Kids Enjoying Autumn

 

Ocean Throwing Leaves, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

This will be my last leaf posting. One of the reasons we moved to Serbia was for the kids to enjoy the change of seasons. Ocean and Oliver got “fall” and it was fascinating to see Ocean make the connection. She saw the leaves falling and accumulating in the yard. She said this must be autumn and she also gave me the word in Spanish (otono) and in Serbian (jesen). They must have been discussing it at school. The best thing about this video is the infectious laugh of Ocean. She is a fun-loving girl and she got a big kick out of throwing leaves at me.

Slatko: A Serbian Delicacy

My son Oliver is trying a peach slatko last weekend at the restaurant Stari Majdan. Slatko is an interesting traditional Serbian fruit preserve. It is like a jam but with chunky pieces of fruit and it is served with water. It is very sweet and immediately afterward, one needs a sip of water. I guess that is why it is named slatko which means “sweet” in English.

It used to be served to guests when they arrived in a Serbian home. Today, it is only found in rural areas in Serbia or occasionally in green markets in the city. Nadia absolutely loves it and we usually have a jar in the kitchen. I’ve seen that strawberries and figs are the most common types. My friend mentioned a watermelon (lubenica) slatko that I would like to try.

Update – July 9, 2012 – I read an article in the Spring 2012 edition of BelGuest that mentioned slatko comes from the Sephardic Jewish community of Belgrade before World War II. The Spanish (Ladino) word for the desert is dulse and the Serbs adapted it from their interaction with the large (22,000) Jewish community in the city.

Annual School Pictures (School Photo Day)

 


This week we received the official school pictures of the boys. Above is Oliver’s first grade picture and below is Owen’s third grade picture.

As you can see by comparing how they looked in 2008, their first school pictures I posted on the blog, they are growing up. We will be getting Ocean’s first school picture later this month.

Owen Kralovec - Third Grade

Autumn Colors of Belgrade

 

Autumn Colors, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

We are in the peak color season in Belgrade. In Europe, as opposed to my birthplace of Michigan, the colors are mostly yellow. The theory goes that there are more tree species in North America that gives more colors and the ice age killed more of red-producing pigment trees in Europe than in North America. Despite not having the reds and oranges, it is still a beautiful time of year. Above is a photo of a wall at our school.

It was great this morning. I was walking with Ocean to our car and she said, “it is leaf day today.” There were leaves literally falling all over the drive way. It has been great to experience the change of seasons, especially for the kids.

It has also been foggy this week in the mornings. Below is a photo of our yard yesterday morning.

Weekend Journal: Halloween

 



The kids are shown above in their Halloween costumes. Owen and Oliver wanted the skeleton outfits from the Chinese Market and Ocean went both as a Princess and Hello Kitty. I think the boys loved the plastic battle axes that came with the costume.

It was a full weekend of parties. It started with the school’s party with spooky carnival games and trick or treating through the rooms. We then went to the US Embassy Halloween party which included going door-to-door trick or treating and a nice party at the end of the evening. The kids loved going through the neighborhood, which is owned by DIPOS, the Diplomatic Housing Enterprise that rents to US Embassy personnel.

The weather has been spectacular with sunny skies and relatively warm temperatures. We raked leaves and jumped in the pile. We also had a camp fire and played a lot of sports outside.

 

Draža Mihailović – A Serbian Hero

I saw this well done mural on an old building near the Sava River on a bike ride home from Ada Ciganlija earlier this week. The caption reads as follows:
Živ je Draža – umro nije – dok je sprstva i Srbije!
As long as there is Serbia and the Serbian Spirit – Draža lives!
It pictures Serbian military hero Draža Mihailović. Mihailović fought in four wars in his lifetime. He was a young man in the two Balkan Wars and World War I. Especially in World War I, when there was the very real possibility of the loss of the Serbian nation, he fought on the front lines from Corfu, through Albania and back to Belgrade. He is most remembered for World War II, but I feel he shouldn’t be. He was almost 50 when the Nazis invaded in 1941. He fled the Yugoslav army and led the resistance group called the Chetniks. They differed from the more famous Partizans in that they were mostly ethnic Serbian, loosely supported the Yugoslav King in exile, and avoided direct confrontation with the Germans. Draža believed the German reprisals against Serbian civilians were not worth the minor gains in guerilla attacks. I agree with this and he was waiting for the Allies to eventually come and take out the Nazis.
Unfortunately for him, the Partizans won control of the country after the war and Tito had him put on trial and executed. One research study suggests his body is buried close to the mural, on the entrance of Ada Ciganlija. Mihailović and several of his commanders were dumped in a mass grave in a secret site.
He was used as a source of inspiration by Serbian military groups, both formal and informal in the wars of the Secession of Yugoslavia in the 1990s. This has made him unjustly, a controversial figure even today. It is similar to the World War I battle hymn, March on the Drina , which should be the Serbian national anthem, but due to its use in the wars of the 1990s also, is considered too controversial.
Mihailović’s final words were  “I wanted much; I began much; but the gale of the world carried away me and my work.”
He lived a hard life to have it disrupted so violently with four major wars. He deserved a better fate than to be executed by the communists. He should be rightly honored for his resistance against outside major powers trying to take over smaller Serbia. Perhaps his ideas of a looser federation of Yugoslavia with stronger autonomy for the ethnic republics would have resulted in a longer existing Yugsolavia.
On a lighter note, he should be depicted on t-shirts more than Che Guevara, the Argentinian bum turned Cuban Revolutionary hero. The beard, glasses, and Šajkača are a very “cool” look for Draža. I’ll look to see if I can find his image on a t-shirt or make my own.

Košava Winds

 

Đerdap National Park, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

The past two days here in the Belgrade the famous Košava winds have been blowing through the city. The winds are caused by a air pressure gradient between the Adriatic Sea (low air pressure) and southern Russia (high air pressure). Air moves from high pressure to the low pressure. In between Russia and the Adriatic are the beautiful Carpathian Mountains. Above is a photo of the southern Carpathians that form a steep gorge on the Danube River. It is the famous Đerdap National Park, or Iron Gates. It is about an hour’s drive from Belgrade. As the air moves from Russia westward towards the Adriatic, it is funneled through this gorge. On the other side of this gorge is Belgrade.

I can sure feel when the Košava is blowing! It is good that they clean out the city of pollution. They are bad in that they significantly lower the temperature in the non-summer months, especially winter.

When I took this photo in 2009, I was only admiring the beauty of the park. Now I realize that it causes a focus and acceleration of the cold northerly wind known as the Košava.

The locals claim it either blows for 1,3,5 days and they all believe it. It sounds like superstition as it doesn’t make sense for the cause of the winds, massive air pressure systems, to move out of the area in increments of an odd number of days. If a meteorologist can give me some background on this, I would appreciate it.

So far this time, it is the third day as I write this. The Košava is strongest in the morning, so I’ll see if this is the last day it blows.

Yugoslavia’s Alcatraz


Update February 3, 2014 – A list of 16,101 prisoners who were at Goli Otok from 1949-1956 was released on a Croatian website this week. It listed 413 people that died while serving time on the island from 1949 – 1956. 

The death of Momar Ghadafi last week has me thinking of dictators. His 42-year reign did not end well with “rebels” finding him in a storm sewer under a road and beating him and then executing him. This is much different than here in Serbia with the end of their Yugoslavian Dictator, Tito. His 37-year reign ended with a state funeral and honors. Many still regard him as hero, not only for his exploits in World War II, but also for keeping Yugoslavia together and more prosperous than its Warsaw Pact neighbors. Does he qualify as a dictator?

For anyone to keep power that long however you want to look at his time as Prime Minister/President. Tito did have his repressive measures to keep control. During my trip to the Adriatic last week, I read the book, “Goli Otok: Hell in the Adriatic” by Josip Zoretic. Goli Otok is an island off the coast of Croatia that for many years during the Communist period of Yugoslavia was a prison for political dissenters and for ordinary criminals. It is notorious for the harshness of the conditions for prisoners.The book is written by Zoretic, a Croatian born in Slovenija, who served 7 years on the island from 1962-1969. He was sent to “barren island” as it is translated to English for fleeing Yugoslavia. (note- Please help me Serbian readers, I learned that the word for island was “ostrvo”, why “otok?”

Zoretic was captured in Austria and sent back. He writes in the book that he fled the country because he could not find a job. According to him, his father refused to join the Partizan army during the World War II resistance. He also didn’t join the Chetniks, the other resistance group. Zoretic’s father was executed and tossed into an infamous deep cavern called “Jazovka” near the Slovenian and Croatian border. He was one of the lucky ones, because many Croatians taken there by the Partizans were tossed in alive, only to die slowly hundreds of meters below the earth on the remains of the dead. Zoretic didn’t know the full background of the story if his father was a collaborator with the Ustaše or just an ordinary civilian who didn’t want to participate on any side in the conflict. Recall that the Ustase were the Croatian Nazi collaborators in World War II.

Because of his father’s background, Zoretic couldn’t start a career and find jobs or enter training programs in the Partizan-controlled Yugoslavia. Talk about suffering for the sins of your father. He eventually got to leave Yugoslavia after serving out his sentence.  He wrote the book while in exile in Canada and I read where his son is raising money to produce a film based on the book.

The photo above is not the island of Goli Otok, but of Lokrum Island, located just off the coast of Dubrovnik, Croatia. It is a similar island and we visited Dubrovnik last year. It will give the reader a sense of what the place looked like.We didn’t get over to visit the island, which I don’t think is a tourist attraction. It would be good to restore the island. It is not as famous as the American island prison Alcatraz. Unlike Alcatraz, prisoners occasionally escaped but it was dangerous and difficult. I hope they do preserve the island as it has been left to ruin and an important part of history is being forgotten.

The book was an engaging read, as Zoretic described daily life in the prison. I was a bit put off by his “Greater Serbia” conspiracy theory. The Secret Police Chief under Tito at the time was a Serbian named Aleksander Ranković. He was the top Serb in Tito’s regime and was accused by the author of unfairly favoring Serbs when it came to sentencing.The guards were quite sadistic and cruel and I don’t understand how anyone could act that way towards another human being. Zoretic mentioned that some of them after leaving employment on the island were attacked on the mainland because people heard of the conditions on the island.

Goli Otok is a sad chapter in the history of Yugoslavia. It is a reminder to us all that humans can treat each other cruelly and the opression of the Tito-led communist Yugoslavia. I recommend the book anyone interested in learning more about Yugoslavia.

Family Trip to the Istria Peninsula

The family is pictured above on our street in Rovinj, Croatia. We stayed in the old city in the ancient city of Rovinj, on the Adriatic coast of Croatia. It is about a 6 hour drive from Belgrade. The Croatian coast is magnificent and reminds me of my graduate study in Mallorca, Spain. The European Mediterranean has a special feel with the architecture, light, sea, and culture. It is such a relaxing holiday destination.

The kids loved the concept of the walled city. The apartment we rented was once part of the fortifications and our back yard was the Adriatic. We were throwing pieces of bread to the seagulls right out of our window. There is something to be said about walking to the market from the apartment, buying fresh bread and cheese, while a Hemmingway-esque fisherman is having a glass of wine and cigarette at 8:00 AM next to you.

Nadia loved the shopping in the little shops and everywhere you turned, there were postcard views and quaint little corners and streets. Magnificent!!!!!

Enjoying the Tastes of Istria

 

We went to the truffle capital of Istria, the village of Lipave, the hometown of Giancarlo Zigante, who ten years ago discovered the world’s largest truffle. He went on to start a truffle company and we went to the Truffle Festival last weekend. The entire area is now famous for truffles.

Truffles are mushrooms that grow underground on or near the roots of trees. They have a very strong odor and are found with the help of trained dogs. They are also one of the most expensive foods in the world and we wanted to see what the big fuss was all about.

We went to Zigante’s Restaurant try it for ourself. The truffle expert in the restaurant, shown above letting Nadia smell the truffle, was explaining that his trained nose can discern when a truffle is “interesting” and ready to be served. Truffles are kind of like wine, a palette of great adjectives is all you need. He selected a white truffle (shown below) and brought it over to our table. He sliced the truffle into thin pieces over our dishes with a special truffle “slicer.” They are served raw lightly over the dish. The guy said simple dishes are best to eat with truffles so the taste can come out. I had noodles with cheese plate and Nadia had pumpkin ravioli.

What did the truffles taste like? I thought it was like a strong, pungent, taste and smell, kind of cheesy or like garlic. Nadia and I both agreed that it wasn’t worth the cost and we don’t see why this mushroom is so sought after. I wouldn’t have them again.

We did enjoy sampling and buying the local wines that were also at the festival. We bought several bottles of the Istria grape varieties, the Malvazija (white) and Teran (red), and both were very palatable. I would especially recommend the “Ana Antonija Teran 2010, from the Benazic Winery. The prices were great, too. Owen and Oliver loved the glass rinsing machine that we used between sampling the many wines on display.

Nadia with her two little wine helpers