I completed a lifelong dream of going on a safari in Africa. My daughter Ocean and I visited the Mkomazi National Park located on the border of Tanzania and Kenya. It is adjacent to the Tsavo West National Park on the Kenyan side. Mkomazi is little visited compared to the more famous Tanzanian parks in the Serengeti region. However, I was swept away by the majesty of the African savannah and Acacia-dry woodlands all the same. The park features breeding programs for Black Rhinos and the African Wild Dog. It was patched together through combining reserves and somewhat controversially, evicting pastoralists and local villagers without giving adequate compensation. During the long drive from Fish Eagle Point to the park, we saw many poor villages all the way up to almost the border of the park. We also saw the occasional Maasai herders, walking along the side of the road. I have mixed emotions as a rich foreigner able to visit the rhinos and celebrate the success of conserving a big piece of land.
I was pleasantly surprised by the size of the park. It is slightly larger than my home of Iron County in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula (over 3,000 square kilometers). We didn’t start seeing large concentrations of animals until the interior of the park. It is the end of the dry season and many of the animals concentrate near watering holes. The Black Rhinos were used to tourists which was good that we got to see them, but bad in that it was a bit more of a zoo than a park.
Our campsite was beautiful. The views of the mountains in the background, the immense Boab trees, and the clear night skies were dreamy. We were definitely not “glamping” as it was a school trip. We all had basic tents with sleeping bags and mats. We had a delicious dinner on picnic tables. We paid extra to visit the rhinos and wild dogs’ breeding areas. I was disappointed that you just can’t go on an unaccompanied hike through the park. Part of it is for safety and part of it is not to disturb the wildlife.
I see the economics of tourism and national parks in Tanzania. I am glad my tourist dollars go to the local employees and government to give them a good life and conserve the incredible wilderness of Africa. The trip really opened my eyes to the beauty of Africa. It is similar to South America in many ways. It is a bit poorer with less infrastructure, but the nature of the tropics is on par with the Amazon, Pantonal, Andes, etc. I feel so fortunate to experience a safari. I remember Mutual of Omaha’s Wild Kingdom with Marlin Perkins as a kid (1963-1988). Growing up in a little town in northern Michigan, I always wanted to visit the exotic locales and see the wilderness that they featured on the show. I hope to go back and experience more of African wilderness.
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