Category: Serbia

Posts about the culture, events, language, etc. of Serbia.

Serbia Versus France

billkralovec

 

I photographed this sign close to my house. It is in the Cyrillic script and reads in the Serbian Latin script, “Srce Na Teren” which in English translates to “Leave Your Heart On the Field.” I guess some other rough English translations would be to “Give 100%” “Do or Die” “There is No Tomorrow”. They are all sport cliches refering to the big World Cup Qualifying match that will occur September 9, 2009 (09.09.09).

Serbia leads the Group 7 European Qualifying for next summer’s World Cup in South Africa. They have a five point advantage over second place, and group favorite France. France has an extra game to play on September 5, hosting Romania. If they win, they will then come into the Serbia game only 2 points behind. After playing Serbia, France has only to host the tiny Faroe Islands and Austria in October when group play completes. Serbia has a bit tougher after France, hosting Romania and then traveling to Lithuania. So it looks like the September 9th game will decide the group winner. 

Serbia lost to France 1-2 back in September of last year. This is their only loss and they have been impressive, winning in Romania and Austria. France has stumbled twice, losing in Vienna and a draw in Romania. It will be a fantastic match. The team finishing second place in the group will have to play a second place team in another group to qualify for South Africa. I’ll definitely be blogging the game live. 

I have previously blogged about the Serbian soccer team here, and our near death experience here.

September 9th Update: I watched the game from my home. I had the High School Open House at my school the same night as the game. I got home in time to watch it. I saw the Serbian penalty goal. It didn’t look like much of a foul, but the ref had to call it. I think the red card was a bit excessive. Great penalty kick, however, and Serbia was up 1-0. France came back to equalize on a good goal by veteran Henry. I had to put my daughter to bed at halftime and missed the second half. I watched the highlights immediately after the game. Serbia hit the crossbar on one good attempt but couldn’t get another goal. 

I think they played well and with a tie, it makes next month’s game (Serbia hosting on Saturday October 10) with Romania huge. They are still four points clear of France, but with France hosting the Faroe Islands in the next round, they can expect France to get three points. A win at home against Romania would clinch a spot in South Africa. Another tie, and it will come down to the last game on Wednesday October 14. Serbia goes to Lithuania and France hosts Austria. 

Serbia controls their own destiny and I would like to see them beat Romania to earn their place in the World Cup this summer! 


 

Waterfront Property – Belgrade Style

billkralovec

 

Summer Cottages, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Having been involved in the real estate market in Michigan several years ago, I became aware of the idea of “waterfront” property. In Michigan, homes on a body of water like a lake or river, are much more expensive than homes not on the water.

Here in Belgrade, real estate in the city is very expensive. Apartments in the city go for 3,000 euros per square meter. Real estate in my neighborhod is even more expensive, as Senjak and Dedinje are “leafy” suburbs away and it looks like I live in a forest here, but only minutes from downtown. I don’t understand how Belgraders with such low average salaries, can afford apartments. I know many people who live with their parents. Also, many buy property or apartments in the outer suburbs which is much more reasonable. Country property is even cheaper, and I’ve been thinking of getting a piece of land in the country side.

Well, this weekend I snapped a photo across the Sava at these cottages. They are located on an island in the Sava River called “Ada Međica.” The funny đ has the sound of a j in Serbian. Ada Međica is a forested, 1 kilometer long, 200 meter wide island. There is no electricity and access is by boat only. The cottages either float or are built on stilts as the Sava in spring rises greatly. They are mostly owned by Belgraders who use them in the summer and on weekends. These cottages are found on the larger Ada Ciganlija and scattered on the banks of the Danube, although it is mostly forested.

My friend, whose wife’s business partner owns one of these, said they go for $7,000 – $15,000. On this particular island, the lone year-round resident, lets out the ropes on the cottages so they can float higher as the waters rise in the spring.

I think it would be great to have access to one. It would be fun to have a little motor boat and kayak and tool around the rivers. The Sava and Danube both intersect Belgrade and meet at the fortress. Lots of people have boats in Belgrade, most of them very modest, little boats. I can see in the future as Belgrade becomes more affluent and European, that will change to luxury yachts, but I hope not.

 

Our View from the Restaurant - The end of Ada Međica
Our View from the Restaurant - The end of Ada Međica

Fig Tree Harvest

billkralovec

 


This week the fig tree in our yard is chocker full of ripe figs. We can’t eat them fast enough and I am going to take a basket full of them to school today. I reckon there are probably 500 fruits on the tree.

The fig tree is quite small so the fruits can be picked easily. I have to get on a chair to get the top ones. I’ve seen many of these trees in Belgrade yards and gardens. The fig is native to Iran, Pakistan and the Mediterranean region. It was in the garden of Eden area (Iraq) and the leaf is the famous genital covering. I think Ollie should put one on because he is usually running around the yard naked!

 

The Cutting Edge of Fashion During the Time of Genesis
The Cutting Edge of Fashion During the Time of Genesis

 

 

The fruits when they ripen turn yellow and they split open. I wonder if fig wasps are using them? Nadia and I love them but the kids are not too keen on them. They are rich in calcium, vitamins, and antioxidants.

The Beautiful Women of Obrenovac

billkralovec

 

Gordana, Zhana, Nadia, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Lots of gorgeous women in the city of Obrenovac! These three friendly ladies made for a delightful afternoon. Zhana (middle) and her husband Hido hosted a wonderful party at their home. We went with the family and a classic Serbian BBQ (pork, gibenica, roasted peppers, etc.) and a warm, sunny day poolside. Couldn’t have ask for a better day! Thank you!

 

Šumidija Road - Obrenovac, Serbia
Šumidija Road - Obrenovac, Serbia

 

 

Obrenovac is about 30 kilometers south of Belgrade located in the region called Šumidija, which means “land of forests” in Serbian. This is the heartland of Serbia where the Hadjuks sought refuge from the Turks and where Black George began his rebellion. The area is exactly like the guidebooks describe it, a land where time has forgotten. There are bucolic scenes of old men tending their cows and sheep, bontiful orchards of apples and peaches, and lovely farmhouses. It is an area that harks back to a more rural, agricultural, past and this is how it must have been a couple generations ago.

 

The Kids and Adults Enjoyed the Pool
The Kids and Adults Enjoyed the Pool

Administrative Retreat – Kovačica “Relax Center”

billkralovec

 

Tim and Bane, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

This week we took two days and one night to get out of Belgrade and the school for our annual administrative retreat. Above are Tim M. the lower school principal and Bane N. the IT Director. They are enjoying the Dr. Evil like white Naughyde chairs in one of the conference rooms of the hotel.

We stayed at the Relax Center in Kovačica which is a small town located about 50 kilometers north of Belgrade. It is located on the Pannonian plain of Vojvodina. Kovaćica is one of the few towns that have a non-Serb majority. While Serbia is 85% Serb, Kovaćica has a majority Slovak population. When we went for a run around the town, we noticed it to be a big farming community, with many fields of corn, beans, pumpkins, sunflowers, etc. It reminded me of Iowa, with its flat topography and rich soils.

I couldn’t recommend staying at the Relax Center. It was Eastern European in design and quite modest, but it did have a nice pool. We also enjoyed the outdoor restaurant. We got a lot of work done and got ready for the year.

 

Najda Higl Is Featured on a Billboard in her Hometown of Pančevo, Serbia
Najda Higl Is Featured on a Billboard in her Hometown of Pančevo, Serbia

Above is a billboard in the city of Pančevo, Serbia, about 30 kilometers outside of Belgrade. Nadia Higl won the 200 breaststroke in last week’s World Swimming Championships in Rome. She came out of nowwhere, literally, from the first lane and mostly unknown, even in Serbia. Her father tatooed her winning time on his bald spot on his head. Serbia celebrated her and the water polo team that also won gold in the championships. They defeated Spain, 14-13 in a tremendous game. Water polo is big here and everyone was following the team, as well as the duel between Milorad Čavić and Micheal Phelps. I didn’t like Phelps after he won, he didn’t shake hands with Milorad.

Brodic Pizza

billkralovec

 

Monday evening I took the family to Brodic Pizza. “Brodic” comes from the word “brod” which means boat in Serbian. The “ic” diminutive would signify “little boat” or “boaty” in English. It is a very hip place!

 

A Barge Cruises Down the Sava At Sunset
A Barge Cruises Down the Sava At Sunset

 

 

The restaurant consists several old boats that are permanently anchored next to the banks of the Sava River, a major tributary of the Danube. On a hot summer evening in Belgrade, it made for the perfect atmosphere. We enjoyed cold drinks and laughs while watching the various boats going up and down the river.

It is hard to find because it looks like most of the old, derelict barges and boats that line much of the Sava River in the city. We always ran or biked on the path that goes right by it all last year and didn’t even notice it. It is across from the Sajam Convention complex, hall number 5. It is between Ada and the Railroad Bridge. 

 

A Tough Place To Find
A Tough Place To Find

 

 

“Splavs” (rafts or floats) are very popular in Belgrade. These are bars, discos, restaurants, weekend cabins, etc. that are found all along the Sava and Danube rivers in the city. They range from expensive restaurants near the Grand Casino in New Belgrade, to weekend cabins on the backside of Ada Ciganlija. We haven’t gone to these much but plan to explore this side of Belgrade. I am even considering getting a small boat or kayak to enjoy the rivers.

Brodic was full on a Monday night. A couple of boats anchored up and ordered food and drinks. It was very casual, with most of the crowd younger hippies and free spirits. The pizza was quite good, especially the thin crust which was loaded with sesame seeds. We prefer Pizza Hut to Brodic, but it was still excellent. I had my first Weifert beer and liked it. It is a less popular Serbian beer brewed in nearby Pancevo. Many of the teachers at school meet at the “pizza boat” on Friday afternoons when the weather is nice.

I highly recommend Brodic and will occasionally revisit.

New York Times Features Story on Serbia

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Photo Featured on Slide Show at the NY Times Web Site
Photo Featured on Slide Show at the NY Times Web Site
The New York Times Magazine today features a story about the fugitive  life of ex-Bosnian Serb President, Radovan Karadzic. Besides a long article, there is also a slide show on the NY Times web site. Above is one of the photos of an ultranationalist-themed bar that Karadzic used to frequent. I wonder what part of New Belgrade the “Mad House” (Luda Kuca) is located? The American author almost got beat up in the bar. The article does not put the Serbs in a good light because it focuses on a small segment of Serbian society. From reading the article, the foreign reader would get the impression that the Serbs are backwards due to their years of communism and believe in the charlatan pseudo medicine of Karadzic and his friends. It also gives the sense that Americans are not welcome in Serbia. The author was almost beat up in the bar above. The same would happen here if an Islamic reporter went to a bar in Caspian and started interviewing the local rednecks.
It is interesting to read about Karadzic’s life as a fugitive. We’ll be reading more about him as his trial begins in September.

Summer Holidays Begin

billkralovec

 



This is my last post from Belgrade until August. We are going on our annual summer holidays. This year we will be spending it in my hometown of Caspian, Michigan, USA. I’ll be blogging about our experiences there.

Above I am pictured with Oliver at the Dinosaurs Argentina Exhibition which is currently being held at the Continental Hotel Exhibition Center in New Belgrade. I highly recommend it for families. The boys loved it and learned a lot. Gigantosauras and the dinosaur eggs were especially a hit. You can click on the photo to see more of the exhibition. It features the fossil finds in the deserts of Patagonia in central and southern Argentina. The species found there are just as impressive as the more famous North American finds like T. Rex, etc. 

 

Heaven in My Hand
Heaven in My Hand

I also wanted to share the photo above. Great fresh produce in the various markets around Belgrade. Raspberries are my all  time favorite fruit (the other 4 in my top 5 fruits are blueberries, mangos, bananas, and watermelon). The Kralovec family are “fruit alcoholics” and we are consuming punnets of raspberries at a rate of 8 per day. My personal record is 3 and 1/2 in one sitting. 

Well, I must finish packing as we head west across Europe and the Atlantic.

Cockta: The Drink of Yugoslavia

billkralovec

 

Oliver is shown above enjoying a “Cockta” – a drink that was popular during the communist era of Yugoslavia, and which is making a comeback in 21rst century Balkans.

We first noticed it at the basketball games of Red Star. In the center of the floor was a big “Cockta” advert. I didn’t know how to pronounce it because I was going by the Serbian Latin pronounciation, which when there is a “c” it sounds like the “ts” of cats. Later I found out the name originates from a short form of cocktail, hence, “cockta.” An after riding the “cockta” train at Kalemegdan part a couple weeks ago, I needed to find out all about it. 

It was invented in the 1950’s in Slovenia. The drink was designed as an alternative to the capitalist west, Coca Cola. It became popular through a series of ads closely associated with the ski jumping in Slovenia. You can see all the adverts and read more about the drink on the company’s web site. Since then the company has new owners and I read it is making a comeback in the ex-Yugoslavia. I am not sure about market shares, but I see the adverts quite a bit here in Belgrade.

 

Always True Selection (A Bad Translation)
"Always The True Choice" (A Bad Translation) - Billboard in Belgrade

The soda pop looks like coca cola but has a much different taste. The key ingredient in the mix of 11 herbs, is extract from the dog rose berry. It gives is a distinctive taste and aroma. There is no cafeine  – part of one ad campaign says “If you want cafeine, go for a coffee, if you want milk – go for a cow” It does have sugar so it is not quite a health drink. 

Well, we had a Kralovec family taste test this weekend. Owen thought it tasted like medicine and Nadia thought it too bitter. Ocean is not drinking carbonated beverages yet. That left Ollie and I as the only ones who like it. Ollie orders it instead of coca cola now. I am not a big soda pop guy so I will not order it often. I admire anyone who tries to be original and go against the marketing juggernaut of Coca Cola. I recommend all visitors to Serbia to try one!

Silver Lake – Srebrno jezero

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Ocean at the Dock of the Silver Lake Resort
Ocean at the Dock of the Silver Lake Resort

While visiting the Golubac Castle, we stayed at the Silver Lake Hotel. The “Lake” is actually an extension of the Danube, or an “oxbow” in technical terms. Silver Lake is cut off from the Danube by a dam and the place is a popular holiday destination for Serbs. The hotel has seen better days and was probably built in the 1980’s during the communist era of Serbia. The staff was extremely friendly and despite the uncomfortable beds and foul-smelling tap water in the hotel, we really enjoyed our stay. The most important thing was the kids had a blast and that was the whole point of going.

We swam both Friday night and Saturday afternoon in the lake. We had a scare on Saturday morning. Nadia was applying sunscreen to Oliver and I was trying to catch a frog for Owen. Ocean happened to go into the water and slipped and went under the surface. Owen yelled immediately, warning me, and a I quickly pulled her out. It was a good lesson for us on taking three children to a body of water. An accident can happen so quickly and we need to be extra vigilant. Ocean was a bit scared, but quickly lived up to her name and went back into the water. It was extremely hot and the cool water of the Danube made it a pleasant day. I am always amazed at the fascination kids have with the water’s edge. They could have played there the entire day.

A resort is being developed there. It is like a gated community, with I assume most of the vacation cottages being built by Belgraders wanting a vacation home. There are several restaurants as well as a marina, tennis club, stores, etc. I read of plans to build newer hotels, which would be nice. There were many ads offering rooms and apartments for rent also.

The Boys Enjoying A Mid Summer Nights Swim
The Boys Enjoying A Mid Summer Night's Swim

The place reminded me of the lakes in Michigan as well as a bit of Ada Ciganlija, but without the crowds. I would go back, but perhaps renting a private apartment instead of going to the hotel. Some of the other highlights were catching frogs, a fantastic lunch at the Amici Restaurant, and the quiet escape from the city. Nadia went for a run and we discovered a bike trail that goes along the river and definitely worth coming back with bicycles on a weekend. The waiters at the restaurant loved our children and appreciated my learning of Serbian. I am actually starting to be able to communicate in Serbian!