Oliver contemplates the amphitheatre of Bryce Canyon national park
The sandstone Colorado plateau in the southwest has a high density of national parks. We visited our third park on the last day of our stay in Saint George, the Bryce Canyon national park. It is a great hike for artists because the erosion of the sandstone has exposed a varied palette of colors. It is a more subtle beauty and lacked the majesty and scale of the Grand Canyon and Zion. We did a couple of figure 8 loops within the amphitheatre section of the park. It is compact and accessible so we ran into lots of tourists in the second portion of the walk. We completed the Peek-a-Boo loop and did portions of the Navajo loop, Queen’s Bridge trail and finished by walking along the rim.
One of my big take-aways from the trip that there are so many beautiful wilderness places outside of the national parks. There are numerous state parks, conservation areas and local trails that although they are not quite the splendor of the national parks, they lack the high numbers of visitors. I also would ban horses and mules from the parks. They urinate and defecate on the trails, causing foul odors for hikers. We didn’t have time to visit the three other parks in the area, Capitol Reef, Canyonlands and Arches.
There is a lot I loved about the Colorado Plateau region in Nevada, Utah and Arizona. Living in a metropolitan area of 20 million people in Japan, the wide open spaces and lack of people were so refreshing! The awesome geology – driving between towns in the region you see incredible cliffs, ridges, canyons and peaks that back in the eastern half of the US would be celebrated parks, here they are just a mundane part of the scenery, most not even reaching state park status as they don’t stack up against the even more awesome (I can use the word here in its original meaning!) national parks. The church of Latter Day Saints (LDS) culture in many ways is good in that it makes for tidy infrastructure, big families, lower crime rate and a wholesome, safe atmosphere. It truly is “big sky” country and the lack of trees gives you views of clouds and sunsets and sunrises that are just so pleasant.
It was over 20 years since I have been back to the region, I started my teaching career in Nevada and it brought back memories of that time. I noticed a change in the demographics and more Latinos and others from outside the region are providing a bit of diversity, to what used to be a very homogeneous culture, although it is still almost 90% white. Utah and to a lesser extent Nevada and Arizona are growing rapidly and I can see why. The outdoor activities are numerous and I would love the explore the thousands of trails on foot and bike. The weather is also good, a dry climate with hot summers and cool winters.
Ocean in Hurricane, Utah
The downside of the region is the isolation. One definitely needs a car to get around and I wonder about the intellectual and cultural outlets. Not being a member of the LDS church would also have its downsides and I wonder if my family would be accepted. The homes and buildings have a new, temporary feel to them and you don’t see many historic and distinct architecture.
We did do a bit of cultural and sightseeing activities besides the national parks. We saw the first stage of the Tour of Utah professional cycling race in nearby Cedar City, Utah. The racers did three laps around the city park and it was thrilling to see them come by at such fast speeds. The trailing support cars really brought home how fast the bicycles were travelling as I thought to myself the cars were going way too fast for residential streets. It is only a few moments of actually watching the riders, but the sponsors and city officials had a nice fan participation center in the park. I love cycling and want to continue developing my skills as it is a good way to save my knees. I want to be able to run in the next two decades and the years of long distance running (since middle school) means I must reduce the amount of kilometers I run. Cycling is a great way to do this.
LDS Temple – Saint George, Utah
We also visited the Saint George Temple and the visitor center in the old part of Saint George. Brigham Young himself selected the site of the church, and unfortunately for the workers, it was over an underground spring, so they had to haul millions of pounds of rocks and pound them into a base with huge timbers brought from Arizona before building the impressive temple. When workers suggested they find another spot, Young said that is where God told him to place it, so with the typical Mormon work ethic, they got it done. I admire the resilience and cooperation it must have taken to colonize the region. Near the temple was the Dixie State College campus, reminding us that Saint George was originally a Mormon settlement to produce cotton. The Mormons were persecuted by the US government and had to flee to Utah, and there is still a bit of anti-government/Libertarian feel to the place. I can see why they consistently vote Republican in elections.
I would definitely consider retiring/settling down in the area, although we would be away from our family and friends. I hope to see more of the great American west and the Rocky Mountain / Great Basin region in the future. The wilderness is so accessible and there is so much of it!
It may have been the most scenic hike I will ever do! Yesterday we climbed 2,100 feet in elevation and 10 miles in distance to make it to Observation Point, a beautiful overlook in the Zion National Park. You can see the Virgin River in the background, which carved the canyon out of the sandstone of the Colorado Plateau over millions of years. It was also our starting point for this glorious morning walk in stunning Zion.
Nadia and I were proud parents of our children. They showed the grit of experienced hikers, easily making it to the top and back. On the way they needed to manage the many climbing switchbacks, a narrow trail with a cliff wall on one side and a precipice on the other. I was really tired upon our return and needed to take a nap, but the kids stayed awake in the house and later played tennis and swam in the pool.
Besides the amazing views at every turn, we saw lots of wildlife. A mule deer crossed our path near the start of the hike. An unidentified little gray bird mother was feeding her young in a nest near the end our goal of Observation Point. We also saw chipmunks, squirrels, a bluebird, lizards, etc. The hike was also varied in the types of rocks, trees, and canyon shapes. The Virgin River was very muddy yesterday after the flash floods the night before. Erosion in action!
The kids became official Junior Rangers when a park ranger saw them complete the strenuous hike and gave them badges. It is our last day
We learned a lot of geology yesterday during our hike from the north rim of the Grand Canyon. The Colorado River and precipitation carved through the dry, sandstone plateau during millions of years to create a breathtaking canyon. The earth’s strata are on magnificent display. Anyone with an interest in geology needs to visit the park. Simply awesome! It is crazy to think how a river winding through a dry, elevated plateau made something so grand.
The north rim much less visited than the iconic south rim. It is much harder to get to the north rim from Las Vegas, Flagstaff and Phoenix. The high elevation of the north rim (8,297 feet – 2,528 meters) means more rainfall. I was surprised at the heavy forested trails down the canyon. We were planning a light hiking day and so had a leisurely breakfast at the lodge. The view was absolutely spectacular and the food wasn’t bad as well. It didn’t feel crowded at all and had a Yellowstone feel with rangers giving talks, Smokey the Bear signs, cabins, etc.
Nadia at the north rim lodge.
We wanted to get down into the canyon a bit and so took the Kaibab trail 2.7 miles down to a man-made tunnel. The trail should have been called “mule poop” trail and we learned that mule urine smells much worse than mule feces. The scents from the ponderosa pines and views of the canyon made up for the occasional foul smelling excrement. It got much warmer as we made our way down the canyon. We were walking through time as the many layers of rock are visible. We only made it down to the 6th layer, the Redwall Limestone, a mere 340 million years old. The bottom layer is approximately 1,700 million years old. The way down is much easier than the way up so we didn’t go down as far as I wanted.
A Geologist’s Paradise!
Hiking can be tiresome and boring, but I find the long hours on the trail gives our family time to talk and reflect on our lives. We were sharing stories with the kids about when they were babies. They are fascinated in their own stories, and talking about them getting colic, changing diapers, drinking milk, etc. brings them much delight. It cements the bonds of family. I can’t wait for our return hike to Zion tomorrow.
The work of the Virgin River on the Navajo Sandstone in the Zion National Park is breathtaking! We were awestruck by the geology and beauty of the park. I can see why the US government wanted to preserve the canyon from development and make it accessible to all.
We spent the day yesterday in the park, arriving before sunrise and leaving exhausted at 4:00 PM. Our first hike was through The Narrows, an aptly named gorge at the end of the road leading through the canyon in the southern part of the 500 kilometer square park (larger than Guam). On a planet dominated by the impact of humans, walking through the river confined by the massive rock walls of the gorge, made me feel tiny and insignificant. The enormity of geological time it took for the river to carve through that much solid rock! Humankind has been here for such a short time and those rocks will probably be here long after humanity is gone. I know this is all a cliche, but when one is looking up a 200 meters+ sheer rock wall while standing in a gently flowing creek, it is the only thing that comes to mind.
The air was cool because the sun does not reach the bottom of the gorge very often. The cold water and green lushness were in stark contrast to the rest of southern Utah. Temperatures have been over 100 F all week with a relentless desert sun forcing us indoors in the afternoon. It was good to arrive on the first shuttle bus to trail so we had the river to ourselves in the morning. We walked the mile trail to where you can enter the water. The river depth ranged from ankles to mid-thigh and was easily fjorded. We walked 3 miles downriver to the Orderville side canyon, ate brunch and headed back out. On the way back, we ran into hordes of walkers. I highly recommend an early arrival!
In the afternoon we hiked the trail leading to observation point. We wanted to see some the canyon from a different perspective after being in the bottom of it for the morning. As you can see in the video, the views did not disappoint. We were a bit concerned for the kids, as the trail dropped off precipitously as we ascended quickly. The hot sun and steep incline caused the kids to whine a bit, but we made it to our goal of a shaded canyon area on the rim. This was my favorite part of the day. The contrast of the red/white rocks and green vegetation and blue skies was heavenly. The majestic canyon walls as a backdrop, made walking up the trail easier. It was one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to! After a rest day today, we will head back tomorrow to complete the hike to the top!
In reading about the park before the trip, we were worried about the crowds and the dangers of the park. Because we arrived at sunrise, there was absolutely no traffic and elevation rise of the strenuous trails takes the vast majority of visitors away. We met a few hikers, but mostly had the place to ourselves. Our children, ranging in age from 8-13 did fine on both hikes. They are experienced hikers and can handle a variety of terrains. I hope I’ve instilled in them a love of wilderness and being active outdoors.
During our long walks through the corridors, casinos, shopping areas of the Venetian Resort we noticed a curious maneuver which we dubbed, the “Venetian Turn-around”. This was the 180 degree turn guests made while lost in the vast, 7000-room resort. It is second-largest hotel in the world. For example, to get from our room to the nearest casino floor, we took 2 elevators and probably walked 500 meters. We had a brief stay so we never did thoroughly understand the layout of the resort.
It was so hot, Nadia easily entered the pool!
This was the second Venetian I visited, the other in Macau, and I came to the conclusion that they are on too large of a scale to make a stay enjoyable. Going from your room to the pool, restaurant, shopping, etc. is a hassle and the whole experience impersonal. The pools were nice but a bit crowded. I wanted to show the children the profligate nature of a city in the desert, but I would not come back for another visit. It had been 24 years since I was last in the city and it has grown tremendously in that time. I don’t know how so much people and stuff can be supported by the desert environment. It brought back memories of our time in the Arabian Gulf . I could see the whole thing being a ghost town in a couple hundred of years.
A selfie in front of another Trump property…
We ate extremely well! I had one of the best breakfasts in my life at the Peppermill Restaurant, a Vegas institution. The two restaurants we ate at in the fake St. Mark’s Square and fake Venice were of gourmet quality.
I don’t understand the appeal of a Las Vegas vacation. Gambling, sitting by the pool, shopping and watching tacky night shows are not my idea of relaxation and enjoyment. I am very happy to be in our condo in the small town of St. George, Utah this week for some R&R. Getting out to nature always refreshes my soul…
Ocean as “Rocky” overlooking the Benjamin Franklin parkway.
We could certainly feel the excitement in the city caused by Democratic National Convention. The ubiquitous police, Bernie Sanders protesters, delegates dressed in red, white and blue and extremely hot temperatures created a frenzied atmosphere. We spent the morning in our hotel near the airport because the kids wanted to swim in the pool. With my Bernie Sanders t-shirt, I was mistaken for a Connecticut delegate by the Georgia delegates, both delegations were staying in the hotel. An odd pairing with Georgia being heavily Clinton and African-American and Connecticut being a majority Sanders and white. I entered many conversations with delegates and others because of my shirt. Everyone we met in the hotel and city were super friendly, reminding me how nice Americans are and how nice it is to speak the language fluently. In Japan I am handicapped with my limited Japanese. We didn’t see the reputation of the Philly sports fans as being rude. Most locals took pride in the city and enjoyed living there.
I loved Sanders’s convention speech last night. He rose above the egos and name calling of the campaign to bring out the important issues of rising poverty, income inequality and the plight of the middle class. I hate to see good, hard-working people struggle in our society. Sanders is the only candidate that is not a multi-millionaire/billionaire who I believe really cares about people like me. After seeing the stark contrast between rich and poor in the Lehigh Valley, New York City and Philadelphia this month, I feel the government needs to get them closer to the well-off for a healthy America for everyone. We saw the rich/poor divide manifest itself in the city yesterday. The only people out in the intense afternoon heat yesterday were European tourists, the homeless and us!
Feelin’ the heat with City Hall in the background
“Philadelphia is a nicer New York City” was a quote by Owen as we explored more parts of the city in the afternoon. Flanked by the Delaware and Schuylkill rivers, the spacious Benjamin Franklin Parkway green area, combined with the classic architecture of the museums and colonial buildings, makes for an impressive and relaxing big city. We managed to complete the “Rocky” training run up the steps of the art museum. The heat limited more exploring. To and from the central business district, we took the train, which was in sharp contrast to Japan. Many trains were late, tickets were sold by hand and it was generally disorganized. They have a long way to go to make public transport a viable alternative to private transport in the USA in my opinion. I was also disappointed in my morning run around the hotel. Despite the presence of a bike lane on the four-lane road outside the hotel, the intersections are not designed for pedestrians or bikers for that matter. With all of the space in America, it would be so easy to make the city walker/biker- friendly.
Home of the DNC-2016 – view from the freeway
A summer thunderstorm delayed our flights to Las Vegas, but we made it out safe and sound. It was a strange morning drive on the strip this morning in the rising light of the desert. More posts to come on Nevada/Utah.
I finished my second class this summer in Lehigh yesterday and we are off to take a family holiday in the great American west. We are leaving from Philadelphia so decided to spend a two days here to experience the 2016 Democratic National Convention. Although we are not delegates and cannot get into the convention center itself, there are lots of events around the city celebrating democracy and the convention.
The delegations from Georgia and Connecticut are staying in our hotel near the airport. We were talking yesterday with several of them, as well as delegates from Texas, and it is fascinating to hear their views and see the convention in progress. The delegations of Connecticut and Georgia are very different. Hillary Clinton won Georgia 73-29 and there are lots of African American delegates (Georgia is 60% white). Clinton edged out Sanders 28-27 in Connecticut in a state that is 98.7% white. I wonder how the delegations will get along. They are generally political nerds from what I see and I am surprised that many of them are younger than I thought they would be. I have lots of questions and will try to talk to more of them today. The extra security is definitely noticeable, there is a policeman stationed in the lobby of the hotel. There are also walking and car patrols all over the city center.
Delegate registration at the Doubletree hotel in Philadelphia
We asked two of the delegates from Connecticut what they thought of the email leak. Being Clinton delegates, they downplayed it, saying that Deborah Wasserman, the current party and convention chair was planning to step down after this election cycle anyway and they felt the change was good. We’ll see how this plays out in the upcoming days.
Lots of extra security in the city this week
Many more Bernie Sanders t-shirts and pins can be seen than Clinton advertising, by a factor of 10 to 1. I wore my Sanders t-shirt for a bit yesterday afternoon and many people verbalized their support. This is the same reaction I received in the Lehigh Valley. Has there ever been a candidate so popular that has not won the nomination?
We got in yesterday afternoon and went to see the Philadelphia Museum of Art downtown. I tried to reenact the famous running scene in the first Rocky movie, where Sylvester Stallone is running through the streets of Philadelphia and ends on the museum steps. Unfortunately the convention rented the museum last night and the steps were closed to the public. I did manage to do the run up to the steps and we took our picture at the Rocky statue near the museum. With the release of Creed this past year, we introduced the kids to the Rocky series and they loved them, so everyone was excited to see where the film took place.
It is so nice to be able to give the kids and Nadia, who is a US political junkie, the opportunity to see the convention up close and experience the excitement of process of electing the president.
My description of a perfect day would be an early morning spent reading/writing/thinking, being active (bicycle riding) in wilderness for most of the day, and finishing with a good meal with family and friends. This would cover my intellectual, spiritual, emotional and physical needs. Yesterday I had one of those days when we took advantage of a free day from classes at Lehigh University and rode the 25 mile-trail through the Lehigh gorge state park.
State officials have done a remarkable job of turning a disused and abused area into one that is thriving and still benefits many people. It is a classic gorge of steep rocky cliffs, much of it covered by tree, carved out by the flowing water of the Lehigh river. The gorge was used to transport coal and later harvested for timber as well as transporting logs, and after a couple of large fires, it was abandoned. The state obtained it in the 1970s and 40 years later, it is used by thousands of hikers, bikers and rafters yearly.
We rented bikes in White Haven and rode the 25 miles south to the scenic town of Jim Thorpe (formerly Mauch Chunk), Pennsylvania. We rode the same trail two years ago and we remember it as a struggle, but with the children two years older and our family riding more the past two years in Japan, the ride was easy. We could have ridden the 25 miles back, but instead took the shuttle back north to White Haven.
We had a few stops for swimming and throwing rocks in the river. The sound of a flowing river is so soothing and with the steep green walls and blue skies, the whole day was one of beauty. It is nice that the kids are getting older and we can do stuff like this with them. It also gives us a chance for conversations while we are putting in the long kilometers. To kill time waiting for the shuttle, we went back and found four geocaches along the trail that reignited the kids’ enthusiasm for geocaching. It is such an engaging activity for kids and it gives people the opportunity to see things they normally would pass by.
The view from the bike trail of the Lehigh river
I was nostalgic for my home in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan. The remnants of the mining industry, the numerous trees and rock outcroppings, brought back memories of my beloved homeland. The Appalachians are so beautiful!
For dinner, Nadia prepared grilled salmon covered with an avocado paste that was gourmet quality. The heat of the day turned into a cool breeze in the evening. A perfect summer day!
My favorite season is summer and I am loving the hot humid days and nights of July. The other night we went over to a local elementary school and played whiffle ball and in the school playground. After living 13 years in the tropics, I was done with hot weather, but now after 8 years in temperate climates, I once again appreciate summer. It is my preferred weather and so just trying to spend as much time outdoors as possible.
The other night the weather was absolutely perfect and the setting sun and fresh green leaves and grass provided for a relaxing evening of fun with my family. It was just one of those times that you wish could last forever.
Bill's Blog 