Kranjska Gora Fun

As you can see by the look on the faces of the kids, they are having a blast skiing. This makes it all worth it for me. To see their excitement of mastering different runs and techniques. They will never become superstar skiers because we don’t ski often enough, but they are learning how to do it and experience skiing in the Alps.

There were much less people on the mountain yesterday (Monday) and it was much better. With less crowds and noise, it is more enjoyable for everyone.

I still have not gone downhill as my knee is still getting better. I did go for a very long nordic (cross-country) ski yesterday. I absolutely love the sport and wish I could do it more! It is low impact on the joints, refreshing to get out in the snow and cold, and a great work out. I took one of the trails up into the mountains and was alone for most of the morning. It would be great to do this every day.

I am also trying to gauge Slovenians opinions of Serbs. They enjoy listening to my Serbian and they are taken aback by my accent, but they do understand what I am saying. In older people, they seem to get nostalgic. I will definitely ask around today to get more opinions.

The snow keeps falling – it is a winter wonderland with another foot fresh powder on the ground!

Relaxing in the Alps

 

We had a successful day one of our holiday, although a couple of road bumps. It is a real pain to get the kids organized for skiing, with the rental, the ski school, lift passes etc. They did get a few times down the mountain today and we are hoping for some more runs tomorrow.

I took the girls on the cross-country trails which, in my opinion, are so much better than downhill skiing. The crowds, music, lines, “un-athletic people”, etc. really irritate me. I prefer the quiet and open trails of nordic skiing and really appreciate the workout. We did over 6 kilometers for the first afternoon. I hope to do some more tomorrow.

I forgot how stunningly beautiful the Julian Alps are. It is absolutely gorgeous up here and with so much snow, even more so.

Nadia cruises around the Kranjska Gora 1.5 km loop

Morning Veiw

 

Morning Veiw, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Can’t wait to get out there! We are enjoying a short holiday in Slovenija. After a five hour drive yesterday and a big snowball fight with the kids upon arrival, we are ready for the “hell” of dressing the kids for winter and skiing. I am hoping for some cross-country skiing with the wife (if my knee holds out!) It is tough getting old. The boys and Ocean are totally excited and that makes it all worth it!

Čestitam!

nemi and bill, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Čestitam means congratulations in Serbian and last night I celebrated with my friend, the birth of his nephew. In Serbian tradition and medical practice, when a mother goes into labor, the father cannot be in the operating room. In fact, for several days after the birth, only one visitor to the hospital is allowed at a time. This is very different from the US or Latin America where I was in the operating room with my wife.

So what can the father do? In Serbian tradition he throws a raucous party and guests rip a piece of his shirt for good luck and health. A father may go through several shirts in an evening. If any of my readers can tell me the origins of this tradition, why is this done? I guess if you can’t be there, you might as well have a good time and there is no better reason for a party than a birth of a child.

Nemanja in the picture is not actually the father but the uncle, but the party guests got carried away and ripped three of his shirts as well as shirts of his brother-in-law. I had a great time and need to learn some Serbian folk songs. The accordion player was belting out some traditional songs and I recognized many words, “srce” – heart, but I could only dance and not sing like the rest of the party. I wish Americans celebrated like the Serbs do. We don’t get many occasions where everyone is drinking, singing, and dancing with a live accordion player in the apartment! Such a warm feeling of togetherness!

Congratulations to Nemanja and his family! All the best for many more healthy children!

Sava River Bridge

 

Sava River Bridge, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Last night I was running along the Sava and snapped this photo of the stunning bridge at night. The construction continues with the various on and off ramps and they even have a set of stairs for walkers wanting to cross from the river’s edge.

It was a lot of money, but it has made Belgrader’s crossing of the Sava easier and it does provide another “icon” of the city of Belgrade.

Latest Reading: “Iron Curtain: The Crushing of Eastern Europe 1944-1956”

Over the holiday I finished reading Anne Applebaum’s book about the establishment of Soviet control of Eastern Europe. She specifically focuses on East Germany, Poland, and Hungary, and I would have preferred more on Yugoslavia, but they are mentioned. Having lived and traveled extensively throughout the region for the past 5 years, I was really interested in the book. It is quite detailed and some sections are a bit tedious, but mostly it was a fascinating book and answered a bunch of my questions on the communist era. When seeing the communist era buildings here today, I always say “what were they thinking?” This book answers some of that question and more. I highly recommend anyone interested in Eastern Europe to read this book!

I feel sorry for the countries of Eastern Europe and what they went through from World War II until today. The Nazis considered the Slavs to be “subhuman” not much better than Jews, and they suffered from German occupation greatly. They did many inhuman things to the Slavs and other groups of Eastern Europe because of this mindset. Yugoslavia alone lost 10 percent of their population during World War II. The destruction of their society and infrastructure greatly traumatized the people of Eastern Europe,

For Western Europe, post-World War II was a time of healing and rebuilding. My father was stationed in Stuttgart, West Germany as part of the Marshall Plan in the 1950’s and help rebuild the German economy. In contrast, Eastern Europe, instead, was occupied by the Russians and suffered further. War reparations were harsh and much property, both public and private, that the Nazis hadn’t confiscated already, was shipped to USSR.

The Soviets also took over every aspect of these nations’ lives and I can see how hated they could be. Massacres, imprisonment, brainwashing, were some of the tactics the Soviets used to take control of these countries. The book goes into great detail describing the local Quisling leaders, most who were trained at the Comintern, the Russian’s international school of communism. Applebaum also discussed the secret police, including the AVO in Hungary. I want to visit their ex-headquarters in Budapest, 60 Andrassy Street, which I think is now a museum.

The communists used violence to suppress the already traumatized population. Appplebaum has a chapter on the preemptive arrests, where even teen members of groups like the boy scouts, were arrested, tortured, and killed. I also now understand why the Polish plane crash was so emotional a couple of years ago. The murder of the Polish White Army by the Soviets was intense. This coming after years of resistance fighting against the Nazis. The Nazis had planned to destroy Polish civilization and turn the Poles into an illiterate work force. After the Nazis left, the massacres of Poles by the Ukrainians and Russians continued. This also includes the Polish Jews who were basically wiped out. I also didn’t know that the city of Vilnius, and a big part of the country was lost to the Soviets after World War II. With the loss of land, over 1.5 million Poles were displaced. What a sad history of Poland!

I also learned that Winston Churchill coined the phrase “Iron Curtain” in a letter to US President, Harry Truman.

In looking back at the communist era, there were some good things. The community spirit raised by events like the youth festivals are lacking in today’s societies. I also learned from the book that poor and disadvantaged people had an easier time in the communist system raising their standard of living.

However, there were more bad parts of communism. The ruling elite had a life of privilege, the shortages of consumer items, lack of freedoms, repression of culture and religion, etc. not mentioning the repressive violence to keep the system in place, were not worth it.The effects are still being felt today. The education system formed by the communists was based on the writings of Russian theorist, Anton Makarenko, who favored peer pressure, repetition, and indoctrination. The schools are still trying to modernize. The Communists owned everything, so the process of privatizing thousands of companies and sorting out the land titles of private property, are fraught with corruption.

The book ends with a great piece that I will copy here

“…everywhere else int eh post communist and the post-totalitarian world. Before a nation can be rebuilt, its citizens need to understand how it was destroyed in the first place: how its institutions were undermined, how its language was twisted, how its people were manipulated. They need to know particular details, not general theories, and they need to hear individual stories, not generalizations about the masses. They need a better grasp of what motivated their predecessors, to see them as real people and not as black-and-white caricatures, victims, or villians. Only then is it possible, slowly to rebuild.”

Yugoslavia was much less effected by the Soviets and the “iron curtain” than the rest of Eastern Europe. I understand there is even some nostalgia from that era. It would be interesting to read in English about this era. I wonder how much the files of the Yugoslavia secret police were made public and how much is exactly known from that time.

Changing Weather In Belgrade

 

Ocean, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

My daughter and I made a snowman yesterday in the backyard. She was so cute I just had to take a picture. Good thing we did take time to play in the snow, because by Monday morning it was all gone and 12C. There was an amazing rate of evaporation on Sunday afternoon and evening, as all the snow melted and the roads were completely dry. It almost felt like spring today, although I know the cold and snow will come back again.

I spent most of the weekend in Budapest, Hungary on a school basketball trip. The team stayed in a classic, communist era socialist realism style hotel. As you can see below, the hotel in the round style is a bold design. The wood paneling and dark velvet curtains in the dining room as well, give it an “old school” flavor. It was clean and comfortable and we enjoyed the stay. It is located near a park and a big mall so very convenient for us.

The Hotel Budapest

The Beauty of Belgrade

 

Belgrade, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

I snapped this photo last weekend on Kralja Petra Ulica (King Peter Street) of a typical Belgrade apartment. The dilapidated facades of the buildings in Belgrade are part of its charm. Most apartments are quite nice inside, where Belgraders spend their limited money, and the common areas such as the stairways, lobbies, and facades are neglected. They can be a health hazard because of the occasional chunk of cement falling to the sidewalks.

Most of the apartment buildings have a shop on the ground floor and apartments on the upper floors. I wonder what year this building was constructed and what it looked like when it was new. I am also curious about the infrastructure of these buildings, like electrical wiring, water, etc. I would guess that most need updating.

All of the buildings in Belgrade have a story attached to them! I wonder what this building’s story is?

Red Star Wins Again in the ABA

 

Red Star vs. Cedevita, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Sunday night I attended the Adriatic Basketball Association basketball game between Red Star Belgrade and Cedevita from Zagreb. Red Star won easily 90-65 in front of full Pionir Hall. The Red Star basketball fans are not as passionate as the Partizan fans are, but they did get pretty loud in their appreciation of the home team’s stellar performance.

The Adriatic Basketball Association (ABA) is really good and hopefully the future of sports, as culture and economy as well for the former Yugoslav Republics. The professional basketball league has teams from Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia, Macedonia, Montenegro, Slovenija, and Hungary. The regional league is much better than the soccer leagues in the Balkans, as they are organized by individual country. Pulling teams from a bigger area provides more talent and better basketball. There is little problems with violence or nationalism. It is refreshing to see and I believe in the future, the Balkans and specifically the former Yugoslav Republics will have more cooperation as they have similar cultures, languages, and common needs.

The level of play as I wrote, is quite high. There are quite a few former NCAA (American University) players from Division One programs. These are players that spent some time in the NBA or the NBA development leagues, but were not quite good enough to make it with a team. Being from Michigan, I recognized former Michigan State University center, Goran Suton.

Go Spartans! Former MSU Center and Lansing Everett HS Graduate, Goran Suton.

If you enjoy basketball, I encourage you to go and watch a game. Tickets for the best sections are only 700 RSD, a far cry from the professional sports ticket prices in the USA. It is also nice to see the resurgence of Red Star. They are 12-5 and in second place in the 14-team league.

Happy (Julian) New Year

 

The fireworks above St. Sava’s Cathedral in Belgrade last night signify the Srpska Nova Godina or Serbian New Year. The Serbian Orthodox Church, along with some other Orthodox churches, traditionally celebrates the Julian Calendar New Year, which is 13 days behind the Gregorian Calendar this century. Hence, on January 13th, the Serbs celebrate another New Year with a mass, firework show, and concerts and parties around the city.

I went down to St. Sava’s last night to catch all the fun. I’ll be posting videos later today. I think any excuse to party is cool, and acknowledging Julius Caesar’s (or his team of astronomers) calendar from 45 BC is very interesting. I had a sense of solidarity with the Serbians in attendance. It was a contrast of the holy service occurring inside and the drinking and fireworks occurring outside.

I was excited to use my new iPhone last night to capture video of the event and I will post later today when I get a faster video connection.