The Grittier Side of Osaka

A street side bar in Nishinari-ku, Osaka
A street side bar in Nishinari-ku, Osaka

Last night my daughter Ocean and I went on yomawari (night walk) in the Kamagasaki neighborhood of the Osaka ward of Nishinari-ku. Our school cooperates with the Sanno Children’s Center in their monthly walks to help the homeless of the city. The area is poorest in Osaka with 1/3 of the residents on welfare and a population of aging day laborers that live on the edge of subsistence, often finding themselves without shelter. Ocean is a very empathetic little girl and for her “genius hour” in school, is forming a club to help homeless. I wanted to encourage this so I supported her in going with the older students of the school. IB world schools put an emphasis on community service and the high school students for years have been helping out at the center. The center is also supports poor families by providing a place of refuge, entertainment and inspiration for children.

A homeless man on a street arcade in Nishinari-ku.
A homeless man on a street arcade in Nishinari-ku.

It is about a 45 minute train ride from our neighborhood to Kamagasaki and the differences can be seen immediately. Japan is unlike other countries in that wealth is not displayed as much. I think the culture of respect for others and the collective over the individual does this. Our neighborhood of Onohara-nishi is one of the nicest I’ve seen in Japan, but it is not like Los Angeles’s Bel Air or Detroit’s Bloomfield Hills. The buildings are grungier and the area is filled with cheap karaoke bars, coin operated laundries, etc. It is much neater than poor neighborhoods in other countries that to the local culture of tidiness and organization.

We met and helped around 6 homeless men. They cover themselves with a cardboard box (photo above) and sleep under the roof of the shopping arcades that are common in Kamagasaki. The kids delivered food, blankets and toiletries and the men were quite appreciative. The center is hosting community party today and the men were given a ticket for them to come and get a good meal.

At the children's center getting ready to go out.
At the children’s center getting ready to go out.

We cannot make next month’s night patrol (December 24) but hope to get back in January. It was an unusually warm November evening last night, but when it is cold, it must be tough to be on the streets.

I am also making a point to capture the small moments in my blog. Ocean the other morning woke up and told me about a dream she had. She said I led the family on a hike to a “poison place” in the desert. I jumped into a waterfall and at the end of the hike, there were buckets filled with poison. Oliver tipped one over and she said I jumped between her and the poison to save her. However, a bird picked up a bucket and dropped the poison on us and we all died. This comes from my insistence that the kids go on hikes and experience wilderness and my wife Nadia, a city girl, always thinks I am taking it to the extreme. It is my goal to instill in the kids a love of the outdoors. A funny dream.

Ocean & Oliver on NHK World

 

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The Japan Broadcasting Corporation (NHK) the largest media company in Japan recently featured a story on Oliver and Ocean and their friends performing in the Noh theatre performance last week. NHK has an English language channel for the international market called NHK World. On their nightly news program, Newsroom Tokyo, they broadcast the story of OIS students learning Noh theatre. Ocean’s interview starts at around the 5:30 mark of the 6:00 minute video. Above is the screen grab, and below is the entire video on YouTube.

My Thoughts on the US Presidential Elections

I wanted to put down for posterity, my experience of the elections this year. I was totally caught by surprise by Donald Trump’s win. All of the “experts” were giving him such a small chance to win that I thought it was a sure thing for Hillary Clinton.

We follow politics very closely in the Kralovec house due to my wife’s interest in US politics. She loves the primaries, the debates, the SNL parodies, the punditry, etc. Her favorite channel is CNN. Because of this, the kids and I knew of all the events of the long campaign in good detail. We also experienced the campaign for ourselves. Nadia, Oliver and Ocean participated in a rally for Bernie Sanders in the main city of Guam, Hagatna, while we there for spring break in March. We also soaked up the atmosphere of the democratic national convention in Philadelphia this past summer. We stayed in the same hotel at the democratic delegates from Connecticut and Georgia and walked around downtown.

My preferred candidate was Bernie Sanders. I liked that he was focused on the expense of higher education (the only candidate talking about education), universal health care and income inequality. He also voted against going to war in Iraq. Finally, he was the only non-millionaire in the race. Hillary Clinton has used her political connections to earn $23 million dollars last year. Sander’s wife filed their taxes for $200,000 in income. Hillary Clinton has lost touch with the daily lives of most Americans.

Every election is about demographics in my opinion. Trump won because rural, white, generally blue collar people could identify with him. The split between the entertainment centers of Hollywood and New York, the multinational corporations and business world of Wall Street and Delaware and the university educated with rural and middle class America has grown. White, non-college educated saw Clinton as part of that world, not part of their world. I want to talk about my personal demographic. I am from what the media calls the “rust belt”. My parents were democrats. They both believed in unions, being educators, and living in a state where the auto industry had powerful unions. You do not hear much about unions these days and the wages and benefits of most American workers has declined since my parents’ time. You need to have two people working to have a decent life, whereas before, only one person needed to work. I grew up in rural Upper Michigan so I totally understand the lifestyle and view of Trump supporters. I am far removed from that today, with advanced degrees and living an expatriate cosmopolitan lifestyle. I am not rich however, being a teacher, so still have a foot on both sides.  University of Wisconsin professor Kathy Cramer describes this divide brilliantly in this Washington Post interview.

I lodged a protest vote in Michigan for Bernie Sanders. I did so because I couldn’t get myself to vote for Clinton. I do feel that president Obama did a lot of good things, but not strongly enough. I feel Washington DC has lost touch with the middle class and both the republicans and democrats are too much influenced by special interest groups, lobbyists backed by rich interests, rich people, etc. Besides, I thought, according to everything I read, Trump could never win. In retrospect, I don’t think my one vote mattered anyway and even with Bernie Sanders, it would have been close. My Bernie Sanders t-shirt did and still does, generates lots of positive reactions in people. The structure of the electoral college favors rural voters and it takes an inspirational candidate from the democrats to overcome this. Clinton will win the popular vote but lose resoundingly in the electoral college. Is that right? It sounded to me that the Democratic National Committee rigged the system so Clinton would be the candidate. Bernie came from nowhere and just didn’t have enough time to overcome Clinton in the primaries. Would Bernie Sanders have been that candidate? In any case, I agree with Dan Carlin and believe that the dominance of the two main parties and the way they choose candidates needs to be changed! I want more of a choice and I want better candidates!

It is fascinating that the US elected such a crass, uncultured, shady businessman like Trump to run the country when we have so many hardworking, brilliant, caring people. I kind of hope through his craziness Trump blows up both parties and we have some other voices and interests being able to lead our government. It will be an interesting 4 years, although early signs indicate that he is appointing Republican dinosaurs and others like Newt Gingrich and his boys Giuliani and Christie. Not promising for progressives like myself.

Hike to Katsuoji Temple

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With Nadia not feeling well today, I took the kids on a long hike through the Meiji-no-mori Minoh quasi national park up the Katsuoji temple. It was the first cold day of the year with temperatures in the 50s (11C). It was a refreshing walk under the trees which are a couple of weeks away from peak color. It was so relaxing to be talking and walking with my children in nature. I’ve been really busy at work and it was so good to reconnect with the kids. The highlight for Ollie and Ocean was feeding the nishikigoi (ornamental carp – basically giant gold fish). The hardy fish are regarded as good luck and are quite appropriate in the temple devoted to good fortune. Carp banners are flown above Japanese homes on May 5, children’s day in Japan. The nishikigoi was originally selectively bred in Niigata prefecture, north of Tokyo, from mutant black carp.

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Oliver and I took on Ocean and Owen in street basketball, with Owen making a last second shot to have them win. Then we rode bikes up to the entrance trail. On the way back, Ocean and I bought some hamburger buns and we grilled burgers for dinner. I then took a long nap, to be woken by another shaking earthquake, not a strong as the jishin from a couple of weeks ago, but enough to rouse me from a dream. It felt like the shaking was part of my dream.

We have a couple more weeks before a much needed fall break. I am looking forward to the colors and cooler temperatures of autumn.

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Selfie with Ocean

 

 

 

Oliver and Ocean Star in Noh Theatre

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The main character seeks help of foreign birds

Friday night Oliver and Ocean had the unique opportunity to perform with the Yamamoto Noh theatre group. Noh is an ancient (800+ years) form of theatre in Japan. The culture here is resistant to change and so many parts of their culture are preserved to the present day (e.g. see Sumo). It is awesome, in the original sense of the word, to participate in the cutting edge form of entertainment from the year 1200. It is like seeing the YouTube videos of today, 800 years from now!

The Yamamoto theatre of Osaka received a grant from the government to encourage exposure of Japanese culture to international people in anticipation of the 2020 Tokyo Olympics. Choreographers and directors came to our school and trained the students in the art of Noh. The performance took place in the Grand Front Osaka mall in front of several hundred people as well as shoppers and commuters passing by.

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Ocean backstage

It is fascinating to watch a noh performance There is a band of percussionists that make strange vocalizations and strike their drums at odd times. There is a kneeling chorus singing in a low tone. The actors move about in tight movements, every gesture having meaning. Actors wearing masks can’t see through them, so they memorize their steps. They all use a deep, strained voice. You have to see it as it is hard to describe. It is a long way from Broadway. Yamamoto is a professional organization so the performance was top quality with great sound, costumes, lighting, etc. .

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They used the students in a nice way to lighten the performance. The play was composed in 2009 and it is about conservation of water in Osaka. A traveller to Osaka (then known as Naniwa) is saddened by the polluted rivers and ocean of Osaka bay. Foreign birds (played by OIS students) come and with the help of the water goddess, clean the Osakan waters and everyone lives happily in a clean, healthy environment. Oliver said in Spanish about a waterfall in Sucre, Bolivia that we hiked to a couple of summers ago.

It was such an amazing experience and thanks to everyone who made it possible.

72 Hours in Kuala Lumpur

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The Petronas Towers at Night 

I visited the capital of Malaysia last week for the annual East Asian Regional Council of Schools (EARCOS) conference for administrators in international schools. Most of my time was spent at workshops, speeches and receptions, but I did get out a bit to see some of the city and meet the people of Kuala Lumpur (KL). Malaysia is interesting to me because it is a moderate Islamic country. The Malays converted to Islam through interaction with Arab traders in the 1400s. 60% of the population of the country is ethnically Malay, with significant Chinese and Indian populations. There were also lots of European tourists and residents. The Chinese and Indians are allowed to practice their religions, in fact, the city was full of color and light celebrating Deepavali, the Hindu festival of lights. I got the impression that the three groups tolerate each other and there is not much interaction.

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Hotel Lobby 

The contrast between a Chinese woman in tight shorts and a low cut shirt to a Malay woman with a headscarf and long robes was striking. As with many Islamic countries, inter Islamic tourism was apparent, but there is a disturbing trend (in my opinion) of Malays becoming more fundamentalist and women dressing in the full, black covering like I saw in the gulf region. Indian and Chinese taxi drivers complained about the dominance of the Malays in a humorous way.

The Petronas Towers look like a huge alien “death star-like” ship that has landed on earth. They are absolutely massive and show off the wealth generated by Petronas, the government petroleum company. They dwarfed the Exxon Mobil building across the park from the towers. We were staying at a hotel on the park in front of the Towers. The 1.3 kilometer loop was convenient to run in an otherwise cement city. The traffic is lighter than Bangkok and Macau, however.

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The sounds and sights of the urban tropics

 The city was built in a tropical rainforest and before I left, I managed a short trip in the rain over to the botanical gardens. I wanted to see some of the distinctive plants and birds of the Old World Tropics. The lipstick palm (Cyrtostachys renda) did not disappoint and they had a great collection of storks which visitors could approach quite closely. It is an impressive conservation area in a city of over 7 million people. I loved the sound of the branch-broom sweeping away the leaves on the sidewalks in the morning. An action that is found worldwide in the tropics.

I will be visiting Singapore over the Christmas and New Year holidays and hope to get back into explore some more of Malaysia. As with almost every country, it has a more laid back feel than Japan and has an interesting ethnic mix, different from homogeneous Japan which makes it a nice get away.

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Botanical Gardens of Kuala Lumpur

Jishin! Jishin!

 

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I learned the word for earthquake in Japanese yesterday in dramatic fashion. My cell phone and others around me suddenly started buzzing around 2:00 PM with the word jishin and some other instructions I did not understand. It was the advanced warning system here in Japan and it gave us a few seconds to take cover to protect ourselves from an earthquake. I don’t know how they do it, but it provided me a surreal moment, waiting for the anticipated shaking and possible destruction. I froze a bit, but not out of fear but out of excitement and anticipation of the experience. I didn’t go fully under the desk because I wanted to see what would happen. The shaking started slowly and then I could feel the entire building swaying slowly back and forth. A strange sensation!

The epicenter was 11 kilometers deep and around 300 kilometers away from us. Minoh is approximately where the arrow is and the epicenter is the red “x” in the Tottori prefecture. It is one of our favorite vacation spots with mountains and sand dunes. The intensity measured 6 shindo (degree of shaking)on the Japanese earthquake measuring scale which is slightly different from the Richter scale. I would say it was between a 3 and 4 in Minoh, our suburb of Osaka.

Everyone handled the emergency well and were calm and took shelter under a desk or table at school. After the shaking stopped, we checked the NHK news and upon finding out it was far away, we resumed classes as normal.

I won’t forget the experience nor the word, jishin. 

 

Ollie & Ocean’s Soccer Teams

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We had a great day yesterday at the annual Falcon Cup soccer tourney on Rokko Island. My friend Trevor and I coached the teams this year. We took 34 elementary students making up 6 teams. With tears, shouts of joy, wins, losses through 25 games (14 wins) the student-athletes enjoyed the day.

Oliver’s team had some tough luck in the knockout rounds, losing in penalty kicks after dominating play in the first game and in the second game, they lost 2-1 on a penalty kick. They were placed in the bottom-8 tourney (22 teams total) and played through and won that group in an exciting penalty kick final. (video below). Oliver had a lot of goals including the two in the videos in this post.

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Ocean played her first competitive soccer games. She scored 6 goals in her games, including the lone goal in the third/fourth place game which the team lost 2-1.  Ocean is excited to play soccer and joined the after school club at the school. I am very happy that she likes sports!

 

Happy Health and Sports Day!

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One of my favorite holidays in Japan is the national “health and sports” day. It commemorates the opening day of the 1964 Tokyo Olympics . Two years later is was made a national holiday and is celebrated on the second Monday in October. The purpose of the day is to promote an active, healthy lifestyle. What a great idea! Every country should have a day like this. Most businesses are closed and the weather in mid-October is usually really nice which is conducive to doing something active outdoors.

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Schools in Japan hold a sort of sports carnival on this day or a weekend close to it. As you can see in the photos in this post, Ocean and Oliver enjoyed our school’s sports day. They played water polo in the morning and field / athletic events in the afternoon. Owen participated in the middle school events, including winning the obstacle course. The day was marked by dance performances, picnics and music.

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Owen rounds third in a recent baseball game

Thanks to Steve Lewis for the photos of my children being active!

An interesting side note, the 1964 Tokyo Olympics were held in October to avoid the rainy season and humid summers that are typical of the islands of Japan. The 2020 Olympics do not do this, starting July 24 and running until August 9.

 

WJAA Champions!

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Owen rounds third (photo S. Lewis)

Owen’s middle school baseball team finished the season again undefeated with a 4-1 victory of Sons of the Light International Christian School yesterday in the finals of the Western Japan Athletic Association tournament. In the finals, Owen played centerfield and scored one of the four runs. His friend Euan, pitched a 2-hitter complete game, and had a perfect game going into the last inning. The Senri & Osaka International School Sabers have now taken four consecutive middle school boys baseball titles and the past two years went undefeated. They haven’t lost a game since 2014.

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Earlier in the day, Owen pitched a complete game in the semifinals against Canadian Academy, allowing only one run. He had a great season and really enjoyed baseball. He also follows MLB and NPB so I think I’ve done my part to create a lifelong baseball fan. Basketball starts next week so expect some more blog posts.

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