The Day at Silver Lake (Srebrno Jezero)

billkralovec
Sunday we spent the day at Silver Lake. Silver Lake was formed in 1971 when a branch of the Danube was dammed to “protect the Ram marsh from subterranean waters.” It is 14 kilometers long and 300 meters wide. Over the years, people have built vacation homes along the reservoir. A private development company is making a resort with a swimming pool, tennis courts, residences, etc. I like it because it is so close to Belgrade. It is only about an hour drive from the city. It is called Silver Lake because of the sparkles of the water at sunset. It is just south east of Belgrade, and Romania is just across the river. 
We had a great day! We were catching frogs along the banks and kids can spend hours going in and out of the water. The area is not in the big guidebooks (Lonely Planet, Bradt). I found some brochures at the tourist desk at the airport describing tourist spots along the Danube and Silver Lake was featured in the section about the nearby town of Veliko Gradiste. (“big construction site” in Serbian)
Silver Lake is like a cleaner, country version of Ada Ciganlija with much less people.

Book Review of “The Yugo: The Rise and Fall of the Worst Car In History”

billkralovec
early Zastava Yugo 45, originally uploaded by Yugo Driver.

I just finished reading the book by Jason Vuic, who is a history professor in Virginia. With his last name, he probably has Serbia or Croatia in his ethnic background. The book was okay but not fantastic. It might be that I am not a car fanatic and most of the book dealt with the US side of Yugo. The writing was also a bit dry with lots of stats, but not many interviews with the characters brought up in the book. Vuic could have brought them to life a bit more and I wish he would have had more access to them. It was important however, that the story of Yugo America be published. In the 1980’s, I was in the market for a cheap, entry-level car when the Yugo came out, and I remember the time well. My parents ended up buying me a Ford EXP and then a Ford Escort instead of a Yugo.

I did enjoy parts of the book, especially the sections that dealt with the Zastava plant in Serbia. The plant is located in Kragujevac, which is the “Detroit” of Serbia. When the Americans came over and wanted to import the car, they were shocked at the conditions at the factory. It really gave me insight into the Communist Era of Yugoslavia. The car was basically a cheaply made Fiat car produced by a socialist industrial complex. Of course it was going to fail in the US. It was also interesting to read about the Croatian immigrants in the USA and their protests against the car. They viewed it as a symbol of Serbian and Communist dominance of Croatia. I didn’t know that they actually hijacked a plane in the US to protest the lack of Croatian independence before the break up of communism. It was also interesting to read about Lawrence Eagleburger, the former US Ambassador to Yugoslavia. I was also interested in reading a bit more about the Mackinac Bridge accident. A woman drove off the bridge that separates the two peninsulas of Michigan in 1987 while driving a Yugo.

It would be cool for the school to buy a Yugo. I would paint it blue and gold and attach a dragon’s head and tail to it. We could use it for sporting events, picnic days, etc.

Mladic Finally Caught

billkralovec
This is a photo of the Holiday Inn in Sarajevo, Bosnia. In April of 1992, snipers from the top floors of the Holiday Inn started shooting upon marchers in a peace rally. This marked the escalation of violence and the start of the three year siege of Sarajevo. The siege and much of the war in Bosnia was led by the Bosnian Serb General, Ratko Mladic. He was caught this week by police after a long spell as a fugitive from the United Nations sponsored, International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia I took the photo of Holiday Inn while visiting the city in October of 2009.
He had a sort of Bin Laden status here in Serbia. I’ve seen his Most Wanted poster in the airport and other government buildings often. The Tribunal indicted him back in 1995 for his role in war crimes and crimes against humanity in the conflict from 1992 – 1995. Authorities captured him on a raid on his cousin’s home in the village of Lazarevo, a small farming community close to Belgrade. The arrest was huge news in Serbia, and made headlines around the world.
He is most infamous for his role in the massacre at Srebenica.  Around 8,000 civilians were executed in this Bosnian border city, when his troops entered the UN “safe haven.” The PBS/BBC documentary that I linked to above, is an excellent introduction to the event. He was eventually asked to step down from his post, as the war moved into a stalemate. The Bosnian Serbs had overwhelming military force and took up to 70% of Bosnia, but it was reduced to 49% with the Dayton Accords of 1995. Shortly thereafter, the UN Tribunal indicted him, but he lived freely under military protection until Milosevic was ousted in1999. The 16-year time span that he was a “fugitive” is actually only 11, because he went into hiding not until 2000.
I am glad that he will have to go through the trial and the facts of the case will be documented by the court. I would prefer it to occur in Serbia or Bosnia instead of the Hague. It would be better for the Yugoslavians to deal with it, rather than foreigners. I feel it would help in the acknowledgment and speed the reconciliation process.
Why did it take authorities 11 years to finally capture him? I am not sure and I would like to hear from some expert readers. I think one of the big reasons was his failing health and he wanted the free health care that the Hague would provide. At age 69, he looks much different than he did 11 years ago when he went into “retirement.” Reports indicate he may have suffered a stroke and lost mobility in one of his arms. I wish I could read Serbian to get more of the details because it is of course receiving full coverage in the papers.
The reaction here in Belgrade is muted. Most of the Serbs I talk to are either happy that justice will be served and they do not feel sorry for him, or they are tired of hearing about for the past 11 years and are glad that the country can move on. Of course, most of the Belgraders I am acquainted with cosmopolitan and well educated. Mladic’s support comes from the military and poor, rural Serbia where he has been hiding. There was a small group of soccer hooligans downtown this week protesting the arrest. They were chanting “knives, barbed wire, Srebenica” which is a soccer slogan. I need to get some more information on this and I’ll ask around. The mood in Belgrade is much different than when former Bosnian Serb President, Radovan Karadzic was caught in July of 2008. I also think he wanted to spend some time with his family before he dies. He has not been in contact with his wife and son and grandchildren since he went into hiding. They have suffered much. Mladic’s daughter committed suicide in 1994, and it is speculated she could not come to grips with his acts as the “Butcher of Bosnia,” one of his nicknames.
I’ll try to follow some of the trial, but it is so drawn out that it probably won’t start for another year or so. I predict he’ll die before a verdict is reached due to failing health. I am not sure what the implications will be of his capture. Serbia has lots of reform to do before it gets into the European Union. The arrest will help, but they need to clean up the economy, justice system, infrastructure, etc. And with the current state of the EU and it’s currency and immigration issues, I don’t see them expanding in the near future. I feel strongly that Serbia should first try to join “Yugoslavia” before going towards the EU. The Balkans make a natural economic and cultural block that would help the lives of its citizens even more than entry into the EU.

Tennis Warriors

billkralovec

Oliver and Owen played some great games of tennis last weekend. We brought the USTA “Quick Start” Tennis net and balls over to their elementary school. They played several great games. We are watching the highlights of the French Open and I’m getting them excited about tennis.

“The Yugo” An Icon of Yugoslavia

billkralovec

Yugo, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Above is a photo I snapped last weekend while waiting in traffic. The main bridge between New Belgrade and the old city is under repair and has been causing traffic back ups. The “Yugo” or Zastava Koral 55 is an icon of the Former Yugoslavia. They are the source of many jokes both in the US, where they were sold in the 1980’s and here in Serbia.

I love them and hate them. I love them because they are so derided in the media and by people, that it almost makes it cool to drive one. I would love to buy one just to tool around the city in. I would even paint it in our school colors and have it as a “mascot” of the school.

They are an annoyance on the highway however. I wish I had a laser beam in the front of my car that would lift a Yugo in the air so I could ride underneath and then safely place it back down. I think their max speed must be around 60-80 km per hour and I’ve spent many an hour behind them, looking for an opportunity to pass.

The Yugo has a personal connection to me. In my home state of Michigan, the following tragedy occurred:

In 1989, 31-year-old Leslie Ann Pluhar, driving a 1987 Yugo over the Mackinac Bridge in Michigan, died when her Yugo was blown over the bridge’s 36-inch (910 mm) railing by a 50 mph (80 km/h) gust of wind. The incident was widely publicized, with the make of car prominently identified. While Mackinac Bridge Authority’s chief engineer initially thought the car was exceeding the 45 mph (72 km/h) speed limit enforced on the bridge, it was later discovered that Pluhar had panicked when the high winds made driving too difficult and stopped the Yugo on the bridge. The act of stopping the car denied it the downforce generated by forward motion, and along with the car’s light weight, blew the Yugo off the bridge.

I want to read a recent book about the Yugo in America, so expect to see more posts about these cool old cars around Serbia. I asked the guy if he was having car problems or out of gas and he said no. As we got closer to the intersection, he hopped back in and started the car right away. He might have been trying to conserve gasoline, which yesterday was $7.12 per gallon! (ouch!)

Morning Ride to School

billkralovec

Oliver has joined Owen and I on our bicycle ride to school. I asked our nanny to take the photo of us heading out of our apartment yesterday. He was so cute on his first day with us last week! The pride and sense of accomplishment was written all over his face. Ollie still needs a bit more refining, as well does Owen. Most of the ride is through quiet streets or parks, but there are two intersections that are a bit tricky. They are learning how to manage risk, however and develop riding skills that will serve them well throughout their lives. Biking for me is the best form of transport. Belgrade is pretty good for bike riding with many specific biking trails, but they could make more. People drive too fast however, and that is an annoyance and danger for cyclists.

The 1-mile ride to school is one of the best parts of my day. I hope to get Ocean and Nadia also riding to school someday.

Hike in Fruska Gora National Park

billkralovec

Last Sunday the ISB Hiking club went on our first hike of the spring season. We left from the village of Bukovac in the Fruska Gora National Park. This is an area of small hills outside of Novi Sad. Owen is pictured with his friend Ognjen at a cross at Vilina Voda (Nymph’s Spring) where we stopped to fill our water bottles. We were walking through the rolling hill woodlands of the park. They are not huge mountains or anything super impressive, but just really pleasant on a beautiful spring day.You can see my Serbian nature blog for some of the wild flowers and animals we photographed.

I was surprised on how much the boys remember from our previous hikes and camping experiences. The fresh air, tall trees, and green life really refreshes my soul. It reinforced my goal of developing an appreciation and longing for wilderness in my children. Below the I showed the boys “wigglers” or larval mosquitos. There were thousands of them in a small pool on the base of a tree. It led to a discussion of DDT and poisons in the environment. They are catching my enthusiasm for identifying plants and animals.

Family Journal: Backyard BBQ

billkralovec

Our landlord put in a new BBQ oven in our back yard. We’ve been spending more time outside since the weather has improved and we’re loving the “mini-šuma” (forest in Serbian) the extra space has given us.

The black worm-shaped objects on the ground are the flowers of the Walnut Tree (Juglans regia). It is a very common tree in Belgrade. In Serbian it is known as the orah and besides collection of the nuts, the Serbs make a nice rakija (distilled spirit) with them. It is one of my favorites, along with the honey spirit.

We hope to use the BBQ although I am not that big of a “griller.” I still consider it cooking, even though in popular culture men brag about their BBQ skills. I think women encourage it because they like to see the men cook! I do have pyromaniac tendencies however, and do enjoy the fire aspect of it. I’ll try to get better this spring just because I like being outside more than in the house.

I’ve finished quite a few books lately but have not had time to blog about them. My most recent was “Blood River: A Journey to the Broken Heart of Africa” by Tim Butcher. He is an English journalist who tries to retrace the steps of the famous British explorer, Henry Stanley of “Dr. Livingstone, I presume” fame, and his mapping of the Congo River. It was an interesting book as he mixed Congo history and culture with his travels through the country. Butcher does not give a nice picture of the country. Since the Belgians left in the 1950’s, it has deteriorated to the point of going back to the stone age. Where there were roads, industry, and hotel resorts, there are no foot paths, thatch huts, and misery. It made me sad and angry that in these modern times, there are societies that live like this. Butcher gave the impression, especially in the rural areas, of being the most dangerous and backwards country in the world.

I’ve been extremely busy at work with the end of the school year rush. There is so much going on and with a construction project on our campus, it just complicates things even more. I hope to maintain my balance of family and work and health during the run up to June 21rst.

Great Night Out!

billkralovec

We had a rare evening out this past Monday in Belgrade. We had tickets to the Shakira concert at the Belgrade Arena, so we decided to go out to dinner first after work.

I finally got to enjoy one of the “splavs” in Zemun. These are the floating restaurants, bars, and cafes that are moored along the banks of the Danube in the suburb of Zemun. It was quite peaceful and elegant to be having a dinner and drinks with the Danube slowly flowing by. We ate at Žabar’s, which is a nickname for Italians here in Serbia as well as žaba which means frog. My buddy Claudiu and I had the fish while Nadia and Vesna had the turkey. Excellent meal and cool atmosphere – I highly recommend it. We are pictured out front of the restaurant and you can see the river in the background. You can go to my flickr.com account for more photos. I definitely be back to the splavs again, as there are many in Belgrade.

Shakira Performs at the Belgrade Arena

The concert was pretty good. I am surprised at the appeal to a wide range of ages Shakira has. Her costumes and dancing were quite racy. I have a special bond with Shakira because I lived in her hometown of Barranquilla, Colombia when I first started teaching overseas. She didn’t play any of her old stuff, but she did sing the words, “Barranquilla” during one of her songs, but I don’t think many in the audience caught it. I was pumped to here the World Cup song, “Waka waka hey hey – This time it is for Africa” and I’ll post the video a bit later. I wouldn’t go see her again. I think she was lip-synching some of the songs and I got bored of watching her belly dance. Maybe I’m getting old…

My Neighborhood: The Presidential Residence in Dedinje

billkralovec
Presidential Motorcade, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Our little street in Dedinje serves as one of the entry/exits for the President of Serbia. The official residence is just down the block from our apartment and has several entrance routes. One of them is also our street and as you can see from above, secret service guys in black Mercedes occasionally come through with the President.
The residence is not like the White House in the US, where it is also an office and tourist attraction. The President works downtown near Parliament. The home is set back from the street quite away and with the high walls and trees it is difficult to see from the road. It is not the same Presidential residence that was used in the 90’s by Milosevic, which I blogged about earlier.
It is not like having Barak Obama living down the street. Serbia is a much smaller country than the US and people are generally not awed by the celebrity of the office. It is a bit annoying because of my children use the street for riding their bikes and skateboards. The motorcade sometimes comes out of there quite quickly, like they are on an emergency escape.