Sava River Bridge

 

Sava River Bridge, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Last night I was running along the Sava and snapped this photo of the stunning bridge at night. The construction continues with the various on and off ramps and they even have a set of stairs for walkers wanting to cross from the river’s edge.

It was a lot of money, but it has made Belgrader’s crossing of the Sava easier and it does provide another “icon” of the city of Belgrade.

Latest Reading: “Iron Curtain: The Crushing of Eastern Europe 1944-1956”

Over the holiday I finished reading Anne Applebaum’s book about the establishment of Soviet control of Eastern Europe. She specifically focuses on East Germany, Poland, and Hungary, and I would have preferred more on Yugoslavia, but they are mentioned. Having lived and traveled extensively throughout the region for the past 5 years, I was really interested in the book. It is quite detailed and some sections are a bit tedious, but mostly it was a fascinating book and answered a bunch of my questions on the communist era. When seeing the communist era buildings here today, I always say “what were they thinking?” This book answers some of that question and more. I highly recommend anyone interested in Eastern Europe to read this book!

I feel sorry for the countries of Eastern Europe and what they went through from World War II until today. The Nazis considered the Slavs to be “subhuman” not much better than Jews, and they suffered from German occupation greatly. They did many inhuman things to the Slavs and other groups of Eastern Europe because of this mindset. Yugoslavia alone lost 10 percent of their population during World War II. The destruction of their society and infrastructure greatly traumatized the people of Eastern Europe,

For Western Europe, post-World War II was a time of healing and rebuilding. My father was stationed in Stuttgart, West Germany as part of the Marshall Plan in the 1950’s and help rebuild the German economy. In contrast, Eastern Europe, instead, was occupied by the Russians and suffered further. War reparations were harsh and much property, both public and private, that the Nazis hadn’t confiscated already, was shipped to USSR.

The Soviets also took over every aspect of these nations’ lives and I can see how hated they could be. Massacres, imprisonment, brainwashing, were some of the tactics the Soviets used to take control of these countries. The book goes into great detail describing the local Quisling leaders, most who were trained at the Comintern, the Russian’s international school of communism. Applebaum also discussed the secret police, including the AVO in Hungary. I want to visit their ex-headquarters in Budapest, 60 Andrassy Street, which I think is now a museum.

The communists used violence to suppress the already traumatized population. Appplebaum has a chapter on the preemptive arrests, where even teen members of groups like the boy scouts, were arrested, tortured, and killed. I also now understand why the Polish plane crash was so emotional a couple of years ago. The murder of the Polish White Army by the Soviets was intense. This coming after years of resistance fighting against the Nazis. The Nazis had planned to destroy Polish civilization and turn the Poles into an illiterate work force. After the Nazis left, the massacres of Poles by the Ukrainians and Russians continued. This also includes the Polish Jews who were basically wiped out. I also didn’t know that the city of Vilnius, and a big part of the country was lost to the Soviets after World War II. With the loss of land, over 1.5 million Poles were displaced. What a sad history of Poland!

I also learned that Winston Churchill coined the phrase “Iron Curtain” in a letter to US President, Harry Truman.

In looking back at the communist era, there were some good things. The community spirit raised by events like the youth festivals are lacking in today’s societies. I also learned from the book that poor and disadvantaged people had an easier time in the communist system raising their standard of living.

However, there were more bad parts of communism. The ruling elite had a life of privilege, the shortages of consumer items, lack of freedoms, repression of culture and religion, etc. not mentioning the repressive violence to keep the system in place, were not worth it.The effects are still being felt today. The education system formed by the communists was based on the writings of Russian theorist, Anton Makarenko, who favored peer pressure, repetition, and indoctrination. The schools are still trying to modernize. The Communists owned everything, so the process of privatizing thousands of companies and sorting out the land titles of private property, are fraught with corruption.

The book ends with a great piece that I will copy here

“…everywhere else int eh post communist and the post-totalitarian world. Before a nation can be rebuilt, its citizens need to understand how it was destroyed in the first place: how its institutions were undermined, how its language was twisted, how its people were manipulated. They need to know particular details, not general theories, and they need to hear individual stories, not generalizations about the masses. They need a better grasp of what motivated their predecessors, to see them as real people and not as black-and-white caricatures, victims, or villians. Only then is it possible, slowly to rebuild.”

Yugoslavia was much less effected by the Soviets and the “iron curtain” than the rest of Eastern Europe. I understand there is even some nostalgia from that era. It would be interesting to read in English about this era. I wonder how much the files of the Yugoslavia secret police were made public and how much is exactly known from that time.

Changing Weather In Belgrade

 

Ocean, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

My daughter and I made a snowman yesterday in the backyard. She was so cute I just had to take a picture. Good thing we did take time to play in the snow, because by Monday morning it was all gone and 12C. There was an amazing rate of evaporation on Sunday afternoon and evening, as all the snow melted and the roads were completely dry. It almost felt like spring today, although I know the cold and snow will come back again.

I spent most of the weekend in Budapest, Hungary on a school basketball trip. The team stayed in a classic, communist era socialist realism style hotel. As you can see below, the hotel in the round style is a bold design. The wood paneling and dark velvet curtains in the dining room as well, give it an “old school” flavor. It was clean and comfortable and we enjoyed the stay. It is located near a park and a big mall so very convenient for us.

The Hotel Budapest

The Beauty of Belgrade

 

Belgrade, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

I snapped this photo last weekend on Kralja Petra Ulica (King Peter Street) of a typical Belgrade apartment. The dilapidated facades of the buildings in Belgrade are part of its charm. Most apartments are quite nice inside, where Belgraders spend their limited money, and the common areas such as the stairways, lobbies, and facades are neglected. They can be a health hazard because of the occasional chunk of cement falling to the sidewalks.

Most of the apartment buildings have a shop on the ground floor and apartments on the upper floors. I wonder what year this building was constructed and what it looked like when it was new. I am also curious about the infrastructure of these buildings, like electrical wiring, water, etc. I would guess that most need updating.

All of the buildings in Belgrade have a story attached to them! I wonder what this building’s story is?

Red Star Wins Again in the ABA

 

Red Star vs. Cedevita, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Sunday night I attended the Adriatic Basketball Association basketball game between Red Star Belgrade and Cedevita from Zagreb. Red Star won easily 90-65 in front of full Pionir Hall. The Red Star basketball fans are not as passionate as the Partizan fans are, but they did get pretty loud in their appreciation of the home team’s stellar performance.

The Adriatic Basketball Association (ABA) is really good and hopefully the future of sports, as culture and economy as well for the former Yugoslav Republics. The professional basketball league has teams from Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Slovenija, and Hungary. The regional league is much better than the soccer leagues in the Balkans, as they are organized by individual country. Pulling teams from a bigger area provides more talent and better basketball. There is little problems with violence or nationalism. It is refreshing to see and I believe in the future, the Balkans and specifically the former Yugoslav Republics will have more cooperation as they have similar cultures, languages, and common needs.

The level of play as I wrote, is quite high. There are quite a few former NCAA (American University) players from Division One programs. These are players that spent some time in the NBA or the NBA development leagues, but were not quite good enough to make it with a team. Being from Michigan, I recognized former Michigan State University center, Goran Suton.

Go Spartans! Former MSU Center and Lansing Everett HS Graduate, Goran Suton.

If you enjoy basketball, I encourage you to go and watch a game. Tickets for the best sections are only 700 RSD, a far cry from the professional sports ticket prices in the USA. It is also nice to see the resurgence of Red Star. They are 12-5 and in second place in the 14-team league.

Happy (Julian) New Year

 

The fireworks above St. Sava’s Cathedral in Belgrade last night signify the Srpska Nova Godina or Serbian New Year. The Serbian Orthodox Church, along with some other Orthodox churches, traditionally celebrates the Julian Calendar New Year, which is 13 days behind the Gregorian Calendar this century. Hence, on January 13th, the Serbs celebrate another New Year with a mass, firework show, and concerts and parties around the city.

I went down to St. Sava’s last night to catch all the fun. I’ll be posting videos later today. I think any excuse to party is cool, and acknowledging Julius Caesar’s (or his team of astronomers) calendar from 45 BC is very interesting. I had a sense of solidarity with the Serbians in attendance. It was a contrast of the holy service occurring inside and the drinking and fireworks occurring outside.

I was excited to use my new iPhone last night to capture video of the event and I will post later today when I get a faster video connection.

 

Hoboken, New Jersey

 

Nadia is pictured above in Hoboken, New Jersey, along the Hudson River, with Manhattan in the background. The main purpose of our visit was to see my sister and the famous, “Cake Boss.”

The city has an interesting history. The name comes from the Old Dutch word for “high cliff” and the first recorded baseball game was played here in 1846. The city was very industrial but has now become “yuppie” with many New Yorkers living there and commuting across to work in Manhattan, like my sister. As you can see, they have a beautiful waterfront with parks and a running/bike trail. They also have quaint little shops and buildings. It was very pleasant.

The kids were excited to see Carlo’s Bakery, site of the TLC reality series, “The Cake Boss.” The popular series in its fourth season and shows the power of television. Each day there are lines of tourists at the shop. The owner, Buddy, makes elaborate cakes and the show follows his family and employees as they make different cakes for a variety of occasions. The guy is making a mint from the show and is opening up stores in NY and NJ and he is renting a factory/warehouse to ship nationally.

Nadia wanted to try his famous cannolis, an Italian dessert. They were delicious, the right combination of lightness and sweetness. We took a bunch of pictures, walked down to the Hudson River and had lunch at a 50’s hamburger place called Johnny Rocket’s. A fine day indeed!

Because of the influx of New Yorkers to Hoboken, it has driven up real estate prices. I couldn’t believe that a one-bedroom apartment goes for around 750,000 USD. Hoboken is part of the New York Metropolitan Area which is a vast urban area of around 22 million people. It is the largest urban zone in the US and rivals the megacities outside the USA.

A cute Ollie on the streets of Hoboken

The Kralovec Family In New York City

I have not had a chance to blog much over the holidays. Too much eating and enjoying family. I am going to do a couple of blog posts on our holidays in the USA.

We spent two days in New York City! It was our first time to the “Big Apple” and we were all amazed at this wonderful metropolis. It lived up to all of my expectations and it is truly an iconic world city that everyone should visit in their lives.

We are shown above freezing in Times Square. The weather was extremely cold and unfortunately, our bag with much of our winter clothes was taken by another passenger on the bus by mistake. We took a bus from Allentown, PA where we were staying to Port Authority. Despite the freezing temperatures, we really enjoyed ourselves.

I was fascinated by the five boroughs and didn’t realize how big the city really was. Brooklyn alone is over 2.5 million people and the boroughs account for close to 8.5 million people. We stayed in Manhattan near Broadway and Fifth Avenue so we really got a flavor of the place. We found an excellent Thai Restaurant called The Pongsri which had the best Thai food I have ever had. We loved it so much we ate their three times.

The view from the bottom of 30 Rockefeller Plaza

New York is also home to the world’s greatest theater district, Broadway. We saw Elf and Spider-Man Turn Off the Dark. I was absolutely blown away by the quality of the sets, costumes, acting, singing, dancing, and live music. Absolutely breath-taking! I could go to a play everyday, although at $60 per ticket minimum, it is a bit pricey. Totally worth it however and with the amount that goes into a performance, I can see why the best theater in the world costs that much. The quality of the actors was something to watch. They never missed a line, and such voices and stage presence!

The Kids Enjoying Elf at the Hirschfeld Theatre

There were so many iconic places featured in movies, television, history, and literature, ranging from the skating rink at 30 Rock, to the UN building, to the Flat Iron Building, and Greenwich Village, the East River, etc. We took an open air bus tour around the island and learned a lot. We also of course, did some shopping on Fifth Avenue. A fatal stop at American Girl, which is a store that induces a frenzy in little girls! Ocean had to find the 1974 edition, “Julie” that looked just like her and she bought a winter outfit for her as well as a dog. I was laughing so hard that little girls could take their dolls to the “hair salon” for a professional styling for $10. They also had a doll cafe and hospital. What a racquet! The Pleasant Company is sitting on a gold mine and the four floors of their flagship store were bustling with people making purchases in the hundreds of dollars.

The classic Manhattan street scene

We only really scratched the surface of the city and there is so much more to explore. It was an overwhelmingly awesome experience that I highly recommend. I leave you with U2 performing the headline song of the musical Spider-man on American Idol, “Rise Above.” I would to thank Cathy and Jack for the bus tickets and hotel stay..

 

The Modern Rome

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We spent the afternoon yesterday touring around Washington DC. This is my second visit to the city and I was really inspired with awe at the architecture and layout of the city. It reminded us of many of the European cities we visit, and that is because the original plans of the city were based on European cities. The parks and grand buildings make me think that it must be like what Rome was at its height of the empire. It is a grand capital and fitting for the American Empire.

It is amazing to see that these institutions we hear of all the time, like the IRS (Internal Revenue Service), the FBI, etc., actually have offices and is a real place. Washington also has so many bike paths and parks and the Potomac Riverfront is beautiful. It is a city that I could definitely live in.

As you can see in the photo above, the city is getting ready for President Obama’s Inauguration Parade coming up next month. There were viewing stands being constructed in front of the White House and the main stage in front of Capital Hill (above). The city also has so many museums and cultural institutions, it would be a great place to live.

I’m in front of the White House

The Founding Fathers really chose well for a capital. I hope to come back for another visit, there is so much to see. I would like to thank our good friend Kim Winter for showing us around the city and inviting us out to her home in Virginia.

Washington Monument

A Special Evening

 

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We had a wonderful Christmas Party on Christmas Eve night. Pennsylvania even had it snow to make it a white Christmas! It was great to be surrounded by new family and friends and eat and drink too much. The kids were so excited and screaming and running around like crazy.

We prepared a traditional Christmas Eve Slovak meal with all the traditions and dishes. The meal featured seven dishes, none of which is meat. We made salmon patties, pirohi, oplotki, lentils, etc. Some of the traditions include putting straw under the table cloth, locking all the doors of the home, and setting an extra place setting at the table.

It was a very special evening for all of us in many ways! Merry Christmas!