Latest Reading – Sarajevo

While I was in Sarajevo last month I picked up a couple of books about the wars of Yugoslav Secession of the 1990’s. I wanted to try to understand the conflict a bit more, especially the long siege on the city. The first book I read was “Sarajevo: Exodus of a City” by Bosnian author and professor, Dzevad Karahasn. He wrote the book during the seige in 1992-93, shortly before finally fleeing Bosnia. It is a short book, but it gives the reader an idea on what it is like to live in a city in the middle of a war.

The most disturbing thing about the wars of the 90’s in this region, was the fact that so many civilians were right in the center of the violence. I can’t believe that people survived that experience, when there was danger just in going out of your apartment. Karahasan’s essays bring out different aspects of life under the siege as well as a lot about the history and culture of Sarajevo. He sadly described how the city was torn about and a once multicultural city, is now changed. I noticed in driving around the city that there were clearly Bosniak (Islamic) sections and other new areas that were clearly Serbian. He also wrote about how all of the Jewish people also left during the war and today, there is not a viable Jewish community in the city. I do think that he exagerrates the diversity of pre-war Sarajevo a bit. Most US cities have more diversity than Sarajevo ever did. I don’t see the country of Bosnia staying together because of the split between Serbs and Bosniaks.

The other book was “The Battle for Sarajevo: Sentenced to Victory” by former Bosnian Military Commander, Kerim Lucarevic. The book describes the lead up and the battles of 1992. A couple of salient take-aways I got from the book were as follows:

  • I didn’t realize that the Bosnian Serb army gave weapons to Serb civilians living in the city. Not only was the city attacked from the surrounding hills, but from within.
  • He exaggerates the accomplishments of his soldiers and makes it sound like the “chetniks” were an incompetent army with an overwhelming amount of firepower that was offset by his daring and strategic attacks. I’m sure it was different than what he depicted. I thought he should have been more realistic.
  • It was odd circumstances in the lead up to the siege. The army of the country, Yugoslavia, was digging in around the city. I understand that it was a crazy time and many people thought there wouldn’t be a war, especially with your own (Yugoslavian) army setting up to “protect” the city. I don’t know what I would have done if I was a civilian living in Sarajevo at the time. If I had a family, I would have hoped to get out of there somehow before the fighting began. I can’t believe how many families with children were trapped in the city.

The two books helped me understand the fascinating city of Sarajevo a little better. It is  a sad city but a wonderful place to visit and we hope to go back there again. I do want to read more about the years of the siege and about Bosnia today and the effects from the war.

 

Ocean Facepainting

 

Last night we attended a birthday party for one of Owen’s friends. They had a face painter at the party and Ocean wanted to know what she looked like. She loved the “mariposa’ and had a great time at the party.

Autumn Glory

It was a gorgeous day with sunny skies and a high temperature of 71 F (22 C). Perfect weather conditions and with the low autumn sun, it was just a great day to be outside. We did stay outside the whole day down at my favorite place in Belgrade, Ada Ciganlija. I call it “sport island” because of the plethora of sporting activities. We watched the CEESA Boys’ Soccer Tourney, (ISB came in fourth) and in between non-ISB games, rode bikes and ran about the “lake”. The kids had leave fights and played in the parks.

We met Claudiu, Vesna, Krina, and Dane, our Romanian friends. We ended the day with nice meal at an outdoor restaurant.

One of my big impressions of the day is sporting nature of the Serbs. They are so much more active than Americans! There were thousands of people playing baseball, rugby, soccer, running, roller blading, bicycling, walking, water skiing, etc. They are also generally in much better physical condition.

The warm weather continues today and all this week, although there will be patches of rain. I am enjoying these days in the 70s in November.

School Pictures: 2010-2011

Oliver - Kindergarten Photo

Yesterday we received the boys’ school photos. This ia a tradition that I really like. We see the kids everyday and often do not notice how much they have grown up. Oliver above, looks adorable! He is a such a cute, mischievious little guy, it is impossible to stay angry with him. Oliver has a heart of gold underneath is rambunctious exterior.

Owen's Grade 2 Picture

I carried Owen last night from our bed to his because he fell asleep next to mom. I really noticed how big he is getting and looking at the photo above compared to last year’s photo, he is now a young man.

Both guys are growing up way too fast. We just have to enjoy the limited amount of time we will have with them. I mean limited in the sense that they go on to university and start lives of their own. I guess I am more in tune with that stage of life with my job as a high school principal.

I made mosiacs of the boys’ school photos from previous years. My mother used to put the school photos of me and my two brothers each year on the wall going up the stairs to the second floor of our house. I guess below is the electronic version of this practice.

 

 

We do not have any photos of Ocean yet, as she is not going to school. She just turned three in September.

Kralovec Family Sleeps Through Earthquake

 

Photo Courtesy of United State Geological Survey

 

An earthquake struck last night in Serbia at 2:00 AM. We slept through the earthquake, but most of my friends were woken up by a shaking bed here in Belgrade. It was a moderate (5.3 on the Richter Scale) quake, with the epicenter being about 75 miles southwest of the city. There was a lot of damage in the city of Kraljevo, where 2 people were killed and 50 people injured. They also lost water, electricity and there was much debris in the streets.

I love the two web sites with earthquake information. The world’s finest is the USGS website and the local, The European-Mediterranean Seismological Center, is also good.

Visit to the Dali Exhibition

Europe turned the clocks back one hour on Saturday evening – 1 week ahead of the US turning the clocks back. We took advantage of the extra hour and visited the Salvador Dali exhibition at the Yugoslavian History Museum near our home.

I had heard of Dali and knew of his surrealism painting style, his big moustache, and flamboyant lifestyle. The exhibition focused on his commissioned works by the Italian government to commemorate the 700th anniversary of Dante’s “The Divine Comedy”. The exhibition also featured a series of illustrations of Biblical themes he did in the 60’s. One of his Italian friends was trying to get him back to the Catholic church. It was a good opportunity for me to explain some of the Bible stories to Owen and Oliver. It made me think about the Catalan artist in a different light.

"The Tower of Babel"

Halloween Celebrations 2010

 

We took the kids to two Halloween parties this weekend. The first was Friday evening at the school and then on Sunday, the boys went over to a friend’s house for a party on Halloween day. They were so excited for trick or treating. Ollie said, “I love Halloween!” and Ocean, when she got up on Saturday morning at 6:30 AM, came to me and asked me where the candy was.

Owen went as a ninja, Ollie was on Friday night Sir Lancelot and on Sunday Superman. Ocean went as an angel. All three of our chldren used the angel outfit. The wings were made by a sweet lady in Venezuela who sadly passed away shortly after making the wings. All of our children I consider angels, especially my “angel-princess” Ocean.

I really love living the holidays through the eyes of my children.

Sir Oliver & Ocean in the background

Belgrade Book Fair

 

Ocean & Tata, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

We went to the annual Belgrade Book Fair this afternoon. We love books and reading, and it would have been great to listen to some of the discussions and lectures, but unfortunately, there was way too many people. Too many to the point where we were in fear of losing our children. It says a lot about Belgrade however – it is an intellectual and cultural city besides it reputation for its night life.

We did find a lot of good books for the kids at the Oxford Book Store. They were very reasonably priced, which is rare for anywhere outside the US. I was looking for one of Ian McDonald’s books. The Scottish Science Fiction Writer is in Belgrade this week promoting his Serbian language version of his latest, The Dervish House, which is set in Istanbul. I have never read anything by him. I couldn’t find the English version, so I’ll just get it on my Kindle, although the price for the electronic version is only 3 dollars less than the hardcopy. Note to self for future fairs, go during the week or early in the morning.

We had our first frost this morning (October 30) and it is time to get out the winter clothes. The peak colors for fall were last weekend, as they are dropping rapidly. Welcome November!

Kosovo Nuisance

Earlier this month our school’s website was “hacked” by some kids from Kosovo. We have a very good security system and we quickly cleared it up. This in not the first time they got through. It is a bit funny that they attack the International School’s website. We are all about open-mindedness and our school is trying to instill a global outlook for our Serbian students. I see they are using the Albanian Black Eagle to show their pride. Our IT people know that they are from Kosovo  because they use the same internet provider found in Serbia. Above is a screen shot of their infiltration.

Mali Zvornik

Autumn Harvest Beauty

I had a wonderful weekend with our students and teachers at our first annual autumn retreat. We stayed at the Sunny River (Sunčana Reka) Camp in Mali Zvornik. Mali Zvornik, which means “little bell” in English, is a small town located on the Serbia – Bosnia border, about 2 1/2 hours south west of Belgrade. The resort camp is on the Drina River and it was a very peaceful time, with beautiful sunshine and autumn colors all around. The landscape reminded me of the Appalachians, because of the forested hills.

The town is across the river from its sister city in Bosnia, Zvornik. I didn’t realize how close Zvornik was to the infamous Srebrenica, the scene of the biggest massacre of the Yugsolavian Wars of Secession. A lot of horrible and sick events happened in Zvornik also, but they are not as well known as Srebrenica. The town was once 60% Bosniak Muslim, but they were driven out and it is a majority Serbian town today. If the United Nations sponsored commission reports are accurate, so many bad things occured in the area. I only felt peace however, with quiet walks along the river, nice meals with friends and students, and sports on the grounds of the resort.

Serbia is always full of surprises and Mali Zvornik was no exception. The owner of the resort arranged for the local Serbian Orthodox Priest to show us two underground sites. The first was the Holy Cross Church (Crkva Casnog Krsta)  which is a cross-shaped cave that is an ordained church. There is not electricity in the cave, but they hold mass there the last Friday of every month by candlelight. It fits around 100 people. The second site was more impressive. It was a secret, underground city constructed in the 1930’s for King Alexandar I of Yugoslavia. You can see us above in one of the 78 rooms of the 2 kilometer complex. The city was never completed because of World War II and the Communist Era. Today it is just light bulbs and cement walls. We toured a bit of it. Very impressive however, being that large. It would be a great place for a movie. I hope someday that they find the money to renovate the city how they had envisioned it during King Alexandar’s time. With the state of Serbia’s economy, I don’t see this happening for a while. The underground rooms and hallways can fit between 3,000 and 5,000 people. Very cool.

It would be nice if this area of Serbia and Bosnia could receive more tourists. It is a gorgeous, peaceful place for relaxation. I will definitely take my family back to the resort. For all the former areas of conflict, it will be good for them to develop their economies through tourism. There is lots of potential.