Running Trail in Košutnjak Park

 

We have been taking advantage of the warm summer nights this week and trying to get out and do things outdoors. Owen is into distance running. After watching the events in the Olympics and watching Nadia and I run all the time, I guess it was inevitable. He is training for an 800 meter run at school.

There is a nice 1.2 kilometer running trail in the Košutnjak Park.  The trail is dirt/wood chips and lined with wooden beams. This park is the huge, former hunting grounds of the King, and is located just on the next ridge from Dedinje. The trail is marked ever 100 meters and they even have a 12 minute run test chart to see how your fitness rates.

Besides the running track, there are tennis courts, volleyball, basketball, even a group was playing team handball on a specially marked court just for team handball. There were lots of people doing sport and exercising. The Serbs love sport!

Ocean Posing In the Park

One of the nicest things about Belgrade is the idea of the “third place.” The third place is defined as the place that is not your home and not your work. In Belgrade, most people live in small apartments and so the public places (third places) are vibrant and full of activity and people. It is a refreshing change from the USA, where people have such nice homes that they don’t go out and mingle. With big back yards, lots of tech gadgets, Americans generally spend more time at home. There is always something going on in Belgrade and the Košutnjak Park is a nice example. It is a great spot for families and I have some of my training running routes through the more remote sections.

We have to do the fitness test soon!

Owen Plays in the Belgrade Trophy Tourney

 

Owen, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

We played yesterday in the Tenth Belgrade Trophy Little League Baseball championship held at Ada Baseball Field. My friend Brian and I are coaching our sons and other international school students this summer. We got a team together to play some exhibition games in the tourney.

We played “The Alligators,” Novi Sad, and Bešereck, finishing with 1 win and 2 losses on the day. Owen made a couple of nice plays at first base and had a several hits, including a 2-RBI double to seal a victory against Bešereck.

I would like to thank Nikola Vučević, the organizer of the tourney and head of the Serbian Baseball Association for inviting us to play! He went out of his way to give our kids opportunities to play on the beautiful field and have some real games. Owen and his friends were so excited to wear uniforms (the old ISB MS volleyball uniforms) and compete. The day was funded by the city of Belgrade.

Despite the heat, it was a wonderful day. The first game we used a pitching machine against a much older team, and we soon found out we needed to switch to coaches pitching. In the second game we played against a team closer to our age, and in the third game, we played against a very good older club. Owen thought the highlight was Cody’s inside the park grand slam.

Owen’s first at bat!

With temperatures over 100F, after the game we cooled off in the river and had a nice BBQ meal at one of the restaurants at Ada.

We hope to play some more games before the cold weather sets in.

Great End To the Day

Ocean, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Last night after work, my daughter Ocean and I went to the Lido Beach on Great War Island. The island is in the middle of the Sava River, just upstream from Ada Ciganlija, near the Belgrade suburb of Zemun. During the summer months, the Serbian army erects a portable, pontoon bridge so people can cross and swim on the beach on the north tip of the island. During the other months, the small island is a Serbian military base and nature reserve for birds. It is called, Veliki Ratno Ostrva (Great War Island) because it was a strategic military point for the conquest or defense of Belgrade.

It is very shallow and no white sand, turquoise water of the Adriatic, but it does have a cool vibe and with temperatures over 100F, it was just as good as any Caribbean beach.

After a busy day at school with multiple meetings and the suffocating heat wave w are experiencing, it was nice to go to the beach, cool off, and just hang out with Ocean. She didn’t like the shells and rocky bits, but after awhile, got used to it. We bought some popcorn and then headed home. It was a brief respite from the busy school and family life I have.

First Day of School

 

Oliver Grade 2, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Oliver is posing in the classic “Kralovec” family first day of school photo. My parents used to take a photo of us every year in front of our door my home with us leaning against the wall.

It was an historic day for our family as it was the first time all five of us went to the same school. My daughter Ocean was finally old enough to attend ISB and started Pre-Kindergarten today. The kids were all excited and Nadia and I were excited to get them all ready and out the door on time.

No matter how many years I am in education, the first day of school always holds a bit of nerves and excitement. It was a great day today.

Timisoara, Romania – A Great Shopping Destination

Claudiu and Bill at the Timisoara Mall

Last weekend we went across the border to Timisoara, Romania to do some school shopping. It is only about a 1 and 1/2 hour or 2 hour drive away and has much better shopping than Belgrade. They have more products and many more deals. We went to the big Ilius Mall and we found many clothes for the kids and I also bought some work pants and shirts. I even found Moleskin® notebooks at a really cool book store. I think we liked the shopping so much because we dropped the kids off at the playland in the mall and had a relaxed time. We also did some grocery shopping at the Real supermarket and stocked up on high processed sugary breakfast cereals for the kids. The city is the fourth-largest city Romania with a population around 300,000 people. The 1989 revolution against the communist regime started in the city and it has more of an Austrian-Hungarian feel than the rest of Romania.

I strongly recommend Timisoara for Belgraders looking for a weekend get-away. Besides the shopping, we made a stop at the Banat Village Museum. The “Banat” is the region covering eastern Romania, western Hungary and northern Serbia. The museum is located in a park setting with examples of old homesteads from the different ethnic groups and time periods. It is nothing flashy, but is a nice spot for kids to run around. They had a great little pond, where the kids threw rocks and chased dragonflies.

Hanging out at the pond at the Banat Village Museum in Timisoara

Weekend In Mallorca

We spent the weekend exploring the remote beaches on the north coast of the island. We found the perfect wave beach for the kids near Alcudia. It was their first time in waves and they absolutely loved it. The waves were a perfect size for kids and the beach had a sandy bottom. It was a wind surf and parasail area with probably 50 people practicing the sport on the long beach. We then drove out to the end of the Cap de Formentor and soaked in the spectacular views of limestone cliffs, deep blue sea and green hillsides. The protected areas on the north coast are absolutely beautiful and I hope they can keep them wild.

On Sunday we visited Cala Torta. It was a windy day and the beach was closed to swimming when we arrived. The waves were immense. We hiked along the ridges, and when the lifeguard left, we got into the water a bit. The waves were so high, that I didn’t dare let the kids go out past their knees. We had a lot of laughs as the immense waves crashed on the beach and knocked us off our feet.

 

The kids are really improving their swimming. We have a pool next to the apartments where the kids could spend literally all day in. Owen learned to dive and Ollie can now jump into the deep part and swim to the side. Ocean can also jump in the deep end, but is a bit more cautious and only does it right next to the side. She does a front flip underwater.

The Son Caliu suburb of Palma where we are staying, has a lot of running/bike paths. As I wrote earlier, I am very impressed with the infrastructure of Mallorca.

I read an article yesterday in the Diaro de Mallorca (Mallorcan Daily) that discussed the economy of the island. In 2001 the Balearic Islands (Mallorca, Menorca, Ibiza) had 526 hotels that stayed open during the winter months (November to Easter) with an occupancy rate of around 50%. Last winter, 2011-2012, the number of hotels that were open year round had dropped to 126 with an occupancy rate of 32%. They are expecting even lower numbers for 2012-2013. This of course is not good for the islands as people have to make due on 7-8 months of salary. The reason less tourists are coming to the islands are the rising costs and competition from warmer places. Before switching from the peseta to the euro, it was cheaper for Germans and Brits to spend 15 days in Mallorca than in their home countries. Today, it is just as expensive. Also, places like Egypt, Tunisia, etc. are now less expensive than Spain. There was a another article with complaints from the golf industry, that the government is raising the IVA (sales tax) from 8 to 20% on a round of golf. In Europe, these government sales taxes of above 15% are ridiculous. I used to think the Canadian 13% was excessive (to give some perspective, in my home state of Michigan, the sales tax was raised from 4 to 6%) before I moved to Europe.

Spain fell into the same trap as the US did regarding the economic crisis. Many people thought they could become rich quickly through investing in real estate and many got in over their heads. The banks made bad loans and now Spain is receiving bailouts from the IMF and the Central Bank. I have noticed less people in downtown Mallorca and shops either closed or offering discounts. I think the island is adjusting to the lower number of tourists and there will be hotels and shops that go out of business.

Family Journal: Bike Riding With the Boys

Oliver, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

There are moments that you wish could last forever. The past few days I’ve been taking out Owen and Oliver for bike rides. At first they were complaining, but yesterday they asked me to take them out and we had a lot of fun. Belgrade has kilometers of bike paths around the city, either along the river, in New Belgrade, or in several forested parks. I would like to see even more, but compared to other international places I have lived, we are blessed to have so many kilometers to safely ride. The city could even put up more bike paths as evidenced by the many people riding.

Oliver is shown above at Ada Ciganlija after we took a swim to cool off from the ride. I would love to re-live these bike rides- as the kids are growing up fast and these opportunities will be fleeting as they get older.

We also spent the week improving our tennis games with coach Mili. He is teaching us the Split Method for forehands and backhands. I can’t recommend him enough and I’ll be blogging about it later. Below is a photo of Owen working with him yesterday.

Zemun Quay

Dinner Along the Danube, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

We went out to eat last night at the restaurant Šaran on the Zemun Quay. It was such a pleasant experience, I had to blog about it.

Zemun used to a separate city from Belgrade, but is now one of the 17 municipalities of Belgrade. It has a slightly different feel (architecture) than Belgrade, being under the Austrian-Hungarian Empire influence for a long time.

Zemun was founded on the banks of the Danube River, on three hills. There is a nice riverfront area of restaurants, that with a few modifications, could be made even nicer, and perhaps another attraction like Kalamegdan or St. Sava’s Church.

There are quaintly, slightly decrepit buildings, small fisherman’s boats, cobblestones, trees, and breeze coming off the river, with the view of a green opposite bank. One feels like it could be a Greek island waterfront, or a neighborhood of Venice. There were old men sitting on tables in front of dimly lit cafes, having a drink and some laughs. The restaurants in the summer have temporary dining areas along the river, outside of their main buildings. Many have live music. Besides diners and cafe-goers, there were families going for a walk along the quay, fishermen coming back from a day on the river, etc. It is perhaps a bit like San Francisco’s Fishermen’s Wharf before it became a tourist trap.

They can improve the area by stopping cars from entering the cobblestone street along side the quay. There are several areas nearby that could be developed as parking areas. We saw they were improving the walking paths along the quay and this would also help, especially if they can figure out a walking path up to the Gardoš Tower, which is a short two blocks from the river. There are also potential green areas further up the river bank that could be included in the quay area. Further down river there is the Grand Casino, more riverside parks, Great War Islands, with Lido Beach, and many great “splavs” – restaurants and night clubs on stillts on the river – also close by and with some creative development, could be connected to the Zemun Quay. It could be a good alternative to the downtown Bohemian Restaurant district of Skadarlija.

The food was good at Šaran and we had the best waiter I’ve encountered in Belgrade, Some of the dishes were a bit over-salted for our taste, but overall a fantastic meal.

Beating The Heat

 

Since we got back from Greece earlier this month, Serbia has had very hot weather. Everyday it has been in the high 80’s and 90’s (F) topping 100 F on several occasions. There also has been a lack of rain and lawns not watered are yellow and the clay soils of Serbia are cracking.

We’ve been finding ways to cool off each day and these include swimming at Ada (above) or going to pools and eating plenty of ice cream.

We are trying to do all of the traditional summer activities like swimming, eating watermelon, playing baseball, etc. The family is enjoying time together and we are all looking forward to our next adventure of a couple of weeks in Mallorca, Spain.

The kids at the Kosutnjak Pool

Apricots – Kajsija

 

Another of Belgrade’s summer pleasures are apricots. Nadia is shown with several I picked from a tree in our yard. We’ve been eating a lot of them and Nadia made the best jam preserve with 12 kilos I bought from the Senjak market.

Apricots have been around a long time so the origin of the tree is a bit unclear. The scientific name (Prunus armeniaca) indicates they originated in Armenia, but there are experts who theorize India, and China as well. It is a member of the plum family and the common name, apricot, comes from Pliny The Elder, the Roman naturalist over 2000 years ago.

The apricot is high in antioxidants and fiber, so it is very healthy to eat. It is supposed to reduce bad cholesterol so I try to eat them daily while they are in season.

After my run yesterday, I stuck my head under the hose and looked up and saw the tree. I picked an apricot and it was absolutely delicious. It may have been a runner’s high, but I paused to acknowledge the refreshing taste of the apricot, or the Armenian plum!

In Serbian they are known as kasija, and of course, the Serbs distill an excellent brandy from the fruit, known as kajsijevača.