Single Parenthood Continues

The Kids Interpret the Works of Travanov

Nadia’s flight was delayed coming out of Dubai yesterday. She was forced to spend the night in Istanbul and she will be coming back today in the afternoon. We were all disappointed not to see her on Valentine’s Day.

What to do with young children in miserable weather conditions? Temperatures are hovering around freezing and Belgrade is at its ugliest in February. There are only patches of snow, brown grass, mud and water everywhere make it difficult to do anything with my kids outside. After running some errands in the morning, I took them to the Salon of the Museum of Contemporary Art of Belgrade. There is an exhibition by Belgrade artist Srba Travanov showing this month. As you can see if you follow the links provided, the guy looks like your typical European Av ant Gard artist. It reminds me of the Saturday Night Live parodies by Mike Myer, playing the character Dieter. The boys enjoyed the exhibition. They are very interested in form and function and for each piece, they made up what it would do. Travanov took old technological tools (typewriters, manual oil pumps, pencil sharpeners and made works of art out of them. He is also into the old petroleum derricks. His interview on the museum’s website is hilarious.

It is called the “salon” – room, because the museum does have a beautiful entire building in New Belgrade that can hold up to 5,000 pieces of art. Unfortunately, it has been closed for “renovation” since I arrived three years ago. Can someone put some money into the place to get it done. It would be good for the cultural life of the city as well as another tourist attraction. I wonder what the politics or economics are behind the scenes of this museum.

In the afternoon we did the Delta City Megamarathon. Delta City is one of the large shopping malls in the city. We did bowling, movie (Disney’s Rapunzel “Tangled”, which was excellent by the way in the classic Disney way), and food court. After a bath and reading books, they all kissed me good night and went to bed. Once again, an amazing day with my children. They are my Austrian Alps for this Ski Week holiday.

 

 

 

 

Finding a Work-Life Balance

 

A few days ago I watched a Ted.com talk by author Nigel Marsh. He wrote a couple of books about finding a balance in our lives between work and family – “Fat, Forty, and Fired” and “Overworked & Underlaid.

His ideas resonated with me and I feel that when I get busy at work with consecutive 10+ hour days, I am missing something. He didn’t come up with any formulas, but his main message was to make small choices. He described a call from his wife asking him to leave work early to pick up his son from school. She was busy with the other three children and needed some help with the kids. Marsh went picked up his son and they hung out in the park and went for a bite to eat. He finished the night by reading his son a story and putting him to bed. His son said this was the best day of his life.

I try to keep in mind that my children and wife for that matter, are so precious that if I can make any small choices to find a bit more time with them, the better. I am not a business or bank executive like Mr. Marsh was, and I am blessed that education is a profession that is more family-friendly than most professions, but there are times when I feel out of balance. Work demands overtake time spent with my children, time spent renewing the relationship with my wife, and time spent taking care of my personal health and fitness and well-being.

I spent an entire day yesterday with my three children. Nadia is out of city on a conference and I have all three. We survived day number 2 in fine style, although I did lose my patience a couple of times. Owen is shown above at the Guitar Art Festival Expo at the Continental Hotel. He plays the guitar and I wanted to encourage him and the other two to play music. Ollie loves the drums. Hopefully after the basketball season is over, I can learn the piano and my dream of a family band can be realized. I’m looking for stuff to do at home that doesn’t include a screen! Owen wants an electric guitar and Ollie wants a drum set, and I want a keyboard. We’ll see where this goes…

Ocean - Tata doesn't know how to brush girls' hair (sorry Nadia)

When I am in charge of the kids, I prefer doing stuff rather than just sitting at home. It makes it easier for me and the boys instead of me scrambling around trying to keep the house clean and nothing gets broken. In the morning we went to the school’s bubble and played tennis and basketball. In the late afternoon after a hike around our new neighborhood, we went and saw “Medved Yogi – Yogi Bear” and ate a pizza at Vapiano. The weather is cold and the melting snow makes everything wet and muddy, so the more we can do indoors, the better.

It was great to hang out with the kids all day and I have another one today. Our neighborhood, Dedinje, means “old man’s hill” and below is the view from top of the hill looking east into the suburbs of Belgrade.

Owen and Bill Go to the Belgrade Philharmonic

With Nadia at an Educational Conference in Dubai until Monday, I have a full weekend with the kids. We are starting the Ski Week Holiday also on Monday so I’ll have more time to blog.

We started the holiday last night by playing some pick up basketball at the school with the teachers. Owen and I then went to Kolorac Hall in downtown Belgrade to watch the Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra. We have season tickets for the “New Years Cycle” which is a series of six concerts having the theme of New Year. Last night it was the theme was Chinese New Year, which the actual date happened earlier this month. It is the year of the Rabbit.

The concert last night featured a Chinese pianist named Haochen Zhang. The first piece was aptly a piano concerto and the big Steinway was in the center of the stage. Zhang came out and played Tchaikovsky’s Piano Concerto Number 1. Zhang made it look easy. The highlight for me was introducing Owen to the orchestra and the different instruments and Tchaikovsky. He did fall asleep in the second movement, but did get to get the feeling of it. The theater was warm (In Serbia in the winter, everyone cranks the heat because they are afraid of cold drafts causing sicknesses.) and cozy.

The video above is Zhang playing a Chinese folk song which I’ve heard before in some movie. I really like the song and if any reader of my blog knows the name of it, please send it my way.

If I Were King of Serbia

The Party is Over (4:00 PM - Serbian Parliament Building)

The Serbian Progressive Party rally yesterday in Belgrade was really a non-event for me. I was busy reading questions for the Knowledge Bowl (see our school’s blog for more information on that event) at the school during the rally. I did get down around 4:00 PM and snapped a few photos, but by that time, everyone was gone and the moving trucks were taking down the stage. Estimates from the B92 put the number at around 55, 00o.  As this commentator put it on the B92 website,

The usual blabla from these two guys. 55 thds people that mostly came from south and central Serbia in buses! As always these people most probably received some daily allowance to participate!
It is certainly important to have a good opposition but when it comes to these two, apart from critics I have never heard, read any mention of a program that make sense or could change the situation in Serbia. So waste of time and money.

I would have to agree with this. The purpose of the rally was to complain about the performance of the current government and a call for early elections. People around the world want good government (ex- Egypt) but they don’t want ideals, or platitudes, which most politicians give.What they want are the basics like tax money being spent well, roads without pot holes, decent schools, clean hospitals, a dignified retirement for senior citizens, job opportunities, feel secure in their neighborhood, etc.  I don’t see Nikolic (the Progressive Party leader) and others in his party being able to do this. They don’t see smart enough, or empathetic enough to manage an economy and a nation.

But instead of just criticizing them, I will give my ideas on how Serbia should be run. I see a nation with great potential, but it is being wasted, as young people who are innovative and ready to make their mark in the world, being disillusioned because the economy is horrible. I haven’t given it enough thought, but if I were president of Serbia, I would have the following platform:

1) Foreign Policy

  • I would eliminate the military. It is a big expense for the Serbian government. This would free up the large amount of military land for the good of the public. This could be used for parks, schools, green housing projects, hospitals, etc. There should also be money to train ex-soldiers for civilian life. The ending of the military would also say a lot to our neighbors and the world that Serbia is past violence and open for tourism and business investment.
  • The end of the military would also mean the end of military service. I would make a Peace Corps for the Balkans and send young people for 1-year missions around the ex-Yugoslavia and the poorer parts of Serbia. They could be intern teachers, nurses, security guards, construction workers, engineers, etc.
  • Invite Montenegro and Republika Srpska (the Serbian part of Bosnia) to join Serbia. I would also negotiate with Kosovo and get the northern part to join Serbia.  The majority Kosovar Albanians will never want to stay in Serbia. With a recognized government, Serbians will eventually be able visit whenever they want anyway. The dream of multi ethnic societies should be dropped for now.

2) Domestic Stuff

  • Ban the Serbian Latinica alphabet. The Cyrillic script looks cool and this is a part of Serbian culture that should be protected and promoted.
  • Eliminate the antiquated and Byzantine (appropriate for this place) laws on the books that make it impossible to do business. The amount of paper work for building permits, starting and ending businesses, hiring and firing workers, etc. is a huge impediment for companies. Belgrade is a natural business hub for the Balkans and with a business-friendly environment, it would entice more companies to move in and we would see more start-ups.
  • Fight corruption and organized crime. These elements hurt society in the long-term.
  • Collect income tax from everyone, including the rich.
  • Pump huge amounts of money into schools and build a cutting edge, “green” curriculum that targets entrepreneurship, technology, and problem solving. (you can tell I am a teacher)
  • Clean up graffiti and garbage around the city. Help neighborhoods to form cooperatives to beautify their apartment buildings and parks. Give matching grants to apartment associations for renovating of their buildings.
  • Continue moving towards Europe because this would give young Serbs the opportunity to work in other countries in the EU as well as Serbian companies possibly expanding their markets.
  • Adapt the ex-Yugoslavian slogan of  “Unity and Brotherhood” to “Tolerance and Pursuit of Happiness.”

Those are my initial, undeveloped thoughts. If any bilingual Serbian wants to be my running mate, I would like to run for President. I don’t speak Serbian well and that would probably hurt me in government.

Latest Reading: “Treasure Islands: Tax Havens and the Men Who Stole the World” by Nicholas Shaxson

Nicholas Shaxson is an English economics writer for The Financial Times and The Economist. This book is an excellent introduction to tax havens. He defines tax havens by ”places that seek to attract business by offering politically stable facilities to help people or entities get around the rules, laws, and regulations of jurisdictions elsewhere.” I was aware of these places due to my expatriate lifestyle, as many expats have bank accounts or do business in these types of places. I wasn’t aware of the magnitude of the money found in these tax havens. Shaxson argues that these tax havens were a big cause of the global economic meltdown recently and that they do much damage to countries that are missing out on tax revenue. The book is an excellent introduction to this world, and he is a good storyteller and it is an easy read, not very much financial jargon. I enjoyed the book and recommend it to others who want to know more about this.

As I am typing this book review, I am following the Australian Open Tennis Championship, and I notice how many of the players live in Monaco or Monte Carlo, two tax havens! All three of Serbia’s superstars, Novak Djokovic, Jelena Jankovic, and Ana Ivanovic, live abroad. Imagine how much tax money Serbia is being deprived by these people living outside the country. I also think many high income earners avoid taxes this way. Shaxson describes how the system began historically and how they spread and maintain themselves.

Tax havens offer secrecy, very low or zero taxes, and have a financial service industry that is very large compared to the size of the size of the local economy. I learned that the world contains about sixty secrecy jurisdictions.

The most important is of all places, London. I thought that with the British organization, that this would be the last place where people to hide money from tax authorities, but “The City of London” is private organization within the municipality of London, that is outside of the government laws, not only city, but on par with the British Monarch and Prime Minister. This is historical, and Shaxson devotes an entire chapter to looking at it.

It was his impression that the latest global economic crisis, was caused in a large part, by these financial service companies and investment banks, operating unregulated in these havens. This offshore system is huge, with expert estimates stating that about half of all banking assets, and  a third of foreign investment is found in these havens.

Other European places that are tax havens are the Serbian tennis professional enclave of Monaco, the Netherlands, Luxembourg, Jersey Island, and, the traditional Switzerland. Shaxson debunks the myth that the Swiss bank secrecy began with the Nazis. It started before them, and it came about because Swiss farmers, and the traditional of independence of the isolated, mountain valleys in the country. They keep the country together by having autonomous regions.

Some other places in the world are the Cayman Islands, Bahamas, Hong Kong, (outgrowth of the British Empire and the City of London), and the USA is not exempt, with Florida, the Virgin Islands, etc. Shaxson also points out that much illegal (drugs, arms sales, dictator theft) ends up in accounts in these areas. Also, many multinational corporations, like petroleum companies, use these to avoid taxes.

I can see why rich people and companies do not want to pay taxes and how they justify them. I am sure Novak Djokovic is saying that the Serbian government is corrupt and his money would not be used well. He also gives back much to Serbia through promoting the country, winning the Davis Cup, charity, etc. The author however, is dead set against this and he does have many valid points. He points out how the British media loves Virgin’s Richard Branson, who nonetheless, is a major tax-dodger. It is the “little guy” who can’t get out of paying the bulk of taxes. In the last chapter, he gives a list of reforms that would track down this money distribute it to various nation’s governments.

Last week I met gentleman who worked for the German tax authorities. It was his job to work in London, tracking down Germans that owe taxes. It was funny in the book that the rich Russians refer to it as “Londongrad.” I would have to agree with Shaxson, in that this lost revenue could help countries. The book also got me to think about my retirement accounts and savings. Where do I want to put them…

I recommend the book to anyone who wants to learn more about this topic and it is also good for expatriates to read.

 

Latest Reading: Three Cups of Tea – One Man’s Mission To Promote Peace…One School at a Time

I finally got around to reading Greg Mortenson’s book about his work in Pakistan. The book was on the New York Times Bestseller’s list for a long time. I won’t give a summary of the book but a few of my impressions. It was a good time to read the book to coincide with my trip to the Middle East. Mortenson is an “global nomad” having grown up in Tanzania and it shows in his ability to easily adapt to a foreign culture. He is being touted by the US media as the foremost authority of life in Pakistan and Afghanistan and the US military commanders are consulting with him. Is it that hard to take time to learn the language and customs of a country. He dives right into the culture of the Kashmir / Himalaya region by learning Pashtun, wearing the traditional costumes and figuring out the power hierarchy in the villages where he is trying to build schools. I think his global background gave him the mind set to do this very quickly, having grown up in a culture different to his own parents.

My Father-in-Law Buys Dates in a Market in Manama, Bahrain (December 2010)

I just don’t understand why the US foreign service and military doesn’t have an army of Greg Mortensons. It should be mandatory to use long-time in-country expats to understand how the US government form its policies and relationships with other nations. The US should be putting more effort and resources into developing people like him. I feel strongly about maintaining a strong military, but the US should put more into money into programs like Mortenson’s, like building schools in areas that need them. I feel sorry for those kids in the US Armed Forces that have never left the US, being thrown into situations where they need to interact with local civilians. We are going about it all wrong.

My visit to Bahrain the past two weeks has changed my perspective to the Middle East. I know that Bahrain is only a small part of the region, and is known for its tolerance, but this is a region that we can do much more to help, other than military intervention. They Muslims are ordinary people with normal hopes, dreams, fears, emotions, etc. Greg Mortenson has found this out, why don’t more Americans do so also?

 

Time of the Gypsies

The Cast Receives Applause (Kusturica in the center)

Last night I got the chance to see Bosnian Serb film director, Emir Kusturica’s “punk opera” Time of the Gypsies.” The opera is based on his 1988 movie by the same name. It is a story about the Roma community and follows the lives of two gypsy orphans living with their grandmother in the ex-Yugoslavia and a criminal gypsy living in Italy. It was a very good movie and I really enjoyed the show last night. I am glad I watched most of the movie before attending the show so I could follow along with what was happening. The libretto was in a Roma dialect with Serbian subtitles. My Serbian is at the point where I can recognize 2-3 words per sentence and can kind of put ideas together.

I liked the music. It was a combination of classical music, gypsy folk music, and rock – all live music with the musicians down in the pit. The scenery and props were visually stimulating – a great night out. I would like to thank LJ for the tickets!!!!

The Final Scene - With the Milan Cathedral in the Background

You can read the New York Times review of the opera. I got a bit burned out on magic realism while living in Latin America, but it is a good story nonetheless. The Roma are fascinating to me and the movie gives a bit of insight into their world. Kusturica is a very interesting fellow and I highly recommend seeing the opera or any of his movies if you get the chance. It was a full house at the “communist science fiction” styled Sava Centar, and this was the fifth night of the performance.

Visit to the Dali Exhibition

Europe turned the clocks back one hour on Saturday evening – 1 week ahead of the US turning the clocks back. We took advantage of the extra hour and visited the Salvador Dali exhibition at the Yugoslavian History Museum near our home.

I had heard of Dali and knew of his surrealism painting style, his big moustache, and flamboyant lifestyle. The exhibition focused on his commissioned works by the Italian government to commemorate the 700th anniversary of Dante’s “The Divine Comedy”. The exhibition also featured a series of illustrations of Biblical themes he did in the 60’s. One of his Italian friends was trying to get him back to the Catholic church. It was a good opportunity for me to explain some of the Bible stories to Owen and Oliver. It made me think about the Catalan artist in a different light.

"The Tower of Babel"

Jewish New Year Concert

Budapest Klezmer Band, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Last night we went to the first concert of the Belgrade Philharmonic season. We bought a ticket package themed “New Year Celebrations” and the first in the series celebrated the Jewish New Year, which was this week. The evening program featured Jewish composers.

In the second half of the concert, the Budapest Klezmer Band from Hungary. Klezmer is a traditional music form of the Eastern European Jews. Klezmer is quite lively, featuring the accordion, clarinet, violin, trombone, bass, and drums. Think of the dance tunes of Fiddler on the Roof. I really enjoyed the music and it was a welcome change from the seriousness of symphonic music. Many of the audience were still the normal somber, hushing tones of a classical music patron, but the musicians were asking for people to clap, and by the end, the infectious music had everyone in a good mood.

Sadly, not much is known about the original klezmer music due to the genocide of European Jews last century. It was brought back by the Yiddish immigrants to America and it survives today. It would be great to have a live band at a wedding or party. Give a listen to the short clip above. Having so many cultural opportunities is one of the nice things of being posted in Europe.

Latest Reading: “Out of Captivity: Surviving 1,967 Days in the Colombian Jungle”

The book tells the stories of three Americans who were kidnapped by Marxist Guerrillas in the Colombian jungles for over 5 years. The three men were private contractors, monitoring the cocaine production by flying over southern Colombia. On one of their flights, they had to emergency land their plane and were quickly taken hostage by the FARC (Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia) the biggest insurgent army in Colombia. They were eventually rescued in a clever plot by the Colombian army.

Their Plane Lands in Bogota

The book has special meaning to me as I lived in Colombia for five years and know the country well. I even had a brush with the FARC when travelling through the Darien Gap which I’ll tell about someday in my memoirs. It read like a prison novel, describing their routines and adventures in captivity. It is sad that over 2000 ordinary Colombians are still being held by the FARC. The toll on the families must be devastating. Two of the three Americans’ marriages broke up over their long captivity.

I have experienced the huge inequalities in Colombian society and understand why groups like FARC exist. The upper class really needs to consider the majority of the population and give all Colombians decent lives. The country has made great progress in the past 10 years and I hope that they continue to grow economically. It could be a rich culture and with the many natural resources, it could become a real tourist destination.

The treatment the Americans and other hostages received was horrendous. I felt sorry for both them and the poor ignorant soldiers guarding them.