on their surroundings truly astounds me.

One aspect I don’t miss is the small size of the Japanese homes. The entire ground floor of the house we are renting these two weeks is slightly smaller than our living room/dining room in Uzbekistan. There is a lack of privacy within the home and I understand why there are so many hotels people can rent by the hour. Coming down the steep, narrow stairs in the morning to turn on the heaters in a very cold house. I always said it is like living on the seasonal porch in an American home. The idea of “feeling the seasons” sounds great, but living it is not.

Ina River

I love the fresh air and blue skies of Japan. In the winter especially, the skies are so blue. I also used an electric bicycle for the first time and think that it could convince Americans to use a bicycle more for their daily errands and activities. The winter fresh air was invigorating as I cycled often through my old routes I loved when I lived here. Not much has changed. I also loved the juxtaposition between our suburban nature town of Minoh and the megacity of Osaka downtown.

Osaka Tower

Earthquakes will always be prevalent. We were reminded of the Osaka Earthquake of June 2018 that we lived through when there was an equivalent earthquake on New Year’s Day afternoon in the Noto Peninsula. Fortunately, the epicenter was over 400 kilometers away from us instead of 10 kilometers like in 2018. Our house swayed back and forth gently for over a minute while we were having lunch. 57 people died and there was a lot of destruction on the other side of main island of Honshu. There is no way of getting away from earthquakes as Japan is directly on the Pacific Ring of Fire.

I am not sure when I will get back to Japan again. Sayyonara!

Family Journal: January 1, 2024 – Hike to Katsuoji Temple

The Kralovec Family Daruma

We kicked off the New Year with a hike to Katsuoji Temple. It is our favorite temple in Japan! The temple is located in the hills of Minoh Park, a huge forested set of hills and valleys just on the outskirts of the urban sprawl of Osaka. We all spent a lot of time in Minoh Park, cycling and hiking through the beautiful Sugi forests. In certain areas in the park, one can see deer and monkeys and it is nice to have nature so close to the metropolis of Osaka. It is a perfect hike starting from our old house, it is about a 4-kilometer walk (2.5 miles) up the mountain on a clearly marked trail. Japanese people in the early days of the New Year, visit their local temple to pray for good fortune in the upcoming year and pay respects to their ancestors. This is called hatsumode. It is a befitting way to start a year. I loved getting the family together to exercise and to reflect on what is coming up in 2024.

Nadia and Ocean with their luck charms

We purchased lucky charms to bring us money, safety while driving, luck on school exams, and one lucky wish. We attached the charms to the complimentary bamboo branch we received upon entrance to the temple. We lit a candle and incense for our ancestors, both dead and alive. We skipped the prayers at the shrines because the lines were too long. Rain interspersed stretches of sunshine throughout the day but it was not heavy and the walking warmed us up.

I love Katsuoji because, unlike many temples in Japan, it is located in a wilderness area and not overcrowded like many temples during New Year’s celebrations. The Emperor Seiwa erected the Buddhist temple 1,260 years ago and named it katsu, which means “winning” in Japanese. For centuries, warlords and common people have come to Katsuoji to buy the famous Daruma dolls to see if they get the winner’s luck. If the wish is fulfilled, the daruma dolls are supposed to be left on the grounds. We bought six Daruma dolls to represent our five family members and our dog Obi.

It was a perfect way to start the new year. I love exercising in the wilderness followed by a cultural experience. We don’t know what 2024 will bring us but we will do our best and stick together as a family. Happy New Year and best wishes for health, happiness, success, and fulfillment in the upcoming year.

Family Journal: December 31, 2023 – Happy New Year!

We spent New Year’s Eve in downtown Osaka to celebrate the end of 2023. Our eldest son Owen went with his friends so it was Oliver, Ocean, Nadia, and me who left our house around 6:00 PM. We ate at One Karubi, a Korean Barbeque Beef restaurant. They only offer a 2-hour, all-you-can-eat menu option. We were pretty much done after the first hour but continued to order drinks and some desserts in the second hour. We used to go to the restaurant for special occasions when we lived here and it was nice to go back.

After dinner, we drove 30 minutes to one of the most popular tourist areas of Osaka, Dotonbori. “Bori” means canal and “Doton” refers to Nariyasu Doton, an entrepreneur who built the canal way back in 1612. Doton built it to increase trade in Osaka, but in 1621, the Tokugawa Shogunate designated it an entertainment district. 403 years later, it is still an entertainment district with lots of bars, restaurants, karaoke, pachinko, etc. Sadly, there is only one theatre left, as originally it was full of kabuki and bunraku theatres. I wonder if a world-class theatre district like Broadway or London’s West End could be built here and survive? Japanese really don’t celebrate New Year’s Eve by going out to places like Times Square. It was mostly tourists. We were surprised by the large numbers of men from the Philippines who were congregating along the canal, drinking and smoking. They must be guest workers here, as they didn’t look like typical tourists. We noticed piles of rubbish everywhere which is rare in Japan. Public garbage bins are not common here and with so many tourists, I can see why this happened.

Kuidaore (食い倒れ) is a Japanese word that means to “ruin oneself financially by extravagant spending on food” or in Western terms, “eat until you drop”. Osaka is the food capital of Japan and prides itself on having the most and best restaurants in the country. Of course, we needed to stop to try some takoyaki or fried balls of a doughy batter with octopus inside. It was nice to watch the preparations of the takoyaki and okonomiyaki (pancakes) in front of the hot grills in the cold weather and slight rain.

Ocean, Oliver, and Nadia in Shinsekai

We left Dotonbori and headed over to ShinSekai district, about 4 kilometers away from Dotonbori. “Shin” means new and “Sekai” means world. The area was first developed in 1912 and being typical of Japanese culture, it was modeled after Coney Island (north side) and Paris (south side). The Japanese often replicate outside cultures and with their attention to detail and hard work, often improve them! 🙂 The amusement park is long gone but the Eifel Tower, Tsūtenkaku (tower reaching heaven) is still there. The tower burned down in 1943 and the steel was used in Japan’s war efforts. Residents lobbied the government to rebuild the tower. The tower reopened in 1956 and featured a Billiken. Art teacher Florence Pretz of Kansas City, Missouri created the Billiken charm doll in the early 1900s. The figure came to her in a dream and she found the name in an 1896 poem. She sold the patent to the Billiken Company of Chicago. To purchase one, or even better, to receive a Billiken doll brings you good luck. The Billiken is also known as the “God of Things as They Ought to Be”. It was a big fad in the early 20th century but faded into obscurity over the past 100 years. Today it is still a symbol of American culture in the shinsekai district and we noticed many billikens around the neighborhood. I am glad they kept the idea alive. We will probably head back to the district once more before we leave to enjoy the cozy kushi-kastsu (deep fried meat on skewers) restaurants and I’ll blog more about one of my favorite districts of the city.

We also paid our respects to the kami inari a Buddhist/Shinto god associated with “with foxes, rice, household wellbeing, business prosperity, and general prosperity”. We all send positive vibes in honor of Oliver so he can pass his IB Diploma in May. You can find the shrines all over Japan, in both cities and the countryside. You wash your hands to leave the secular world and enter the sacred world. You go through a ritual of ringing the bell and clapping to “wake-up” the kami (ancestral spirits) and bow to show respect. We are all hoping it works!

We finished the evening by celebrating the countdown at our house together. My first New Year’s kiss was of course with my beautiful wife Nadia. It was so nice to spend the evening together with Oliver and Ocean. They will soon become adults and leave us, and it felt like a nice way to be together as a family to welcome 2024.

The Sacred Deer of Nara Park

“I’ve had enough…”

As you can see by this bloated deer, the tourists are back! I was reading that during COVID, the deer were starving without the daily influx of tourists feeding the deer rice cookies. By the time we arrived in the afternoon, the deer looked like they were full and tired of having tourists stick cookies in their faces. We had to walk away from the central park area up to Wakakusayama Hill to find deer that were eager to crunch the cookies.

Hungry Deer

This is the fourth time that I’ve visited Nara Park and the famous Sika or Northern Spotted or Japanese Deer (Cervus nippon). My daughter Ocean wanted to post photographs of feeding the deer on her Instagram so we drove from Osaka to Nara (55 minutes). Besides the deer, there are some beautiful Buddhist Temples including one of the world’s largest wooden temples housing a huge statue of Buddha. The manicured grounds are full of trees, ponds, and open grass areas.

Oliver feeds the deer

The deer are considered to be sacred messengers of the gods and have been protected for over a thousand years. They have been isolated for so long from other deer herds in Japan that they are genetically different and they behave differently. The Nara Deer are famous for bowing while approaching tourists for rice. This is not a behavior Sika Deer exhibits in nature and they think it may have developed as a form of communication between the deer and the humans.

Red Bean Paste and Strawberry Mochi

In the evening, Nadia and I rode our bicycles to meet with my friend Kurt at the Minoh Brewery. They make in my opinion, the world’s finest craft beers. I tried the Yuzu White one of their winter beers. I love seasonal things and like all of their beers, absolutely delicious. I don’t drink a lot of beer or alcohol in general for health reasons especially now I am in my 50s, but I do love an occasional good craft beer. I also keep being impressed with Google Translate. It is so much faster and more accurate than 5 years ago and makes travel in Japan easier. I also sense the Japanese are opening to the English-speaking world. With such a weak yen, the island is receiving many more tourists who are coming specifically for shopping.

Family Journal: December 28, 2023

Japan is a country of jingles or tunes. One of my favorites is the Family Mart entry door chime. Every time the sliding doors of a Family Mart open, a Panasonic door chime plays the melody above. This blog post about Family Mart in China, explains the origin of this melody.  I wonder what the employees of Family Mart think when they have to listen to the song all day long? Do they get tired of the tune? It brings back memories of our time living in Japan. Our kids love Family Mart, over 7 11 and Lawson’s in the Japanese Convenience Store market. There are many 7-second jingles in the train stations, with departure and arrival tunes and stores also play their own theme songs.

I also made a short video above of Nadia and I cycling back from the grocery store. There are many narrow alleys and roads in Japan, often dating back centuries to the Edo Period. This particular road in our former neighborhood is called Kyusaigoku Kaido. Kaido is the name of any historical trail/path/road. This particular road meanders from northern Osaka to Kyoto. I’ve taken it all the way to the Suntory Whiskey Distillery in Kyoto. I love the old wooden homes, lanterns, and Japanese-style gardens along the route. We rode it often when we lived here because it has less car traffic than the busier roads.

Finally, we are catching up with old friends. It is so nice to see them again and Nadia and I have fond memories of our time working at the Senri and Osaka International Schools of Kwansei Gakuin and living in Minoh. Fumie, Ritsu, and Izumi (sick yesterday) took good care of our family, helping us navigate Japan and the school as we adjusted to the distinct culture of the school and country. Kurt and Cari were close family friends of ours and Kurt was a trusted colleague on the leadership team. He always gave good advice and cared about the students. My heart was filled with happiness that all of them are healthy and still enjoying life. Until we meet again!

Family Journal: December 27, 2023

Kenta and Oliver

I had a really nice relaxing day, enjoying both urban and suburban Japan. Oliver and I worked on his university applications with his friend Kenta. They are applying to US universities and I gave them advice on their essays and help in filling out the forms. Afterwards, we went to a restaurant serving tonkatsu (Japanese deep-fried pork cutlet). I of course ordered the winter menu set that came with deep fried Hiroshima oysters. The meal is accompanied with miso soup, cabbage, rice, and a special tonkatsu sauce. Absolutely delicious! Although it is deep fried, it is not oily but crispy and it just goes so well with cabbage and rice. The breading is “panko” a white-bread, non-crust bread crumb. The cabbage topped with sesame dressing gives the meal some more crunch.

Tonkatsu Meal

After a short nap, I went for a long walk in the hills of Saito, above our rental home. I love that we lived in a nice suburb close to nature. It was sunny and cool and perfect walking weather.

Oliver and I then went downtown Osaka to pick up Nadia and Ocean. We stopped at the Hankyu Department Store and watched people and drank a nice craft wheat beer. We then drove back home. Owen went skiing with friends to Hakuba and will be gone for a few days.

Oliver on a rooftop parking lot

Nadia and Ocean were tired so we drove back north to our rental house. I wanted to stay downtown a bit more, but we will go again. Below is a short video of us crossing the street in Umeda.

Family Journal: December 24, 2023 “Parks and Seasonal Eating”

Ocean, Nadia, Oliver and Owen in front of the slide in Senri Chuo Park

We continue with our nostalgia tour with a walk around Senri Chuo Park. Japan has some beautiful green parks, especially in the suburbs. We spent a lot of time in Senri Chuo Park when we lived here from 2014-2019. I loved watching birds in the pond and running/cycling the trails in and around the park. The kids loved the giant slide and playgrounds. We also used to take the students from OIS for an annual picnic in the last week of school here. Many good memories.

Senri Chuo Park

We forgot how beautiful the northern Osaka suburbs are. There are breathtaking views of the surrounding Minoh Hills and the manicured parks and cycling trails. We also visited one of the neighborhood parks, Matsuide. We remember our first day in our house in August of 2014 with all of us sweating and going over to the park. Lots of good times in the park after getting over the culture shock and jet lag…

Yesterday Nadia and I went for a 20-kilometer bike ride. I took her on some of my old cycle routes around Expo Park and back to Onohara-Nishi. The rental house comes with two electric bikes that are quite popular in Japan. Japan is ideal for cycling because of its courteous and safe drivers, excellent roads with many bike lanes, good weather for most of the year, and a lot of people do it so drivers and pedestrians are used to cyclists. I am against electric bikes because it is “cheating” but it is nice on the hills and when you are doing errands and are tired after a day’s work.

One of my favorite aspects of Japan is the food. Japanese eat seasonally and each season comes with a different set of seafood. I ordered the Winter 5 set at our neighborhood sushi restaurant, which featured the famous Tiger Blowfish and scallops. Eating sushi in Japan spoiled me and all other sushi I eat in other countries pales in comparison.

Family Journal: December 22, 2023 “Round One”

We had an awesome family night at Round One Entertainment Center. Round One is a chain of 108 amusement stores in Japan that was founded here in the Osaka prefecture. They have karaoke, billiards, darts, arcade games, bowling, batting cages, and table tennis. We bought the multi-pass and rolled two games of bowling, an epic table tennis match between Oliver and Owen, and finished off the night with a couple of hours of karaoke. Lots of shared fun with the family, something we haven’t done in a long time.

Table tennis really helped our family get through the COVID-19 lockdowns in the spring of 2020. We played everyday and we all became pretty good at it! We tried a couple of the arcade games, but lost right away. The bowling was fun, I especially liked the front and back cameras that show your form. If people were serious about improving their bowling, this would be a great way to analyze your form. This is a long way from when I started bowling at Pladium Lanes in Iron River, Michigan in the early 1970s. You needed to keep your own score on a bowling score sheet. They had a really beautiful bar and I remember my dad bringing home their greasy hamburgers with pickles from the Saturday Night Mixed Couples League my mom and dad were part of. We had a babysitter and always looked forward to eating them.

Oliver and Ocean Sing Karaoke

The karaoke was awesome. Nadia and Ocean have good voices and Owen, Oliver, and I have a lot of enthusiasm and stage presence. The kids chose a lot of Kanye West songs and Nadia and I chose 80s songs. With the jet lag, we didn’t stop singing until 2:00 AM. The Round One was in downtown Osaka in the East Yodo River section. I am seeking permission from the kids to post some of the karaoke videos.

Latest Reading – “Eager: The Surprising, Secret Life of Beavers and Why They Matter”

I have a special interest in the North American Beaver (Castor canadensis) because the Upper Peninsula of Michigan was first explored by French fur trappers in the 1600s. The fur trappers opened up the UP to European immigrant settlement. Early immigrants devastated North America’s natural ecosystems and the fur trappers greatly changed the wilderness by trapping and killing the estimated 150 million beavers present when the first Europeans arrived in North America in the 17th century. By the turn of the 20th century, around 100,000 beavers were left. Today there are an estimated 15 million beavers, still only 10% of the original population.

My main takeaway from the book is the profound positive impact the North American Beaver has on wilderness. By damming rivers, beavers create micro ecosystems by slowing down flowing rivers to form wetlands. Beaver-created wetlands greatly benefit plants, insects, fish, amphibians, bird life, mammals, especially predators, groundwater levels, etc. By wiping out the beaver, early fur traders turned life-enriching bogs into fast-flowing rivers (east) or dried river bottoms and deserts (west). I didn’t know that beavers were so widespread in the USA, from California to Georgia. The same thing happened to the closely related Eurasian Beaver (Castor fiber) which was down to 1,200 individuals at the start of the 20th century. I also didn’t know that beavers are in the rodent family and are the second largest rodent after our beloved Capybara (Hydrochoerus hydrochaeris). I’ve spent a lot of time in Bolivia observing capybaras.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a beaver in the wild. I see plenty of muskrats and as a kid, used to go out with a neighborhood friend to help him check his trap lines. This summer if I am in the UP, I am definitely going to be searching for beaver dams, especially around Ishpeming, to see if I can find the oldest “infrastructure” in Michigan. Goldfarb mentions an 1868 beaver map by explorer Lewis Henry Morgan and the recent work of South Dakota State University researcher Carol Johnston who says you can still discern most of the dams today.

The author spent most of his time in the American West in the book, but he covers a lot of historical and contemporary beaver projects. Goldfarb describes reintroduction programs and techniques to allow humans to live next to beavers. Most people consider beavers to be pests because they eat lots of trees, cause flooding, and stop the flow of rivers. As a kayaker, carrying my kayak around beaver dams would be a hassle. Beavers are amazing workers and I see why we say, “busy as a beaver”.

Other takeaways from the book are as follows:

  • A big issue in the Western United States is livestock (mostly cattle) grazing in riparian areas. Beavers protect rivers, streams, and creeks by creating mini-dams that hold water in the dry season and create wetland areas in the arid West.
  • Goldfarb devotes a chapter to Elko County, Nevada, and the Uintas Mountains of Utah. I am very familiar with these areas.
  • Streams should not be “strings” or “ribbons” but “meal of spaghetti” instead. Taking out a keystone species like the beaver severely altered the landscape.
  • Researchers in 2005 estimated between 15 million and 250 million beaver ponds puddled in North America before European arrival. Beavers once submerged 234,000 square miles of North America, an area larger than Nevada and Arizona combined.
  • The term “mad as a hatter” came from manufacturers of beaver fur hats in Danbury, Connecticut. They used mercury nitrate that matted fur into malleable felt.
  • perspicacious – astute, intelligent
  • avuncular – like an uncle
  • joie de vivre – joy of living
  • The Great Basin is America’s coldest and most northernmost desert.
  • Society must align the benefits of beavers (fish and wildlife habitat, carbon storage, cleaner water) with private landowners who view them as eating Cottonwood trees, plugging irrigation ditches and flooding fields.
  • USA had over 90,000 dams, 15,000 of which are “high hazard”. By killing beavers, Americans depleted the Western landscape’s ability to store water, so instead we built thousands of concrete dams.
  • 16 million Greater Sage Grouse once lived in the high desert sage, today is it 400,000. Sage Grouse chicks need summer streams to live and this is a win-win for both species.
  • There is a chapter devoted to Yellowstone National Park. There is a popular theory that the wolves brought back Yellowstone because they prevented wild ruminants (elk, deer, bison) from riverside grazing. It is a bit more complicated than that with the beaver also playing a role.
  • The UK is properly described as a land barren of wilderness, with every tree and large animal wiped out centuries ago.

“The conservation of the common,” the author JB MacKinnon has written, “represents a deeper ambition than the 20th century’s lopsided division of the world into islands of wild… It calls on us to integrate conservation into every aspect of human life.” Beavers – catholic in their habitat requirements, ark-like in their ability to support other forms of life- represent a spectacular opportunity to practice MacKinnon’s ideal.

Eager: The Surprising Secret Life of Beavers and Why They Matter

I copied and pasted Michigan Department of Natural Resources website under nuisance animals. Beavers: Michigan’s largest rodent, the beaver, is known for great feats of engineering, building dams and lodges out of logs, sticks, and mud. However, beavers can cause problems for landowners when their gnawing habits ruin landscape trees and when their dams create flooding.

Damage prevention and control tips:

  • Eliminate food sources like desirable trees and woody vegetation where possible. Beavers especially enjoy cottonwood, willow, and aspen.For landscape trees, place metal flashing, hardware cloth or tree guards around the trees at least 3 feet high to prevent gnawing on trees.Fence around small critical areas like drains, culverts or other small areas to prevent dam building.With a permit from the local DNR wildlife biologist, continually destroy dams and materials used to build dams. If the dam has grown large enough to require the use of tools, contact the Department of Environment, Great Lakes, and Energy Environmental Assistance Center, 1-800-662-9278, or the EGLE district office for your area to obtain a dam removal permit.
Removing a beaver from private property
  • Install a Clemson beaver pond leveler or beaver baffler in or near coverts and dam openings. These devices allow water to move through them while preventing dam construction.If you live in an area where trapping is allowed, beavers may be trapped in season with a valid base and fur harvester license.Contact the Michigan Trappers and Predator Callers to see if they have anyone interested in trapping the beaverIf these methods do not alleviate the beaver issues you’re experiencing, the final step is to contact a nuisance animal control company or the local wildlife biologist, depending on where you’re located.
    • If you’re located on private land in Zone 3 (southern MI) and it is between April 1st – April 29, contact a nuisance control company for their assistance. See the Hunting Digest for the zoning map.
If you are located on private land in Zone 3 and it is outside of that timeframe, or if you’re located in any other counties, contact the local DNR Customer Service Center, year-round, to obtain a Damage and Nuisance Animal permit

Family Journal: December 21, 2023

The View from Our House

We are getting over jet lag (4-hour time difference) and travel fatigue and settling into our holiday in Japan. We are renting a home of a former colleague in the suburb of Ibabraki, the suburb next to our former home suburb of Minoh. We are on the outskirts of the Osaka metropolitan area and are surrounded by the hills and trees of the Minoh Hills National Park.

3-3-12

On our first full day in Japan, we visited our old house, which is now vacant and in dire need of TLC. We also visited former school, the Senri and Osaka International Schools of Kwansei Gakuin. I was impressed with the improvements to the campus that Kwansei Gakuin University has been doing, the place looks great. The kids are full of nostalgia and we did have a nice life in our beautiful neighborhood of Onohara Nishi. I loved going to our old Starbucks and Q’s Mall. Q’s Mall is an outdoor mall that is now at the end of the Senri Chuo Line. They are opening a subway station which started right before we left 4 and 1/2 years ago.

The Japanese language poster of Wonka

We watched Wonka, the musical by director Paul King. I loved it because the songs were great, it was old-fashioned in that it had the look and feel of the original 1971 movie that I loved as a kid and lots of great actors, costumes, and sets. I see the appeal of star Timothee Chalamet who starred in a young Willy Wonka. The story was a prequel to the 1971 original. I give it a “thumbs up”!

View from rooftop parking garage of Q’s Mall

Winter skies in Japan are so blue and clear! The summer is hot, humid and hazy but winter is dry and cold usually.