We had a free morning on Friday so a couple of us visited the ancient Agora (public space) of Smyrna, an archaeological site in the center of Izmir. The Greeks first built the site in the fourth century BC and legend has it that Alexander the Great founded the site after a dream. The city was destroyed by an earthquake in 178 AD. The Roman Emperor Marcus Aurelius ordered it to be rebuilt and later the Ottomans occupied the site. The Agora site probably about 1 kilometer inland from the sea, but the ancient shoreline was much closer. The site was during the Romans as outdoor shopping mall and commercial center with structures to provide shade and stalls for vendors. It was excavated starting in 1933 with a long pause for World War 2. It is still being worked on and is currently under consideration to be named a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
It is awesome to think that I was walking through the streets and pathways of a site thousands of years old. To think that the ancient Greeks and Romans built the site, carved the inscriptions in the walls, erected the columns, etc. and an American from Michigan thousands of years later is admiring their work. Truly an awe-inspiring experience.Humans have not changed in many ways. The site preserves evidence of water trenches for a spring, graffiti on the walls of market stalls, tombstones, etc. Loved being in the same place as Alexander the Great, Roman soldiers, Ottoman officials, etc.
I was impressed with Izmir. It felt like a more established, older city than Tashkent (more densely packed with buildings) and definitely more secular and forward-thinking. I didn’t like the traffic, which was not as bad as other places I’ve visited, but still would be a hassle. The kordon in Konak was delightful and refreshing and I enjoyed the sea breeze walks in the evenings. Turkiye is much richer and more developed than Uzbekistan. I see why Turkish companies are doing well in Uzbekistan. I would definitely like to come back and explore more of the Aegean and Mediterranean coasts of Turkey. The Turks are friendly and welcoming and my female companions on the trip felt very safe, evening walking alone in the evenings. It is nice to have a city that prides itself on being relaxed and enjoying life.
I finish this blog post with a photo of sunset over the Aegean Sea. Accreditation visits are an intense experience and working closely with fellow educators creates strong bonds. I really enjoyed my week and made some new friends, both on the team and at the school. Farewell Beautiful Izmir and the Aegean! I hope a laid-back, secular Türkiye wins out against the more conservative and religious elements of Türkiye.
Bill's Blog 
What a fascinating journey through history! Your description of the ancient Agora of Smyrna really brings the site to life. It’s incredible to think about the layers of civilization that have occupied that space, from the Greeks to the Ottomans. Your reflections on the continuity of human experience, like the graffiti and market stalls, resonate deeply.
Izmir sounds like a vibrant city with a rich tapestry of culture and history. I appreciate your insights on the contrasts between Izmir and Tashkent, especially regarding the atmosphere and safety. Your experience walking along the kordon must have been magical, especially at sunset!
It’s also heartening to hear about the warmth and hospitality of the Turkish people. I hope you get the chance to explore more of Turkey’s stunning coastlines in the future. Thanks for sharing your adventures!