Morning Jog Along the Sava

Romany Children Playing, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Yesterday morning I went with Ocean in the jogging stroller. The weather cooled down considerably from Saturday, which must have been 35 C or in the 90’s F. A storm came in Saturday evening and Sunday was overcast and cool for most of the day. We saw these gypsy children playing on the banks of the Sava. It shows the pollution in the Sava River. There are several gypsy families that live in makeshift homes underneath the New Railroad Bridge, near the railroad tracks below. They are squatters as the rail yard is kind of a no-man’s land.

Hauling In a Silver Carp
Hauling In a Silver Carp

We also watched several fishermen catching, I believe, is the Silver Carp. I can’t remember the word they said in Serbian for the fish. But by the manner they were catching it, I am pretty sure it is a carp. The carp is a filter feeder, so they use a ball of dough or corn meal surrounding a group of hooks. The carp bump against the ball to knock loose the grains and will eat them as the fall to the bottom. As the carp bump against the bait, the fishermen jerk the line quickly and hook them on their bellies. We watched them haul up two pretty good size carp this way. The hooks were near the tail, and not in the mouth. They had probably 10 each. I would never eat a filter feeder like the carp taken from the Sava. I imagine the toxin buildup in the flesh of the fish.

Old Apartment Buildings Along the Sava
Old Apartment Buildings Along the Sava

One sees buildings in Belgrade in desperate need for renovations. Inside, the individual apartments are quite nice, but many facades and public areas in buildings are deteriorated. I guess it is because of a lack of money and this is something one rarely sees in Western Europe.

“They Would Never Hurt A Fly: War Criminals On Trial in the Hague”

I finished reading the book earlier this summer, “They Would Never Hurt A Fly: War Criminals on Trial in the Hague” by Croatian auther, Slavenka Drakulić. I couldn’t put it down and the ideas presented stayed with me the past few weeks. I was reminded about the book last night when we watched the film, “The Reader” an account of a German war crimes trial from WWII.

One of the reasons that I came to Serbia was to understand why war broke out when Yugoslavia separated into its constituent republics. This was a war that occurred in the 1990’s and in Europe and I couldn’t fathom how. While it was going on, I was fresh out of university and working in my first international school in Colombia. I remember seeing the reports on the news and I remember when the Dayton Accords were announced. I was thinking, why Dayton, Ohio? I also vaguely remember the bombing of Serbia in 1999 by NATO and seeing the shocking images of refugees. But even though I was interested in foreign affairs, I was busy with falling in love and getting my career going.

What first piqued my interest in the Balkans was the book by Robert Kaplan, “Balkan Ghosts.” The American travel writer married a Greek woman and traveled through here. He mixed history with descriptions of recent events and his own adventures of traveling. I should read that book again now that I have lived here for over a year. When I saw the job opening here in Belgrade, I sent in my application, partly based on my interest in the region.

The war started in 1991 and finally ended in 1999. The worst of the war occurred in Bosnia and Croatia and was ended by the Dayton Accords of 1995. The separation of Kosovo led to NATO intervention in 1999, and what might be the end of it finally, the declaration of independence of Kosovo. I have read accounts of the war ranging from National Geographic to Misha Glenny’s “The Fall of Yugoslavia” which I previously blogged about. All of these works were beneficial to give me background on the “what” of the war. They touched on the “why” and “how” of the war, but the book by Drakulic, really focused on the last two questions.

She travels to the Hague where the International Criminal Tribunal for the former Yugoslavia (ICTY) is convened to get to know and tell the stories of the individuals on trial. It is a personal account, and she weaves her family stories in with the stories of people in front of the tribunal. I loved the book because it delved deeply into how normal people, when put in extraordinary environments, could do horrible things they would not normally do.

The war was messy, and as I think about it, most wars are. I mean “messy” in the sense that the front lines were the cities and villages filled with civilians and not battles in remote areas involving only soldiers. Villages were ripped apart because they were ethnically mixed and people fled or were killed based on their ethnicity. I couldn’t understand why, after years of living together peacefully, that such an intense civil and ethnic war could break out. I now understand that it was a combination of media manipulation, selfish and disastrous leadership, ignorant villagers, bad luck, history, and the uncertainty of what came after Tito and communism. As I read and hear more individual stories, I think I’ll get a better understanding. The stories are tragic from all sides and the book is a sad and terrifying read. I recommend it to all who want to learn more about the break up of Yugoslavia.

I would like to note that the purpose of this blog post is to assist me in processing my reading of the book. I want to learn as much as I can about Serbia. The more I know, the more I get out of the experience of living here. I do this in all of the places I live in my career in international education. This post is not an opinion of validity of the ICTY or a judgment of who was right or wrong in the war. I do believe that every country in the Balkans needs to document what happened better and so some conclusions can be drawn and to prevent this happening again. It will also help future generations of Serbs, Croats, and Bosniaks, as they enter this era of globalization.

Drakulic writes that the ICTY could have prosecuted 15,000 – 20,000 people. That is a staggering figure. I would like to know more about who they decide to prosecute and why. Below is a listing of the people she chose to write about.

  • Milan Levar – A Croatian war veteran from Gospić, Croatia that was murdered after he testified at the Hague. She describes the trial involving the leaders of that small town.
  • Three Bosnian Serbs from Foča, Republika Srpska that were found guilty torture and mass rape.
  • Goran Jeselić, a Bosnian Serb found guilty of executing prisoners at a detention camp in Brčko, Bosnia.
  • Radislav Krstić, a general in the Bosnian Serb army found guilty of participating in the siege on Srebrenica, Bosnia.
  • Dražen Erdemović, a Serb-Croat soldier from Tuzla, Bosnia.
  • Slobodan Milosević and his wife Mirjana Marković, former President of and First Lady of Yugoslavia.
  • General Ratko Mladić, leader of the Bosnian Serb army.
  • Biljana Plavšić, a female politician, high up in the Republika Srpska government.

She wrote several other books about life here and several novels about the war. I will be looking to read some in the future. Below are some links to other reviews of the book. Here are some other reviews of the book.

New Belgrade Flea Market

New Belgrade Flea Market, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Update: August 31, 2009  Here is an article about the possible move of IKEA to Belgrade. (courtesy of the Balkan Insight)

My son Oliver is above checking out bathroom fixtures at the New Belgrade Flea Market (Buvljak – in Serbian). I needed a new plug on an extension cord I use to mow the lawn with my electric lawnmower. I found the plug and the guy connected it to my cord for 300 RSD ($4.50).I also saw some small soccer goals I’m thinking of purchasing for the school.

The place has everything, literally everything. From Nike shoes, to fans, from pirated DVDs to ladders. It is a huge open market with narrow stalls. The flea market is located in New Belgrade, just down from the Delta City mall. It is always busy and there is a variety of people there. Everyone is pretty friendly and we’ve never had a problem there. Nadia found a booth selling IKEA products. IKEA is one of her favorite stores and the nearest outlet is in Budapest, 5 hours away.

In front of the flea market is an unofficial flea market. It is filled with gypsies selling junk they find in the dumpsters around the city. I’ll take some photos there the next time we go.

2009-2010 School Year Begins

We stopped for a family photo earlier this week on our front steps. This week we began school. Owen is a first-grader and will turn 7 years old this year. I can’t believe it! Oliver is in Pre-Kinder Age 4. Ocean turns two next month and is still at home with the nanny, but she had her back pack too. Nadia is teaching kindergarten again, and I return for my second year as the Secondary Principal.

We look forward to a year of teaching and learning.

Serbia Versus France

 

I photographed this sign close to my house. It is in the Cyrillic script and reads in the Serbian Latin script, “Srce Na Teren” which in English translates to “Leave Your Heart On the Field.” I guess some other rough English translations would be to “Give 100%” “Do or Die” “There is No Tomorrow”. They are all sport cliches refering to the big World Cup Qualifying match that will occur September 9, 2009 (09.09.09).

Serbia leads the Group 7 European Qualifying for next summer’s World Cup in South Africa. They have a five point advantage over second place, and group favorite France. France has an extra game to play on September 5, hosting Romania. If they win, they will then come into the Serbia game only 2 points behind. After playing Serbia, France has only to host the tiny Faroe Islands and Austria in October when group play completes. Serbia has a bit tougher after France, hosting Romania and then traveling to Lithuania. So it looks like the September 9th game will decide the group winner. 

Serbia lost to France 1-2 back in September of last year. This is their only loss and they have been impressive, winning in Romania and Austria. France has stumbled twice, losing in Vienna and a draw in Romania. It will be a fantastic match. The team finishing second place in the group will have to play a second place team in another group to qualify for South Africa. I’ll definitely be blogging the game live. 

I have previously blogged about the Serbian soccer team here, and our near death experience here.

September 9th Update: I watched the game from my home. I had the High School Open House at my school the same night as the game. I got home in time to watch it. I saw the Serbian penalty goal. It didn’t look like much of a foul, but the ref had to call it. I think the red card was a bit excessive. Great penalty kick, however, and Serbia was up 1-0. France came back to equalize on a good goal by veteran Henry. I had to put my daughter to bed at halftime and missed the second half. I watched the highlights immediately after the game. Serbia hit the crossbar on one good attempt but couldn’t get another goal. 

I think they played well and with a tie, it makes next month’s game (Serbia hosting on Saturday October 10) with Romania huge. They are still four points clear of France, but with France hosting the Faroe Islands in the next round, they can expect France to get three points. A win at home against Romania would clinch a spot in South Africa. Another tie, and it will come down to the last game on Wednesday October 14. Serbia goes to Lithuania and France hosts Austria. 

Serbia controls their own destiny and I would like to see them beat Romania to earn their place in the World Cup this summer! 


 

Warm Summer Nights

 

The weather the past couple of days has been wonderful. Blue skies, cool breezes, and plenty of green and sunshine. Ollie and I took advantage of the warm night last night, one never knows how many are left!  We rode down to Ada Ciganlija and went swimming. There were lots of people enjoying the “Belgrade Sea.”

On the way back, I snapped a nice photo below of the New Railroad Bridge (Novi Železnički Most). The bridge is visible from our house in Senjak. There were some people fishing with glow in the dark bobbers.

New RAilroad Bridge - Belgrade, Serbia
New RAilroad Bridge - Belgrade, Serbia

Ocean – Such a Girl!

 


Ocean is certainly not a “tomboy” as she likes feminine things like shoes, dresses, hair clips, etc. I am not saying she isn’t tough, she can handle anything having two older brothers. She is just so cute. Last night I did an experiment with her. I usually lay down with her in bed to get her to fall asleep. Last night, the boys were making noise so she kept getting up and walking out of the room. I finally resorted to fake crying everytime she left. Every single time, she came back and tried to sooth me with a hug, caress, or kiss. Only a girl would do that as I know Ollie and Owen wouldn’t try to soothe me.

We have been extremely busy with the start of school. I am putting in long days dealing with scheduling, photo copiers, etc. I am especially busy as we are changing software for administration of the school and they need to know everything.

Will blog more once things calm down and school is off and running.

Cruising the Sava and Danube

 

Last night as part of the Teacher Orientation we took a cruise on the Sava and Danube rivers to get some nice views of the city. The kids had a ball, as you can see above!

It was the first time I was on a boat here in Belgrade. The Danube smelled a bit from the pollution (smrdi monogo) “smells really bad” but the sunset and breeze was nice. Nadia had a lot of laughs were the ladies in the business office. It is nice to do the tourist activities in your own city. 

 

Kalemegdan Fortress At Night
Kalemegdan Fortress At Night

Waterfront Property – Belgrade Style

 

Summer Cottages, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Having been involved in the real estate market in Michigan several years ago, I became aware of the idea of “waterfront” property. In Michigan, homes on a body of water like a lake or river, are much more expensive than homes not on the water.

Here in Belgrade, real estate in the city is very expensive. Apartments in the city go for 3,000 euros per square meter. Real estate in my neighborhod is even more expensive, as Senjak and Dedinje are “leafy” suburbs away and it looks like I live in a forest here, but only minutes from downtown. I don’t understand how Belgraders with such low average salaries, can afford apartments. I know many people who live with their parents. Also, many buy property or apartments in the outer suburbs which is much more reasonable. Country property is even cheaper, and I’ve been thinking of getting a piece of land in the country side.

Well, this weekend I snapped a photo across the Sava at these cottages. They are located on an island in the Sava River called “Ada Međica.” The funny đ has the sound of a j in Serbian. Ada Međica is a forested, 1 kilometer long, 200 meter wide island. There is no electricity and access is by boat only. The cottages either float or are built on stilts as the Sava in spring rises greatly. They are mostly owned by Belgraders who use them in the summer and on weekends. These cottages are found on the larger Ada Ciganlija and scattered on the banks of the Danube, although it is mostly forested.

My friend, whose wife’s business partner owns one of these, said they go for $7,000 – $15,000. On this particular island, the lone year-round resident, lets out the ropes on the cottages so they can float higher as the waters rise in the spring.

I think it would be great to have access to one. It would be fun to have a little motor boat and kayak and tool around the rivers. The Sava and Danube both intersect Belgrade and meet at the fortress. Lots of people have boats in Belgrade, most of them very modest, little boats. I can see in the future as Belgrade becomes more affluent and European, that will change to luxury yachts, but I hope not.

 

Our View from the Restaurant - The end of Ada Međica
Our View from the Restaurant - The end of Ada Međica

“Beating the Heat” Weekend Family Journal

 

Ocean, originally uploaded by bill kralovec.

Ocean is shown above at the beach across from Ada Ciganlija. Ada has been called the “Belgrade Sea” and there were thousands of people Sunday swimming. It was a sunny, warm weekend and we enjoyed some traditional summer activities. Nadia and I are very happy to enjoy the four seasons once again after so many years in the tropics.

 

Ocean Loves to Show Off Her New Outfits
Ocean Loves to Show Off Her New Outfits

 

 

Ocean loves the water, probably the most of the three kids. Belgraders love the outdoors and are not very self-concious of their bodies, as there were all sorts of humanity on display. Nadia and I love to see women walking away from the beach to the bus stop in their bikini – it harkens back to 1973 in the USA. Women just don’t do that anymore in the USA.

We also went shopping on Saturday to the commissary at the Embassy, Mercatur, etc. I took a long nap on Saturday also. Owen and I went for a bike ride along the Sava. Sad to see so much garbage.

 

Wildman Oliver at Adas Beach
Wildman Oliver at Ada's Beach

 

 

The Kralovec family is also following with great interest, the World Championship Track and Field meet in Berlin this week. Usain Bolt was amazing last night with 9.58 in the 100 m. He looked like he was going for a jog in the park. I also can’t believe how loose he is in the starting blocks. He was joking around with his teammate, hamming it up for the camera. Then on the world’s most important race for the year, just like the final in Beijing, he sets the world record. He can even go faster! I can’t wait to see him in the 200 meters. Serbia has 5 athletes that qualified, their best chance for a medal is in today’s triple jump. 

 

Bolt Checks His Time As Tyrone Gay (USA) Comes in Second At 9.71
Bolt Checks His Time As Tyrone Gay (USA) Comes in Second At 9.71