Nadia, Owen, Oliver and Ocean – The Kralovec Family
Last night as part of the Teacher Orientation we took a cruise on the Sava and Danube rivers to get some nice views of the city. The kids had a ball, as you can see above!
It was the first time I was on a boat here in Belgrade. The Danube smelled a bit from the pollution (smrdi monogo) “smells really bad” but the sunset and breeze was nice. Nadia had a lot of laughs were the ladies in the business office. It is nice to do the tourist activities in your own city.
Summer Cottages, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.
Having been involved in the real estate market in Michigan several years ago, I became aware of the idea of “waterfront” property. In Michigan, homes on a body of water like a lake or river, are much more expensive than homes not on the water.
Here in Belgrade, real estate in the city is very expensive. Apartments in the city go for 3,000 euros per square meter. Real estate in my neighborhod is even more expensive, as Senjak and Dedinje are “leafy” suburbs away and it looks like I live in a forest here, but only minutes from downtown. I don’t understand how Belgraders with such low average salaries, can afford apartments. I know many people who live with their parents. Also, many buy property or apartments in the outer suburbs which is much more reasonable. Country property is even cheaper, and I’ve been thinking of getting a piece of land in the country side.
Well, this weekend I snapped a photo across the Sava at these cottages. They are located on an island in the Sava River called “Ada Međica.” The funny đ has the sound of a j in Serbian. Ada Međica is a forested, 1 kilometer long, 200 meter wide island. There is no electricity and access is by boat only. The cottages either float or are built on stilts as the Sava in spring rises greatly. They are mostly owned by Belgraders who use them in the summer and on weekends. These cottages are found on the larger Ada Ciganlija and scattered on the banks of the Danube, although it is mostly forested.
My friend, whose wife’s business partner owns one of these, said they go for $7,000 – $15,000. On this particular island, the lone year-round resident, lets out the ropes on the cottages so they can float higher as the waters rise in the spring.
I think it would be great to have access to one. It would be fun to have a little motor boat and kayak and tool around the rivers. The Sava and Danube both intersect Belgrade and meet at the fortress. Lots of people have boats in Belgrade, most of them very modest, little boats. I can see in the future as Belgrade becomes more affluent and European, that will change to luxury yachts, but I hope not.
Ocean, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.
Ocean is shown above at the beach across from Ada Ciganlija. Ada has been called the “Belgrade Sea” and there were thousands of people Sunday swimming. It was a sunny, warm weekend and we enjoyed some traditional summer activities. Nadia and I are very happy to enjoy the four seasons once again after so many years in the tropics.
Ocean loves the water, probably the most of the three kids. Belgraders love the outdoors and are not very self-concious of their bodies, as there were all sorts of humanity on display. Nadia and I love to see women walking away from the beach to the bus stop in their bikini – it harkens back to 1973 in the USA. Women just don’t do that anymore in the USA.
We also went shopping on Saturday to the commissary at the Embassy, Mercatur, etc. I took a long nap on Saturday also. Owen and I went for a bike ride along the Sava. Sad to see so much garbage.
The Kralovec family is also following with great interest, the World Championship Track and Field meet in Berlin this week. Usain Bolt was amazing last night with 9.58 in the 100 m. He looked like he was going for a jog in the park. I also can’t believe how loose he is in the starting blocks. He was joking around with his teammate, hamming it up for the camera. Then on the world’s most important race for the year, just like the final in Beijing, he sets the world record. He can even go faster! I can’t wait to see him in the 200 meters. Serbia has 5 athletes that qualified, their best chance for a medal is in today’s triple jump.
We had a fantastic night Friday at the Grand Casino in New Belgrade, on the banks of the Sava River. This was the first time we went to the casino. There is an interesting Serbian law that forces people to become members of the casino. You have to have a photo identification and fill out some paperwork. I am shown above with my card.
Other than the membership thing, the casino was similar to others around the world. We felt good and had some friendly dealers on the black jack and roulette tables. I think the ghost of Tito was helping us, as we kept betting on red. We are Red Star fans, and with Tito’s former socialist resort, the abandoned Hotel Jugoslavia next door, red kept on hitting. The casino is owned by a Greek company and partly by the Serbian Lottery. It is really nice and as usual, everyone was very friendly.
I lived in Nevada for two years, one of the US states with legalized gambling. My thoughts on gambling and casinos are as follows:
1) It is a fun night out! We take $100 and have the philosophy that we’re going to have $100 worth of entertainment. If we lose, we are going to have fun doing it. We never go back and get more “ammo” or money.
2) I love the social aspects of the roulette and black jack tables. Strangers sitting around the table kind of become a team against the dealer, and the thrill of victory and agony of defeat are fun when you have a good group. We laughed quite a bit with the others on the table! We also placed bets on each other’s squares on the black jack table, gave each other advice, etc.
3) Slot machines are absolutely boring and I don’t see the addiction of them. In fact, I don’t see how gambling can be addictive, but it is. I had friends that needed to take a second job in Nevada to pay off their gambling debts.
4) Don’t go to casinos to win money – you won’t, at least over the long term. The odds are in favor of the casino for every game.
I would love to buy and renovate the Hotel Jugoslavia. I would make it a communist/socialist kitsch theme. All the rooms, lobby, etc, would be decorated with a modern, comfortable version of the socialist furniture, and decorating schemes. I envision morning calenstetics in Soviet jumpsuits, a baton run along the river, a Tito mascot meeting and greeting guests. The possibilities are endless! If anyone with lots of money wants to help me with my dream, I’ll gladly be the artistic and historic consultant on doing it right. I think it would make a mint. Especially with Eastern Europe quickly changing to exactly like the rest of Europe.
This week the fig tree in our yard is chocker full of ripe figs. We can’t eat them fast enough and I am going to take a basket full of them to school today. I reckon there are probably 500 fruits on the tree.
The fig tree is quite small so the fruits can be picked easily. I have to get on a chair to get the top ones. I’ve seen many of these trees in Belgrade yards and gardens. The fig is native to Iran, Pakistan and the Mediterranean region. It was in the garden of Eden area (Iraq) and the leaf is the famous genital covering. I think Ollie should put one on because he is usually running around the yard naked!
The fruits when they ripen turn yellow and they split open. I wonder if fig wasps are using them? Nadia and I love them but the kids are not too keen on them. They are rich in calcium, vitamins, and antioxidants.
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Palacinkes, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.
I can’t say enough how friendly the Serbs have been to us. Nadia is shown above eating palačinkes and homemade apricot jam. Our neighbor Radko, brought them over today. Delicious! This is another example of how nice we have been treated in Belgrade. Palačinkes are translated many times as “pancakes” but they are more like crepes.
We had a nice BBQ for some of the new teachers from the school. Some commented that was one of the big first impressions. The general easy-going nature of the locals and their kindess.
New teacher orientation begins tomorrow.
Gordana, Zhana, Nadia, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.
Lots of gorgeous women in the city of Obrenovac! These three friendly ladies made for a delightful afternoon. Zhana (middle) and her husband Hido hosted a wonderful party at their home. We went with the family and a classic Serbian BBQ (pork, gibenica, roasted peppers, etc.) and a warm, sunny day poolside. Couldn’t have ask for a better day! Thank you!
Obrenovac is about 30 kilometers south of Belgrade located in the region called Šumidija, which means “land of forests” in Serbian. This is the heartland of Serbia where the Hadjuks sought refuge from the Turks and where Black George began his rebellion. The area is exactly like the guidebooks describe it, a land where time has forgotten. There are bucolic scenes of old men tending their cows and sheep, bontiful orchards of apples and peaches, and lovely farmhouses. It is an area that harks back to a more rural, agricultural, past and this is how it must have been a couple generations ago.
Tim and Bane, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.
This week we took two days and one night to get out of Belgrade and the school for our annual administrative retreat. Above are Tim M. the lower school principal and Bane N. the IT Director. They are enjoying the Dr. Evil like white Naughyde chairs in one of the conference rooms of the hotel.
We stayed at the Relax Center in Kovačica which is a small town located about 50 kilometers north of Belgrade. It is located on the Pannonian plain of Vojvodina. Kovaćica is one of the few towns that have a non-Serb majority. While Serbia is 85% Serb, Kovaćica has a majority Slovak population. When we went for a run around the town, we noticed it to be a big farming community, with many fields of corn, beans, pumpkins, sunflowers, etc. It reminded me of Iowa, with its flat topography and rich soils.
I couldn’t recommend staying at the Relax Center. It was Eastern European in design and quite modest, but it did have a nice pool. We also enjoyed the outdoor restaurant. We got a lot of work done and got ready for the year.
Above is a billboard in the city of Pančevo, Serbia, about 30 kilometers outside of Belgrade. Nadia Higl won the 200 breaststroke in last week’s World Swimming Championships in Rome. She came out of nowwhere, literally, from the first lane and mostly unknown, even in Serbia. Her father tatooed her winning time on his bald spot on his head. Serbia celebrated her and the water polo team that also won gold in the championships. They defeated Spain, 14-13 in a tremendous game. Water polo is big here and everyone was following the team, as well as the duel between Milorad Čavić and Micheal Phelps. I didn’t like Phelps after he won, he didn’t shake hands with Milorad.
I am doing a series of profiles of the local employees of the International School of Belgrade. The profiles will be posted on our school’s web site. The purpose is for the expat teachers and families to get to know them better. Often, time and language barriers prevent this. I am posting on my web page, some of the people I work with closely. The first is my secretary Bojana, who is pictured below as well as her profile.
Bojana is 28 years old and from Pljevlja, Montenegro. Pljevlja is a city of 40,000 located in the northern part of Montenegro where Serbia, Montenegro, and Bosnia meet. Administration runs in her blood, as both of her parents work in the field. Her father manages an electrical plant and her mother is a court administrator. They both live in Pljevlja where her father Voja, is an enthusiastic beekeeper. They own their grandfather’s country home and spend much time there.
Upon graduating from high school, Bojana moved to Belgrade to attend the University of Philology where she earned a degree in English Literature. She returned to Montenegro for a year and a half to work as a translator for a coal mining company. The coal mine’s loss was our gain when she was hired as the ISB Lower School Receptionist in 2007. Bojana’s brother Bojan, also lives in Belgrade where he is studying law at Union University. Bojan plans to join his uncle’s law firm upon graduation.
Bojana has another Bojan in her life- her fiancée Bojan and she plans to wed in 2010. He is finishing his degree at a sports school in Belgrade and is a successful handball coach. Bojana’s future plans include the wedding and shortly thereafter starting a family. She is also completing a Master’s Degree from Podogorica University in Diplomacy and intends to finish next year.
It has been great working with Bojana and she helps me tremendously. Thanks Bojana! By the way, she is the first Montenegrin I have ever met.
Monday evening I took the family to Brodic Pizza. “Brodic” comes from the word “brod” which means boat in Serbian. The “ic” diminutive would signify “little boat” or “boaty” in English. It is a very hip place!
The restaurant consists several old boats that are permanently anchored next to the banks of the Sava River, a major tributary of the Danube. On a hot summer evening in Belgrade, it made for the perfect atmosphere. We enjoyed cold drinks and laughs while watching the various boats going up and down the river.
It is hard to find because it looks like most of the old, derelict barges and boats that line much of the Sava River in the city. We always ran or biked on the path that goes right by it all last year and didn’t even notice it. It is across from the Sajam Convention complex, hall number 5. It is between Ada and the Railroad Bridge.
“Splavs” (rafts or floats) are very popular in Belgrade. These are bars, discos, restaurants, weekend cabins, etc. that are found all along the Sava and Danube rivers in the city. They range from expensive restaurants near the Grand Casino in New Belgrade, to weekend cabins on the backside of Ada Ciganlija. We haven’t gone to these much but plan to explore this side of Belgrade. I am even considering getting a small boat or kayak to enjoy the rivers.
Brodic was full on a Monday night. A couple of boats anchored up and ordered food and drinks. It was very casual, with most of the crowd younger hippies and free spirits. The pizza was quite good, especially the thin crust which was loaded with sesame seeds. We prefer Pizza Hut to Brodic, but it was still excellent. I had my first Weifert beer and liked it. It is a less popular Serbian beer brewed in nearby Pancevo. Many of the teachers at school meet at the “pizza boat” on Friday afternoons when the weather is nice.
I highly recommend Brodic and will occasionally revisit.
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